Glenn

You got it JJ

Why not just post it in the IForgeIron Gallery? There are some 4,922 images posted there already that have 2,216,071 views. There were 43 new images posted in just the last two days. The Gallery does work and there are people using it. Show us your work, we would like to see it. Another advantage of using the IForgeIron Gallery is that the gallery automatically resizes the image, creates a thumbnail. You can simply copy the link below the gallery photo and insert it into your forum post.

Go to the top of the Forum page. Click on User CP Click on Edit Profile Go to the bottom of the page, enter your location and save. Knowing where you are located (in general) gets you better answers to your questions.

Go to the top of the page and click on User CP Click on Edit Profile Go to the bottom of the page and enter your location and save. You may get more detailed answers if we know where you were in the world you lived.

You got it right.

My condolenses go out to you and to his family.

The two posts have been combined under Blacksmithing and this thread. Thomas, it is a matter of trying to keep all the discussions on one topic together. This helps not only today, but when the thread goes to the archives and someone in the future looks for the information.

Double posting splits the information and discussion that follows into two different areas of the forum, and makes it difficult to keep up. That is why the second posting was removed.

Blacksmithing Groups near you GS0003

Grind an edge on a piece of leaf spring. Makes a serviceable cold chisel. You have the ox/ac so use it for heat. Cut a piece of leaf sprig or coil spring to the needed length, cut an angle on the edge, grind to finish, and let air cool. If needed heat the end, harden and temper. Heat is heat and makes no matter what the source, Acetylene, propane, coal, charcoal, etc.

I talked with Ed by phone today and he is now fighting double pneumonia in addition to the other health issues he has. Prayers would be appreciated. And he says *Thanks a bunch guys*

Leather strips across the shoulders, cross in the mid back, run through a loop in the apron at the waist, and then tie at the waist do not give you a pain in the neck.

Look at the 55 Forge (BP0133) and modifications in the Blueprints. It should take only a couple of hours to build, no clay, and you should have a fire going shortly thereafter. They were designed to be a starter forge, materials easily available, quick to make, and work. While you use the 55 Forge and are getting in some hammer time, you can look for or build the forge of your choice. No one said you could not have 2 forges. (grin) Go to IForgeIron.com and click on *Getting Started*. It will offer many references that you may have overlooked. One reference may give you several more references, and it may take a while to chase them all down. It is usually worth the effort. IForgeIron can be a labyrinth of information at times. Go to the forum, to the bottom of the page and click on archives. It should give you a index tree of the forum sections. Click on the section you interested in and it will give you a listing of 250 entries per page AND look for page 2, 3, 4, etc. These are threads or questions that have been ask before with all the answers to that question in one place. (Pack a cold drink and a lunch if you go this route). Welcome to IForgeIron. Enjoy your visit.

Vern Where do you live? Go to User CP at the top of the forum page Go to user profile left column Go to location at the bottom of that page Save. Oh yes, all caps is difficult to read. (and considered yelling on the internet).

Welcome to Swords on IFI If you have questions or swords to show, post it here.

No worse than one blacksmith in Australia asking me to relay a message to another blacksmith in Australia that was only about 2 hours away (or a slab in Oz measurements). Just another service of IForgeIron.

SwagedSoul BP0334 Adjustable Anvil Stand

A single spot creates only a pool of light and leaves the space between the forge and the anvil dark. Try flooding the shop with light. I find that 2 ea 150 watt lights aimed from 45* either side onto a work station work well and create few shadows. This is in addition to other lights that flood the work area.

This is the place to talk about those sharp and pointy things that fold. Enjoy the new section.

Hollis, keep reminding us. Your story got me to thinking about what I do and what could be used to replace the 2, 10 and 20 ton jacks if they failed. So tonight I refilled and topped off the hydraulic fluid in 3 hand powered hydraulic jacks. They used to go only so far then stall out, now they go full stroke. The jack stands reside next to the jacks so there is no excuse not to use the stands. They got inspected also. Thank you. Keep reminding us about safety. If it saves one injury it is worth it.

Go to IForgeIron.com > search > grinder BP0354 Grinder BP0327 Belt Grinder BP0215 Belt Grinder And there may be others.

Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing > LB0003 Blacksmithing Forges Gas Forges BP0192 Gas Forge BP0272 Gas Forge BP0288 Gas Forge BP0191 Gas Forge Burner

Thinking of a mechanical means to prevent this from happening again. Is there a way to block the ram with a 2x4? What about putting something like a bolt in a hole to lock the ram into the up position? Would a second electrical on/off switch near the dies help? Easier to kill the power locally then take the time to reach to the present location. This would keep the folks (or children) not knowing there were 2 switches from using the hammer. on/off = no power, off/on = no power, off/off = no power, only when on/on can you get power.

Glad you are ok, and glad you had a cell phone. This brings to mind the thread on how to summon help.

John, don't get discouraged, use the time to study. You can practice hammer control on wood. You can practice engraving, copper smithing and tin smithing, all being done cold. The point is to use the time to your advantage and learn. Once you get a fire going, you will then have knowledge to put into practice. Whitesmith and I spent the day splitting wood with a 16 pound maul. Think of it as striking for another smith. If you can not split the wood by hitting the log where you want, what makes you think you can hit a piece of hot metal where the smith directs you to hit it? Just another form of practice. If we had used wedges and sledges it would have been easier, as wedges have a 2 inch diameter face (target area). We were trying to hit the line formed in the wood by the maul twice in a row, not easy when the line is less than 1/8 inch wide. And ever body can see how far you missed just by looking at the position of the second line. How much practice you ask? The pick up truck fully loaded 4 times, the wood cut, split, and stacked. Not just up to the sideboards, but FULLY loaded. Hammer time does not have to involve an anvil.