imagedude

Here's my little Murex 140amp DC welder. It's replaced a large 180amp oil filled AC transformer.

The frame on my size 10 press is 9" deep and 5" wide.

Flypress screws were made from a special shock resistant steel that was rich in nickel. I suspect that it would be cheaper to make a hydraulic press or buy a new flypress.

Well done Larrynjr.

Finally in the shop: The garden looks much tidier now that the hammer has been moved:

Got tired of moving the steel plates so I let it plough: The view from winching point no. 2: The hammer was winched over a 3" step using the steel plates again:

I was blessed with some good weather today so I decided to move the Blacker to its final resting place. Here it is on its metal highway, some 12" x 3/4" steel plate. The view from the first winching position: 2" rollers (scaffold pipe) used to keep the hammer level:

Nice videos, what size and make is the powerhammer?

Tempering is done by heating to a dull, plum red. This is very difficult to see and the use of heat indicating Tempil stick crayons can be a good aid. This operation must be performed in the dark. The dies were placed in a cooling forge and pulled out every minute so that the progress could be monitored. The plum colour can only be seen when the die is placed in a very, very dark place. A guide was constructed to to maintain alignment of the top and bottom die, this also serves a secondary purpose in holding the dies apart when not in use. Below we see the die in the raised position. And below in the closed position. A simple tap with the hammer will cause the dies to close on to the work piece. Here's a piece of 1.5" (40mm) EN9 (1055) that I spent a few minutes working on. This device makes reducing the stock easier as it provides a fixed target. With the conventional hammer and anvil method you end up chasing the stock around the anvil no matter how hard you try to keep it still. This device forces the stock to stay in the right place and provides an immovable, fixed target that you can really swing your hammer at. One slight dissadvantage is that as the dies are in constant contact, they will draw heat from the stock until they warm up. This could be rectified by adding a spring that lifted the dies apart between strikes. Tomorrow I'll fabricate a device that locks the stock firmly in place allowing a single operator to use a sledge hammer.

Breaking down large stock or reducing the section of a damascus billet is hard work without a powerhammer or a striker with a sledge hammer. If you are working alone you will probably end up with a hand full of blisters (especially if you are an office worker) and 1 forearm like Popeye and the other like one of Olive Oil's. To make life easier I fabricated this device which is simply a fullering tool. . It's simply a piece of H13 steel in a piece of scaffolding tube. There is also a lower H13 die mounted on a piece of steel plate 20mm thick. I can mount it on my anvil but I prefer to use it on the diameter 10" steel show as it is at a more suitable height. A similar tool can be made even if you don't have a lathe, simply fabricate the guide from 2 pieces of angle Iron. With an angle iron guide you could even use square bar. Here's the bar being turned in the lathe, remember to allow for the fact that the bar will expand as it gets hot. The top and bottom dies were made from H13 as previously mentioned, H13 is a hot working die steel. It can be hardened and tempered by heating to an orange colour and cooling in a stream of cool air. Here's a special air cooling device that I made. The smaller dies were hardened in a similar manner. Cont... Title was changes as the term used was a registered trademark of another product

I bought myself some more clamps, you can't have too many clamps.

I don't think it's glass plate that is used! Some people use pyroceramic platterns. The source of the pyroceramic is usually stores that stock spares for woodburning stoves.

I've used mini 24volt blowers with some success.

I like large flap wheels: I use 8" wire brushes when I'm feeling brave:

Here's my collection of spare tongs:

I'm about to make a tuyere from some 70mm (2 3/4") and 20mm (3/4") thick wall stainless tube. For the nose of the tuyere I have available a range of stainless plate from 8mm (3/8") to 25mm (1"). Should I use the thickest plate available or would the thinner plate be better able to benefit from the effect of the water cooling?

Digital monoxide detectors are so cheap now that there is no excuse for not having one.

Love the taper turning attachment.

Here's me next to my size 10 press. It weighs 2000lb. The fly arm that I'm holding is from a size 6 press. Below is a size 8 bar press that I bought for a pound ($2).

Here's one of mine. It was 1.5 inch thick cast iron surface table.

I use old surface/inspection tables. I've got half a dozen of them, the biggest is 5' x 3'. I wish I had a bigger one but even the small ones weigh a ton. Some of my benches are old machine bed plates. The 'T' slots are useful for securing work to the bed. Doh! Posted in the wrong section. Anyway my welding tables double as work tables.

Here's my slack tub which I made from a cast iron slack tub!

Skateboard wheels work very well.

my swage block

A little Harrison 140: