njanvilman

Buying through EBAY is OK, despite what some people thiink. EBAY/UK has lots of anvils, cheap compared to the states. And if you can retrieve the anvil yourself, you will save on the shipping costs. I have bought many here in the states, and the shipping cost is added into the cost of the anvil. I have never had a problem with any anvil bought that way. A nice old style anvil would fit the "look" too, if you plan on ever doing demos.

Your anvil is from 1902. The 85 means it was about 85 lb when forged. Made in Ohio.

Got any photos?

I have never seen any Fisher anvils dated 1943 - 1948, or any dated 1952 to 1961. I suspect this anvil and several that I have that have similar markings are from these years. If anyone has a Fisher dated during these years, please post a photo and include the date mark.

Do you have any photos of your anvil you could post?

Your anvil does have the short factory radius on the edge. Nice anvil. Is there a date or code under the heel?

No gov't markings. It was saved from scrap by an Air Force serviceman 8 years ago in its original crate. Too bad the crate was lost over time. It was never used or unpacked before the gentlemen saved it from the scrap bin.

Newest addition to the Fisher & Norris Factory Museum: 100 lb Fisher/Crossley anvil, made in 1978. 100 point anvil. It has never been used. US military surplus. There is still some of the cosmoline grease on it. This anvil has the mounting lugs on the ends of the legs, a change made on 100 lb anvils in the late 1970's. Crossley ended anvil production at the end of 1979.

The moldmakers job probably depended on getting the mold right, and turning out a good product. Defective anvils cost the company money in lost production or a defective product being returned.

My research has led to these marks being codes used in the factory for quality control. Indicated the moldmaker, who was responsible for the mold prep, and possible the pour number.

That serial # is from 1902, as per AIA.

That serial # puts it at 1899, if it is a Trenton brand. The 128 should be a weight in lb. If it is a Hay Budden, the serial number puts it at 1918. All according to AIA.

Another 700 lb Fisher came home from Quad States with me. It is the one on the left. It is next to another 700 on loan from a friend. There are now three 700 lb Fishers in the museum, and a total of 15 Fisher anvils 500 lb or greater. All three of the 700 lb anvils were made from the same wood pattern, with about 50 years between the earliest and latest. If anyone is ever near Central NJ, contact me to arrange a visit and tour.

Fisher was one of several companies over the years that made these anvils for the Blacker Hammer. The Fisher versions weigh just under 500 lbs. I have two in the Fisher & Norris Factory Museum here in central NJ, and the weights on both is about 485 lb. While intended for use with the power hammer, many people have repurposed them for general smithing. The only factors that make this a small challenge is the very thick heel area, and getting use to the notch. And at almost 500 lb, moving the anvil. Some Fisher Blacker hammers also had a serial number stamped in, usually to the left of the notch. If your has one, could you post a photo. I am trying to make sense of these numbers. You anvil was made in 1930 in Trenton, NJ. The dating was for their one year warranty. Fisher made these in the 1920's and early 1930's. The picture attached shows the complete Eagle logo, along with the bronze stamp used to make it in the mold. This stamp was probably used to make the logo on your anvil too. Depending where you are in NE Pa, you might want to take a ride down to the Fisher & Norris Factory Museum. I am about 100 miles south of Milford, Pa, near 07710 zip. It is an easy Sunday morning drive. Contact me here or at njanvilman@gmail.com. I am also on Facebook under Fisher & Norris Factory Museum.

Green/Mengle were not there this year. Last time I spoke to them, they indicated that they were getting out of the anvil business. It was not suprising that they were not there. Demos were well attended, but I felt bad for the demonstrators having to do their thing in that heat. The only possible meet larger might be an ABANA conference, but costlier, and one never knows who will show up. I guess a lot depends on location, time of the year, and costs. Someone else could chime in about the MOB events, and some of the other large affiliate group meetings. SOFA QS definately is in the correct location for many to attend from all over the country. And the price is right.

Many of us missed you Jim. I expecially missed our talks. But I know about family priorities. Many of us with long travel distances have never seen QS on Sunday. I know I did lots of bargain selling on Saturday Afternoon. Biggest bummer of this year: The HEAT! No fun being there for 4 consecutive 90+ degree days. I do think that 2017 will be the last time I bring my trailer. If it does not fit on the truck, it stays home. I did pick up a Fisher anvil on the way out, took delivery of the 700 lber on Tuesday, and bought or traded for 6 more. Plus a few other goodies. I sold a few heavy pieces, but definately went home heavier on Sunday. My truck was very thirsty climbing the hills on Rt 80 in Pennsylvania.

We will give you a full report with pictures. Your spirit will be there.

Without photos of the anvil in the plant, or clear markings, it is all Hearsay. I was once offered an anvil supposedly out of the Wright aircraft plant. Show me the proof. They only had their stories. So who want to visit to see George Washingtons's anvil? I will find one of my colonials and stamp GW into it!

Vendors begin showing up on Wednesday, more on Thursday, and mostly full by Friday. Bring more cash than you think you will need. You will find lots of stuff you will want. You will be amazed at the variety and quantity of tools and other stuff available. Stop by my set up hopefully near the main intersection and introduce yourself. Look for the sign for the Fisher & Norris Factory Museum.

I would go the Boiled Linseed Oil route before painting anyday. I do not like painted anvils. As to the working surface, just take an old towel and use motor oil to make it oily, then lay that over the anvil whenever it is not in use. Fisher anvils were like Ford Model T's...you could have any color as long as it was black. That is the only color they ever used at the factory.

311 I will post some photos of a Maine made Fisher tomorrow. They generally had a better finish, and usually had the weight stamped in on the upper left side, right where all of the chipping is. Use the anvil for a while. I think you will find it needs no other work. The steel faceplate is only about 1/4" thick, and you do not want to reduce this more than it already is from years of work. I am sure a nice pine log under the anvil will work fine. If the log is inside, I am sure that it will last. And so what if you have to replace it every decade? Cut the log and mount the anvil. Just strip the bark off. Any checking will add character. It will shrink, but should not ever warp out of level. Use a turnbuckle as part of the holddown, so if need be, it will be easy to tighten it up.

Do NOT weld on the face of your Fisher anvil. You will ruin what you have.

The handling holes on Fisher anvils were used for the fixtures they had for grinding after casting.

You have an early Fisher anvil. Fisher started in Maine, but by 1852 they moved to Trenton, NJ. I think your anvil was made in NJ, not Maine. Clean it with any chemical removers. Just scrub it down after with a detergent, then use a light oil or boiled linseed oil. Wire wheeling will work too, just use a mask because you do not know what kind of paint that is. Fisher anvils do not ring. The thud is perfectly normal. Do not try to repair the anvil. You have lots of real estate left. Just use what you have.

Yesterday at the R&T show, I bought one anvil, and passed on 12 more. Lots of iron out there. I wish I could buy more, but all of my collection has been funded out of my own pocket. The few t shirts I sell just barely cover the electric bill. I am not a non profit, I am a no profit.