mtforge

Not just 200 years ago. I had the opportunity to go to Africa last year (Congo) with a fellow blacksmith friend of mine. The local blacksmiths tend to use everything they can. We learned a lot and tried to help them learn a few other items to make also. torsion bar - tongs, hammer, nail header, drifts for hammer head leaf spring - handled hot cut, axe(African style), adze(also African style), machete coil spring - brace and bits, nail stock (yes it's tough) fenders and other sheet metal - cooking trivets, hinges, hasps, vanes and scroll housing for a blower We studied the Basic Blacksmithing book by David Harries and Bernhard Heer from ITDG Publishing before we went. I have a few pictures on my web page MT Forge and I've been told there is an article about it in the latest Anvil's Ring Mark

I took a blacksmithing course during Shaker week in late 2005. The atmosphere is great. I stayed in the dorms and ate in their dining hall. Almost everything was top notch. The blacksmith course I took was not worth crossing the road for. I would have been better to stay at home and read a book. Others I have talked to have raved about the blacksmith courses. I guess I got a lemon. But I won't try it again. I'll stick to closer schools. Connor Prairie or Tillers International Mark

You want me to list all the 30 to 40 parts needed to build one? It's basically a vertical log splitter. I suggest getting Build Your Own Hydraulic Forging Press by James Batson to see the layout and parts. A couple of years ago I landed a large wholesale account and needed some muscle quick. I went to Old World Anvils to order one. Old World Anvils - Hydraulic Press I have a Little Giant power hammer but use the press 5 times as much. Mark

Looks very nice. Mine looks similar to it. When I was building mine I was told to add a lip around the opening. I was told this would make the air go around it and pickup more of the smoke. If it is left flat the air will go across the front and not be as efficient. I've tried different widths and all seem to work to some extent. When I fire my forge up there will be a gap of clear air around the perimeter and all the smoke goes in the middle. Mark MT Forge

That's part of the fun of blacksmithing, being able to make a lot of your own tools and equipment without buying everything. Tillers have a lot of classes from basic to more advanced.

I took a two day course in making coopering tools and then a two day course in coopering (using the tools I had made). Very nice place

I use a a full length (chest to knees) leather for the rendezvous and started using a full length cotton for the home shop. I get too many holes in the clothes.

I had the same question when I started out and didn't have anyone to ask. So at the end of the day I let the fire sit as is and just go out. Then the next day I did a post mortem on the remains and learned what was coke, coal and clinker. In an ongoing fire, to me, the coke is rounded and the clinker is sharper/rougher looker.

Very good list. I could have used this a few years ago when I started out and learned it by trial and error. When I'm at shows demonstrating I don't even look for my hammer I just reach as I'm stepping to the anvil. OCD pays off. I tell people it's like chess you need to know your next step or two (or more) ahead of time. Mark Thomas MT Forge

I was also interested in the tee burner. So I started making some to see how they work for me. I used a 1"x3/4"x1" reducing tee(3/4" on the side) to get a lot of air in. Put in a 3/4" short nipple in and chucked it up into the lathe. This was to try to get a true center instead of using the OD of the tee and get a uneven surface. I drilled the tee for 1/8" NPT. Then tapped out a 1/8" x 4" schedule 80 nipple for 1/4 -28 and installed a 14T-35 taped mig contact tip. The gas injector doesn't go in as far as it does on a sidearm burner. I can adjust the insertion point by how much I tap into the tee. Just can't reverse it. I tried the collet method (page 57 of Michael Porters Gas burner book) but not sure if it will be needed. Then put in a 9" 3/4" nipple. I had bought an 18" nipple and cut it in half to get two 9" pieces threaded on one end. I added a Zoeller flare to finish it. Works very well. We fired it up at our hammer-in this weekend and it worked better than the side arm burner I use full time in my forge. I was thinking of making a choke on each side hooked to a single lever for adjustments.

try these BLACKSMITH PRACTICE War Department Education Manual Blacksmith Fundamentals The blacksmiths craft The blacksmiths craft Blacksmith's manual illustrated Blacksmiths manual illustrated Decorative ironwork Decorative ironwork I have dialup but download them anyway. It just takes awhile. But I'm used to it, we've been running our web page with dialup for a while. Mark

Not really a problem but a tapping of the collective brain. What do you use for your food safe finish? Like for ladles, forks, spoons etc. I'm interested to hear new ideas. I used to use beeswax but when the item sat in the sun it got tacky and customers at rendezvous didn't like it. I've used linseed oil but don't like working with it (it stains clothes, breathing hot fumes isn't good, label says if taken internally to call the poison control center). Some people are allergic to peanut oil so I avoid it. I've settled on vegetable oil. Cheap, readily available and easy to apply/reapply. So what do you use? And why?

There are a lot of good ideas to try, but have you looked at a local blacksmithing group to show them what you're trying to do and get hands on advice? You had said you took classes at Connor Prairie in Indiana. There is a state group there with satellite groups. Iba I'll be at the meeting this Sat near Lafayette (I'm the demonstrator) and would like to see what your doing.

I was at a Indiana Blacksmithing Assoc. hammer-in last Saturday and someone had some printouts from this web page so I thought I would check it out. I'm a full time blacksmith who mainly does rendezvous/reenactment events. The season is over so I can take a breath, look around and get ready for next season.