skunkriv

Was thinking the same thing as Jr. My high school machine shop teacher would say just that and I have no doubt he could have done it. Of course the lathe would need to cut threads to do that but I would be happy to find this little Hardinge in my shop.

G'day toad and welcome to iforgeiron.

The wrench should always be oriented so the 3' cheater you are jumping on has some room to swing Fixed jaw away. The reason why is easy to remember and see if you picture a loosely adjusted wrench. Each jaw is only making contact with the hex in one spot. With fixed jaw away the force is being exerted at the base of the movable jaw, exerting less leverage against the jaw (and its corresponding groove in the handle) than if the direction was reversed and the force is being exerted at the outer end of the movable jaw. The above also applies to metric crescent wrenches and fit-alls.

I hope everyone reads the above. This should be a sticky or chiseled in stone around here somewhere. This is why when newer smiths ask "where can I find a blower?" the responses always include vacuum cleaners and clothes drier blowers in addition to commercial models. These blowers will provide the pressure necessary to have and maintain a good fire. The conditions in a fire you just started will immediately begin to change as ash, clinker, gooey green coal and coke are formed. Your blower needs to be capable of blowing through 8" of that mess, not just a freshly made fire. You need the pressure provided by a veined (like a vacuum cleaner) or a paddle type fan and you need the excess capacity in that and cfm to make your forge perform.

Bummer. Just got her going too. Looks like that crack has been there awhile as you say. "would have been interesting"...that is quite an understatement LOL :D

Thanks Matt. The more hammers I have measurements from the better. This is a work in progress and I have plenty of time before ordering a spring. Still have the old one also.

Thank you John. That will be a big help if you could please. I wonder where the new spring was purchased.

Received the above, text included, in an email two days ago. Very timely :D

After going through a virus attack, losing a hard drive, fighting off hackers, upgrading all my software, installing fire-walls, being threatened with being cut-off by my email provider, and a host of other problems... I have fixed my computer...and NOW it works exactly the way I want it to!

Moloch, Mayer (not Mayer Brothers), or Murco. Would like to know the installed length of the spring on this hammer. Hammer at rest with the toggle arms at or very near horizontal. Also the gap distance between coils as installed. Sid at Little Giant says people have been using 100 lb LG springs to replace Moloch springs but the ID on the LG springs is larger than the stock Moloch spring. I am trying to spec/order the right size spring from a manufacturer.

I push GO button, make pretty pictures, push more buttons get more pictures :D

Think of how tall your "nut" would be to even get two full turns. The load on this one thread would be massive. The thread would crush or gall, depending on how good of steel was used and heat treatment. Flypresses are just one of those things you gotta save up for. Buy new or be prepared to jump on a good deal on a used one when it comes by.

We can forgive the blur if you were laughing. Hope it wasn't because you were tearing through there at a reckless 19 or 20 mph :D

I have quenched things in my beeswax/linseed oil mix a few times when I have been away from the shop and was afraid to use water. I was at a rendezvous one time and a guy wanted me to reharden the frizzen on his flinchlock because it was too soft and not working well for him. I hardened it in the wax. Don't know what the steel in that thing was but it was still too hard to spark right even after I drew it back to bronze, purple, and then back to blue TWICE. Ended up drawing it past blue and worked great. He went away a happy camper.

Just knew I was missing something LOL. I'll wait :D

Not sure about this answer but it would be close enough to "exact" for me. Fill can full. Empty half of the water out by tilting the can to 45 deg. Mark the half full mark Eyeball and mark halfway between the bottom and the half full mark Fill to that mark

Take the goose across, return Take the corn across, return carrying the goose Take the fox across, return Take the goose across Could save a trip if you turned the corn into moonshine first LOL

As drawn I think it will work...once. Assuming a heavy enough flywheel to get any work done I think the axle will bend. Could move the supports in near the cam though. Interesting.

I know a man in Indiana that used to forge hooks like that and that big. Should make a great anvil and even after you get a real anvil the different shapes and radiususses will still come in handy. Besides that you need some neat things like that just layin around to keep the neighbors thinkin' :D

No. You are changing the radius of the blade so you are not making a full cut. As soon as you are making a full cut you change the blade again.

When cutting heavy stock with a chop saw it helps if you alternate between a new blade and a much smaller, worn one. As soon as the blade is making full contact change to the other blade until it is making full contact. Repeat, repeat. I have done this cutting sledges and also cutting the radiused face off of stock LG power hammer dies to make flat dies.

Well shoot...I was hoping you had found a wad of $100 bills jammed in at the back of the screw :D

Looks great James. I also can do "rustic" when called upon to do so :D