cavala

I was looking for a job and it looked cool. I'm lucky I guess started with gas forges and power hammers.

I know a scrap steel guy in Livingston parish that could help you. I'll try and find his contact info and get back to ya.

Should be anealed first.

You're talking about a BLEVE and I don't think he's going to reach the boiling point with that setup.

You're right it's not the same thing chrome is far more worse for you. I know you're not stupid. I never knew about fume fever until I got real sick with flu like symptoms, doc asked what I'd been doing and bingo, it's achey and miserable. That's why we got fume extractors and such. Like I said ventilate and you'll be fine.

Have you ever had fume sickness? Vapors is what comes off chemicals fumes are little particles of heavy metals. When you burn cut weld you put off fumes you breathe them in you ingest heavy metals. That's why welding on galvanized is so bad. Chrome is the same way. I'm sure in a forge the harmful fumes are still present but with proppet ventilation it may not be an issue.

I agree 100%. I was able to learn MIG welding because it is so easy, even a caveman could do it. The beauty of having a torch set for your first welding setup is that you need it anyway. How much stuff are you going to build with just an electric welder?

Have you guys tried winding a piece of string around a piece of tubing and tie a pencil to it unwrap and there you go perfect spiral. Not a golden spiral but it works. Also french curve sets are useful.

You'd need an oxy/fuel kit for brazing and silver solder. Now with a propane torch you could use just solder. Flux the part heat till the flux is boiling then solder.

I've had some Experiance in drilling into slate and other Stones and tile. They make drill bits just for stuff like that, they will even bore through glass. They have a triangular head and no flutes, slow speed and not much force. I think their made for tile and you know that stuffs brittle. I wouldn't trust a masonry bit on it. As for mounting go for the toggles mentioned earlier you'd be amazed how much those things can hold.

Build your table and work off the clean edges till you get a torch kit. Abrasives are messy and loud, it would take forever. I bet you could find a torch kit for a 100 bucks on craigs and bottle rentals cheap. You'd be done in less than five minutes. Call a guy with a weld truck and your looking at 50 to 75 bucks for 5 minutes of work.

Have you tried YouTube, I've seen quit a few on there.

Thats fun Scored a 7.21 in 143.5. I've always been a half a bubble out of plumb anyway.

I've actually found that when cutting out drip pans with a hole saw to slightly shim up one side of the plate. Less teeth cutting at a time. Obviously the higher you shim it the more oval your part will be, and of course speed and lube as said. Oh and a bench top sheer works well also . Btw do a search for fender washers, they are large OD washers with a small ID.

I have geckos running around wich is not normal for Nashville. The first I took home for my step son thinking it was an escaped pet but since then I've seen several all different sizes. They scatter when I turn off the lights. I also keep a 4.5' tegu, its like a south American monitor lizard. He out grew our apt. So my wife asked (made me) move him to the shop. Clients get a kick out of him.

If you're good with a torch and you obviously have one, I'd burn it out and then file it true. It would no time then move on. You could have a machine shop broach it for you, or make your own http://www.sherline.com/tip20.htm . Im pretty sure it could work I've just never done anything that size and thick.

What is the the riddle of steel.

We are not allowed cameras on site for security issues but I'll bring one home tonight and see about posting some pics

I've recently been repairing core barrels, welding on new pockets and hard facing. Well there are a bunch of wore out teeth just laying around and was wondering if anyone knows anything about them and good uses for them. Someone said they are carbide steel but I don't know.

Im not really sure its a big deal. They are not selling your photo or profiting from your artistic property, they are merely using it to describe their product, that is coke. They should have taken their own picture, but its too easy to find stock photos. Ask them to put a disclaimer

Anvilfire.com. Junk yard hammer page http://anvilfire.com/power/ beat me to it Sam. I saw you had toyed with this idea in the past, did you ever make any progress.

This subject has come up several times, so I did the work for you.The drawings are thanks to Frosty who pointed them out on another thread . http://www.google.com/patents?id=lF5kAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&dq=patent+707246&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=2#v=onepage&q=patent%20707246&f=false. I don't know if there to scale and didn't read any of the text but it doesn't look that complicated. like I said the subject comes up allot and I haven't seen any follow through. I hope you go for it and share all your findings. Btw I read somewhere I guy named Mark Krause wrote a manual on building self contained hammers I don't know if their still available.

It seems koa wool is the common in forge lining. My forge is lined with it and I have no problems with it but would castolite or other refractories work on ther own. I've been experimenting with making some refractories. There is a ceramic place near my shop and fire clay, alumina and all that stuff is fairly cheap in comparison to koa wool.

The pickle I use for copper will plate steel. Its ph down for pools. The copper plating was an unexpected surprise and bonus.

I think you're prolly right. I had know problem wiring my welder wich is in 220, and it's the same size breaker I put the plug on, way too much power. Oops, Thanks for the help, I'm usually pretty good if I get pointed in the right direction. It's no problem to pop in the correct sized breaker and get rolling again.