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I Forge Iron

J Anderson R

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  • Location
    Fairmont, Minnesota
  • Biography
    Im a husband and father, and a bladesmith when I can find the time
  • Interests
    Knife making, forge welding damascus, and just being in my smithy
  • Occupation
    CNC Laser opperater/ partime bladesmith

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  1. Looks great Kevin, alot better than my first pattern weld. Careful though, its addicting
  2. nice looking knife, got a nice temper line too, great job. Great work on your handle laminating
  3. Be glad it wasnt red hot metal, youd be begging for a bee sting
  4. About 1.5 hours two draw out the steel ( all by hand and 5 lb hammer ), another hour to forge the blade, an hour of grinding, and 6 days of heat treatment with overnight freezes between. Thats not counting the guard, pommel, and handle. Im no professianal so Im not as quick as some.
  5. Thanks, 6 quenches was alot, but I had heard of people doing as many as 4 quenches and I just wanted to see what happened. So far I havent seen any vast improvement over my triple quenched blade, but it didnt hurt anything either. I followed Eds method of forging and doubled his heat treatments for my experiment. No coincidence it looks "Fowler-esk", I realy like his style. I should also mention I did do a temper cycle after the third quench to relieve the stresses a little befor I went on. With this knife Im going to focus on the cutting and edge durability, then Im going to do another one for destruct tests because this one is getting a new home, people didnt like they idea of me destroying her, even in the name of science
  6. I started using 9 oz shoulder leather for sheaths and it works pretty well. Thick enough to be rugged and still thin enough to add an overlay and not make it look chubby
  7. Thats a great first knife, make sure you use the heck out of it, you'll learn alot.
  8. I actualy decided I like it the way it is, you cant realy see from the pic but the leather spacer is shaped (on the bottom side) to give a comfortable transition between the bone and guard so no extra shaping is realy neccesary. I always want to change a blade after Im done with it, but I never do, I'll just forge a new one. Its what keeps me going lol
  9. Thanks guys, the guard looks a bit bulky, so Im going to try to grind a finger relief into it to add some curve and take some of the bulkyness away. It should make the knife flow better from front to back
  10. Heres a new hunter Ive been working on, finaly finished. Blade was stretched from 1" John Deere L&D shaft (5160) and given several flash normalizing cycles during forging and 3 full normalizing cycles after befor annealing. The guard and pommel are some beautiful antique wrought iron from an 1800's wagon wheel rim, and the handle is dyed elk antler and stacked leather. Shes a hand full, but has a great grip and palm swell. I did an experiment, forged thick, and edge quenched this blade 6 times with freeze cycles between hardenings. I didnt take pictures but the visual transformation of the steel between the first and last quench was amazing. After the 3rd quench she had the grainy "wootzy" pattern we all know and love, but by the 6th quench, freeze and end tempering the steel looked incredible, barely any visible grain but almost a crystaline appearance. Im goin to do some testing and see if it helped the performance. Il repolish and etch later and see if I cant get some good pics of the temper lines. Shes razor sharp and ready for work. Glad to hear what you think! OAL 11.25" Blade-6" Satin finished for now
  11. I never new I needed one until now, but that little bugger would have saved me alot of headaches, I must find one!
  12. Thanks for the tip, Il be sure to contact him.
  13. Un fortunately he was VERY hard of hearing and most of the talking was done with his son, but he did pipe up and said " Ive drawn out ALOT of ties with this " and I believe him. Im sending him pictures when its up and runnin again
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