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Found 13 results

  1. I need some help answering a question. I have an anvil that I would like to begin working on in order to restore it for functionality. So there is no confusion, let's start with the basics. The anvil is a 300 lb Hay Budden. The extent of the damage is on the face. Yes, I can work around it only with smaller stock. It will be repaired and the edges beveled to my preference. For this task, I will be using a MIllermatic 200. I know that it is small, but it is all that I have. I have access to larger welders if need be. I have not completely made up my mind on filler material. Between MG710 and Stoody, however I am leaning more towards the 710 filler. I have researched all methods and I am familiar with Gunter's. If I use the MG 710, I will follow vendor (Messer) specifications for welding which basically is the same concept as Gunter's. Clean/grind, preheat, weld, and finish. Alright, I understand that I am building up a surface but typically what would the amps be say if you were welding? Stick vs TIG? I would like to TIG it, a lot cleaner, but the preheat is 750F compared to 390F stick. It does give the amps for stick, 45 to 90F (3/32" rod) and 80 to 210F (1/8"). I was looking for someone that had some experience with this filler and how it reacts. Also anyone that has TIG to anvil experience, speak up. I would like to know your process, heat control, amps, and electrode dia. Thanks
  2. So, from what I've read, it seems repairing an anvil is a last resort. I bartered for an anvil yesterday, not sure of the manufacturer, but the guy I got it from seemed to believe it was made here in Maine. The ONLY letter on it that I can make out is an "A" on the rear left foot. My real question is, is the damage on the left side of the working face something I should consider repairing? I think it shows evidence of prior poor repair attempt(s). It also has very little ring when struck, which, led me to believe someone already ruined the heat treating. If that's the case, can I reheat it and heat treat it again? Lastly, I HATE that it's painted red. Is there any paint removers I should avoid? I've also been cleaning it with Zippo fluid, and it occurred to me that I should ask here before continuing to clean with it. I figured the oily residue it leaves behind would help prevent rust. I've taken some pictures, let me know if anyone needs something else for IDing the maker, or damage assessment. Much thanks to all!
  3. The owner of this anvil knows only that it's from his grandfather's farm. He doesn't know the brand, nor the exact weight (thinks it's about a hundred pounds). It needs repair as a 5" long, 1/2" thick chunk of the face has broken off. Can you help with the identification of the anvil manufacturer, and any other particulars such as probable weight, quality of construction? What would be involved (e.g., cost) in repairing the anvil? Could you suggest a fair value for the anvil as is? (Location is Oakland, CA). Full disclosure: I'm a rank beginner in black smithing and am in the market to buy an anvil. This is the first one I've looked at and have no idea if I want to buy it. But I would like to know more about the anvil and will communicate what I learn to the owner, a very nice retired gentleman, as it may help him in selling it. Please look at the 15 photos at http://www.jstokstad.com/Mystery_Anvil/ where you can also see high resolution images by clicking on "view larger image." Overall length is 27", height is 11.25", flat face is 4" wide x 16"long (including the missing chunk), Hardy hole 1" Thank you very much! Bob Stokstad
  4. OK, I have been reading for a week or so (in my few mins of free time), and I see a huge majority of people saying don't grind, weld etc to repair edges. My edges are leaving marks that are more unsightly and problematic, and I have a variation of the questions I've seen asked frequently... I don't want to grind or weld to make a perfect edge, what I am trying to decide is how to blend the sharp points back so they don't gouge my work leaving "ugly" marks. I'm thinking of using a high hardness round file to remove the sharp points inside of the chip marks and using them for different sized radius grooves for fullering and shaping. Other than the very slight metal removal, are there any other dangers to the anvil in feathering off the sharp edges of the chips? Yes I know it's more or less an OCD question, but as a machinist I hate seeing sharp edges which concentrate stresses ...
  5. Hello to all, I just bought this Peter Wright anvil stamped 1 3 22 which I believe means the weight is 218 pounds. I paid $300; it was on CL and am really excited about the good deal. The question I have is the anvil seems to have some unusual face repair; that is, there are fairly small spot welds all over the face. I am wondering how bad this is to the anvil and whether it would mess up the temper much. I tried to dent the welds, but they seemed just as hard as the rest of the face. what are your thoughts? There also seems to be a small crack along the heel. Also, there is a big bolt welded? in the handling hole in the bottom. Was this anvil worth $300? the face is very smooth and the edges aren't chipped badly. (that is a shadow; there is not an arched base)
  6. Can anyone give me an approximate age on this anvil? Just picked up a Fisher Norris anvil. 145.6 lbs on the bathroom scale. Hammer bounce is about a third to half the height of the fall with a low ring. Face is in decent shape on top. Horn has most of the hammer marks. Probable used by a farrier. The one side has a fair amount of poc marks. I assume it may have laid on it's side outside and held water. I hope it's cosmetic. What are you're thoughts on Placing a new edge then filling the remaining low spots? Thanks ahead of time for your answers. http://www.iforgeiro...37311-imag0103/ Wasn't sure how to post image in dialog box so added a link to the image gallery.
  7. I got a 80lb vulcan anvil from my sister. It was in very rough shape. I decided it was not any use to me in the condition it was so I decided to try and repair it somehow. Since it only had a thin steel surface that was in bad shape I welded leaf spring plys to the top. I still need to temper top yet and do little more polishing but it seems to have have turn out decent. I haven't had a chance to give it a testing yet but i think it will at least be more useful than it was. I thought I would post this in case it would be useful info for anyone else who has old low quality anvil that is in bad condition. Im useing tablet to post this and it doesnt seem to let me upload pictures. I will try and upoad some from computer.
  8. Ladies and Gents, I recently aqcuired a Isaac Nash Anvil which is extrememely pitted. See pics. I have decided to repair the old girl. I have an arc welder and a means to pre-heat, however after reading several repair documents I still do not understand which rods to use. I have been on ebay and came accross these hard-facing rods with the following information:- Smitweld sterno 50 MC high recovery only 7 rods per half killo alloy hardness of 63 rc for abrassive wear Would they do the trick? and also how many kg's do you think I would need, anvil is 100kg and needs at least 6mm to build up. Thanks all in advance! Paul
  9. Hi, about 10 years ago I bought a peter wright anvil for 50 dollars if I loaded it in the truck alone :) . She weights 421 lb and has a well worn face taht could use some repair edges and a little build up aprox 1/4 inch to 3/8 in a swoop . She has good ring to it and rebounds well. After divorce I got the equipment she got the shop so things are up in the air till a new shop is settled upon. I do not have a welder but I am willing to haul her a fair distance to get repaired if anyone know some one who could do this :) Just let me know I wi taqke picture of her and post them soon . Thank you Jim Firegnome Forge Hampden maine
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