johnrgarland Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Hey Folks, I'm a newbie, using coal to forge a knife blade from round spring steel. This is pretty decent steel - I know it's really hard - but I'm not real sure on the process. Do I pound it into a flat blank and then start shaping it? Am I wasting my time by starting with round stock? I have some flat stock that might be easier to work with. At the very least I'm having a good time heating it up and working it. My first attempt looked an awful lot like a cold chisel when I overheated it and fizzled the steel. Input anyone? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Coil springs are good steel for knives. I use a lot of it. Yes pound it into a flat bar and then shape it. You are not wasting your time starting with round stock. Enjoy yourself and keep a record of what you do, that way when something goes wrong you won't repeat the process and when something goes right, you can repeat the process. Check the knife forum there is much info there on bladesmithing and heat treating. Welcome to the dark side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 If you believe the coil spring is too hard. Heat it to non-magnetic and stick it in either a bucket of wood ash, Lye, vermiculite, or pearlite to soften it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
element Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 do you do this prior to forging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRobb Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Yes. This will make it softer & easier to work. Then, when you are finished shapping it, you will go through the process hardening & tempering it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I have used lots of coiled springs for knives johnrgarland. Its very good steel, (5160) the only tricky part it uncoiling it. I ususally do this over the edge of my railroad anvil. Be sure to have some good color in it, working to cold will cause problems later on. Tell us how it goes!! And welcome to IFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Anderson R Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 It would be well worth the time and money to invest in some bladesmithing books, Wayne Godderds " $50 Dollar Knife Shop" will take you step by step through forging a coil spring into a finished blade, and you can usualy pick up the book for around 10 dollars through Amazon.com. Its good info and worth the read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnrgarland Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Thanks for all the good info. I have a few books already including the on mentioned. Regarding heating to non metallic and cooling in wood ash etc. Is that just wood ash or a mixture of the items listed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Anderson R Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 regular wood ash works well if its preheated I find, if not, go down to your local greenhouse and see if you can get some Vermiculite, stuff works awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 To un coil it I usally take some string and measure out how much I need and mark it with soap stone then cut what i need off which a cut off wheel on my 4.5 angle grinder , then to starighten I heat it up and clamp in vice then do the "finale starighting on the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMuncher Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I think you mean non-magnetic, or critical temperature johnrgarland. 1400 F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Forge the point while it's still round, before you flatten it. This will save you time and extra steps as you forge the blade. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 also remember if ya don't get it done in 1 session, heat it to non-mag and let it cool in (i use lime) till the next time you play with it. but there is a 100 was to do the same thing, find what works for you, good luck,jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsilver4 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) If you believe the coil spring is too hard. Heat it to non-magnetic and stick it in either a bucket of wood ash, Lye, vermiculite, or pearlite to soften it. You don't anneal before forging, you forge at high orange heat anyway,you anneal before you finish the shaping and grinding, then quench and temper----Regards Butch Edited February 17, 2009 by rsilver4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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