Waste Oil Forge?
Posted 03 January 2009 - 05:36 PM
How many burners do I need for say 24 inch deep or say from 24 inch to 48 inch deep? I want to make a sliding back wall for longer work. Is this a good idea? I am leaning to use air atomized burners as I believe they will provide the best combustion. The front wall will be a brick pile with supporting framework. I may use propane injection for fire starting. Should I use low density castable refractory as a liner with a firebrick floor? What about kaowool, isn't it a little flimsy? I want to mount the whole forge on steel implement wheels.
Am I on the right track?
Posted 03 January 2009 - 05:39 PM
They use an injector system to deliver the diesel.
Posted 03 January 2009 - 05:45 PM
Posted 03 January 2009 - 06:03 PM
Sorry for not giving you useful information that you asked for, but I couldn't help myself...and would not forgive myself if I did not point out the danger.
Silver Moon Forge
"Perfection is easier to expect, than it is to achieve"
Posted 03 January 2009 - 06:35 PM
Posted 03 January 2009 - 08:59 PM
Be yourself. Everybody else is taken.
Posted 03 January 2009 - 09:54 PM
Posted 03 January 2009 - 11:04 PM
What is needed to successfully burn heavy oil is a large firebox. From what I have seen, the smaller the firebox, the lighter the oil. The question is how large (or small) does one need to burn motor oil which is much lighter than the oil my Dad burned in his still.
There are quite a bit more heat units in heavier fuels as opposed to propane and successfully burning these should be an advantage. One could design an end fired forge with a stack at the rear instead of a tangiently fired forge. This may allow heavier oil fuels.
Warren More thoughts to come on Oil smoke toxisity
Posted 04 January 2009 - 01:34 AM
Posted 04 January 2009 - 11:30 AM
Posted 04 January 2009 - 02:46 PM
Basically it's a 10 inch tall chamber 5 inches in diameter, surrounded by lots and lots of insulation. I use 2 inches of koawool covered in a thick slurry of AP Green 36. The floor is cast refractory cement, so that unburnt oil does not soak into the floor, destroying it. The walls are protected by the thick coat of AP Green, nd hold up very well. The floor does need to be castable or firebrick, though.
There is one burner in my forge, 3/4 inch tubing connected to a blower, with oil dripping into the air pipe through a needle valve. Gravity is more than adequate for fuel injection. Just use a needle valve to control it. Pressurized flammable liquid is dangerous, and is over-engineering.
Use as many burners/injectors as you need to get an even heat. OR, better yet, take a look at the "tunnel forge" blueprint (there's also a small video of it on youtube). It's a gas forge, but for long lain-on-their-sides forges it works great. Just put one powerful burner on one end of a very insulated long tube, the heat evens out over the whole length of the insulated tube.
it's great to see more people with waste oil forges!
Edited by Archie Zietman, 04 January 2009 - 02:55 PM.
Everyone is an atheist towards most of the gods ever worshipped. I just take take it one deity further.
Posted 04 January 2009 - 05:22 PM
Posted 04 January 2009 - 10:58 PM
Posted 05 January 2009 - 05:35 PM
We burn waste oil in our furnaces. We have also had the stack emmissions tested in regard to pollution, harmful compounds etc. The main emmissions from waste oil you will get are sulfur dioxide, soot (carbon). The testing we had done was done for a development approval to relocalte our business into town. As far as the report was concerned we have about as harmful emmissions as a fast food resturant. The only thing I will note about burning oil is you will likely end up with a carbon(coke) deposit on the opposite wall to your burner if it impinges on it. These carbon deposits (we call them old men) normally build up over a month then get to heavy and break off. The only problem with this is it takes some refractory with it each time it does so. We have also had this problem burning straight diesel. Having said all the above we do buy our oil from an oil supplier, who normally sells us good quality waste oil with a minimum of water, antifreeze, etc in it (normally). One problem we do have with oil is the grade does vary occasionally and can be hard to light when cold. Preheating does help. We use an oxytorch to help light them.
Any questions I'll try to answer them.
Edited by forgemaster, 05 January 2009 - 05:38 PM.
Posted 05 January 2009 - 10:39 PM
So if the technology is already there for a diesel forge, if a little effort was given, free diesel is possible... oh and they say the vegetable oil salvaged from oriental restaurants is better than a fast food restaurant???
James (uh oh I'm thinking out loud again )
Posted 06 January 2009 - 01:09 AM
I have only used it so far for casting but hopefuly over the course of the winter am going to build a forge to use it in.
It's a long thread but some of it you can just skim through if you want,BackyardMetalcasting - Lionel's Laboratory
Posted 06 January 2009 - 03:52 AM
I don't see any problem with burning biodiesel it should burn just fine once the forge/firebox is heated. Vegetable is the source for biodiesel. In producing biodiesel from veg oil the glycerol Is extracted. There should be no problem in burning raw veg oil. Some people thin it with some diesel oil.
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