mtforge

I asked them for prices for 3/16" x 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" they said $5.00 per 100 for each. McMaster's price is $5.54 for 200 3/8", $5.54 for 175 1/2" and $5.54 for 150 5/8" which is about a pound of each size. And since I buy my bandsaw blades, tool steel and such I wait until I get an order together and save on shipping. With the price of gas and not wanting shop downtime it pays for itself to have it shipped. Mark

I'm contacting Jay-Cee Rivets for prices, they don't seem to post them online.

The Blacksmith's Journal #25 has a very good set of plans for building a side draft hood. Also The Anvil's Ring March 1979 has a set of plans. They both are calling for about 10" wide by 10 to 12" tall with a 10" to 12" chimney. I use a side draft hood patterned after these plans and all the smoke goes up the chimney even without a fan. I smell at the end of the day but not from coal smoke. I even have to clean the hood out every so often because it sucks all the ash into it also instead of going into the shop.

The book I have says The Blacksmith Ironworker and Farrier by Aldren A. Watson. I agree it has an excellent section on bellows construction. The bellows I use was made on this pattern.

I buy mine from McMaster-Carr at McMaster-Carr

Blacksmith business for 11 yrs and full time for 5 yrs

Commercial Property Coverage and Commercial General Liability Coverage

Indiana Farmers Mutual Insurance Company My agent's company is Baker Agency 536 N. Memorial Drive New Castle, IN 47362. $374.50 every 6 months I had tried the insurance company from ABANA but they said they don't cover Indiana Mark

I found a insurance company that insures my shop for fire and covers me for $1 million in liability when I'm at shows. Some of the shows require me to supply my own and have a letter from the insurance company. Mark

I bring my own insurance to the events I do. I used to let some people pump the bellows but now I won't let anyone except my daughters on my side of the rope(they work for me in my shop also). If you're looking to insure an event I would check with your local blacksmith group to see who they use and see if you can set up your event under their umbrella. Or check with other reenacting events in your area to see who they are using.

Townsend's tent stake are currently being made with the hook about 45 deg. I think the picture is old. I have been making their tent stakes for a while now. I try to keep the top as close to inline with the shaft as I can so it pounds in better. I also don't quench any of my tent stakes. I would rather have them bend a little than break. This weekend at a show I repaired about a dozen tent stakes for another participant. They had either craked or broke off all together. He said the blacksmith had quenched them to make them stronger. I let them air cool before I gave them back. Mark

The City Coal Yard in Brazil, IN that Steve Sells wrote about was $198 per ton for loose coal last July. I picked up 3 ton. Mark

I tend to stay away from craft shows and tractor shows. They just don't seem to work with what I sell. I like to do reenactments, French and Indian War to the Civil War. I like to make things that are 18th century reproductions(or as close as I can) and items for modern campers. I bring a lot of stuff and can make 80% of the items in front of the public while they watch. Some things are best done in the shop. I like to take orders at the show to make something longer, shorter or whatever they like. It helps to know what some are looking for. I become the village blacksmith and repair the camps ironware, straighten their tent stakes or make the thing they have been dreaming about for awhile. Keep stock on hand to keep the anvil ringing and the forge burning. Have something (or somethings) for quick demos. I make a leaf for school day demos. It takes me about 8 minutes and I have a talk to fill the time while it is heating. As far as how much money can be made it depends. When I started it wasn't much but I've become more well known and better at what I do and the income has come up. I'm been full time about 5 years and business, even now, is still growing. I just came back from a show Sunday night and have three more in the next four weeks, but the fall will be the busiest. You can see what I make and some of the pictures from shows on my web page. MT Forge Mark

A forge is a place to hold your fuel and a source of air being put into it. I've used a hole dug in the ground in Africa and a store bought one here. I've seen the web sight that says you can't use a brake drum. I've used a brake drum on my portable forge for 11 years at different shows and find it's comparable to my store bought high priced firepot in my shop. It depends on what items you are going to make. If I want to make swords I would make it shaped to do that. If I want to make more small items I would make it smaller diameter to save on fuel.

I've been using a forge like this for about 3 years. The scissors jack works very well. I built the top out of Kaowool in a expanded metal housing. The front has a 1" opening so I can heat small/short items without raising it. When I need to put in a larger item I raise it up and put fire brick around the sides to block it in. I don't like the Kaowool because it's too fragile. I've bought some castable refractory and plan to make a shape like a quonset hut and put a semi circle moveable wall in the back to close up the volume even more as needed. I recently put in one of Frosty's tee burner. It works very well.

I've got a 330 gal tank outside with a 30# regulator on the tank. Copper line to building with a valve then to a 1/2" sch 40 black iron pipe into shop. Manifold on back wall with propane valves and disconnects at three drops. I use another regulator at point of use (forge, torch or whatever).

I went with a local insurance company (Indiana Farmers) recommended by another blacksmith. They came out and inspected my blacksmith shop and were happy. It's $880 a year and gets me a $1 million policy when I'm at a show. Some events want me to carry liability insurance. I tried the one hooked up with ABANA but they don't operate in Indiana.

When I make my spring dies I like to use two pieces of stock thick enough to let the master sink in and have some meat left so it doesn't wear through. I bend up the spring part and weld it onto the die blanks. Heat it up, put the master into it and work it under the power hammer while turning the master. I set it off to the side and let it cool. I relieve the edges with a die grinder. When I make a part I like to squirt some oil into both cavities to keep the scale from sticking to the part. Heat the metal up and put it between the dies and gently hit it under the power hammer while rotating the metal. When it's partway formed I can hit harder and rotate more. When the dies close it's done. Usually in one heat.

I've been using the 118 rod but I have a air hammer I put a flat tool used for aircraft in to hammer it. I get the surface close, hammer it then finish with a belt sander.

I've got a 3 ring binder full of instructions in sheet protectors with info on the items I make. I record the stock required and step by step procedures to make them. If it helps I'll take digital pictures and include them. This helps me repeat the items and my daughters, who work for me in the shop, make some things too. Mark

Here's mine. My daughter made it with felt so it can be rolled up between shows. Mark

looking for tips on how you handle the portability of your set ups for demonstrations , festivals, hammer-ins etc coal ? I use coal what size anvil ? Right now 107# was 87# and first 187#. 107# works well, 87# ok but a little small 187# was nice but hard to move set up for your vise ? hooked up to forge table tool racks ? On side of forge table material handling ? ?? I put long pieces under forge and smaller or pieces partially blanked at home in wooden boxes beside the forge truck , trailer , canopies , saftey issues , etc Truck is F350 4 wheel drive, tandem axle 6 x 12 trailer, trader tent with fly(canopy) extends out from tent. I use a side draft hood with smoke stack due to local fire marshal wanting me to get heat out from under fly(I try to keep them happy). I move everything with a two wheel cart and try to make everything collapsable for easy setup and tear down. Mark

I Blacksmith. I go to reenactments to demonstrate and sell, have a web page MT Forge , sell from a local antique/consignment shop, have wholesale clients and take some special orders as they come up. I used to be in industrial maintenance for a while (20 yr) repairing and building everything. Mark

There's also a lot of info at Little Giant Hammer- Nebraska City, NE This is where I bought my dies and spring for my 25# LG Mark

I worked at a place that made the head liners for mini vans and cars. We unrolled fiberglass between large heated molds. We looked at buying a co2 pellet sandblaster system. Very expensive. They would convert co2 into dry ice pellets and use it like a sand blaster. A lot of equipment that sounded like a jet engine. Did a great job with no sand to clean up but we went back to the old way due to the cost. Mark