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how to make hardy tools?

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i have just got an new anvil, a 115 fisher norris, and i think it is time to make some hardy tools. like a fueller and hot cutter. i am not really sure how to make them so i thought i would ask. i assume you make a square post the size of you hrady hole, but i don't know how to make a fueller withough power tools (other than an angle grinder). i have been at this for a few months and it is definitley time to make some tools. thanks for replies.

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The hardie hole is a receiver for a square post that keeps the tool from turning. The tool is then attached to the post and (usually) positioned over the anvil rather than the horn for support. The tool is of your own design in order to make your life easier, be that a cutter, fuller, bender, etc.

I usuaully start with a chunk of steel thats bigger than the hardy hole mine start about 1" thick, 3" wide and about 5" long, I forge about 1/3 to the hardy hole size. hen I drive the whole paice down onto the hardy hole to shoulder, then forge the top to whatver I am making, be it hardy, fuller, stake tool whatever. I have some leaves from a dump truck that are what I make my hardy tools from. I know its high carbon, and not good for everything, but I work with what I have.

the first thing I did was make a square stake so I could vice grip the hot peice to it, so I cold hit the other end with a sledge hammer. I work alone.

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thank you. that actually sounds way more do able then i thought. when i am finished (if i find a camera) i will post some pics.

New Guy, if your hardy hole is 1", you can buy square, heavy wall tubing. Cut it to 3-4" long and weld the tool to the tubing (overlap the tool and the tube). The tool will sit on the anvil and the tubing goes through the hardy hole. Now you're gonna tell me you don't have a welder, right?

I have seen some very easy to make hot cut hardys - a piece of angle iron with a filed or ground edge and a shank (or diagonal bar) fixed to the bottom (weld/tennon/thread etc)

I am planning on making one tomorrow - so will be keeping an eye on this thread with interest

Edited by Bob JS

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i don not have a welder and my hardy is 1/2 inch. hence the comment no power tools execpt for an angle grinder. if i had a welder i would already be done by now. not to be a downer or anything :)

You can make a hardy cutter from a flat piece of steel, say a piece 1" by 3" by 3/8". Instead of a square post you basically cut, grind or forge two shoulders onto the blunt end of the hardy so that it fits the hole diagonally. The cutting end is shaped just as you'd think. A piece of leaf-spring would be a good choice, though all sorts of pieces (scrap and new) could be used, such as an old chisel.

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thank you brianbrazelblacksmith. and Matt87 i have lots of leaf springs. the diagonal hot cutter is perfect! thank you to all and the pictures are great. i cannot have theese done til maybe thursday but i will have pics asap. thanks again.

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thanks jimbob good to know. although i was at mystic village in ct once and the smith at he shipsmith shop showed me how to scroll and hot cut. i might jsut check it out.

i don not have a welder and my hardy is 1/2 inch. hence the comment no power tools execpt for an angle grinder. if i had a welder i would already be done by now. not to be a downer or anything :)

1/2"?? That's almost the size of my pritchel hole. :D Never seen one that small, but it should make fabbing a hardy that much easier w/o power tools; smaller material requirements, hence easier forging. :)
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yeah my anvil is 125lb fisher norris. the thing is give or take 150 years old. the prichel is maybe 1/4 inch diamater. i think the hardy is TINY but it makes it easier to fab tools.

Edited by new guy
mis information

Brian:

Your hardy tools are works of art in themselves as are all the tools you make.

When you spread the base of the hardy tool did you use a set hammer or do I have to be jealous of your hammer control . . . too? ;)

Frosty

Thanks, Frosty, that made me laugh. I used the fullers in the picture to spread the base, starting at a 45 degree angle and gradually decreasing the angle as I get the backing and increasing my fuller as this happens until I finish the base.

I made you . . . LAUGH! :o

Good. How's the eye today?

I can see I'm going to need to make some fullers once I get the LG up and running. I have a number of old ones but nothing like a contiguous set. And . . . I have a powerhammer now and I can. ;)

What steel do you use?

Frosty

I made you . . . LAUGH! :o

Good. How's the eye today?

I can see I'm going to need to make some fullers once I get the LG up and running. I have a number of old ones but nothing like a contiguous set. And . . . I have a powerhammer now and I can. ;)

What steel do you use?

Frosty

Yeah, you made me laugh about my hammer control. I just put the material between the hammer or top tool and the anvil, and it practically makes itself.
My forehead is doing fine.
I use 4140 because I get it for free at a local suspension shop. I get annealed drops from 5/8" to 2" round with 1/8" increments in between.
  • Author
1/2"?? That's almost the size of my pritchel hole. :D Never seen one that small, but it should make fabbing a hardy that much easier w/o power tools; smaller material requirements, hence easier forging. :)


dodge i lied. i eyeballed my hardy and it turns out to be mre like 3/4 in or 7/8. i made a hot cutter today i have to heat treat it tomorrow. also i cut the section to make a slitting chisel. i think 1in wide is the right size for a slitting chisel. that sound about right? thanks for the posts. i cannot wait til i get to use these tools! thanks again. :rolleyes:

I have to anvils, 1 hardie is 3/4 the other is 1 1/2 inch, any suggestions on hardie tools to fit both.

Pipeliner32

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fit some shims in the 1 1/2 in one to make in 3/4 in i have heard that will work. or (like me) have only one anvil with hardy tools. the smaller one will be easier to make. just my .02 worth good luck.

Here are some pictures of how to make some hardy tools:



Brian,
I think the diagonal hardy is very clever. If it's tapered correctly one could use it in a variety of hole sizes.
In some other thread someone expressed some concern about splitting the hardy hole because the pressure is so concentrated. Apparently, that's not a valid concern??
Not with a cutting tool it isn't, but I wouldn't do it with a forging die.


So that would be where a guillotine tool would be useful if one doesn't have a third hand? It can be centered over the anvil for striking.
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i wonder, is there a way to make a guotine without welding? that would be a really cool tool. thanks for the replies.

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