Frosty Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Sure it'll work and work pretty well for an expedient forge. You don't need anything fancy to line it just ram in some damp clay till it's pretty hard and let it dry. A leaf blower is WAY too much air as is a shop vac. The blow drier is plenty, even for a pretty large fire. I can't help you with coal. Have you contacted NWBA? They're a pretty active organization and have various chapters(?) all over the Pac NW. Have you tried calling a blacksmith, farrier or farrier supply? If they don't use or carry coal they'll know who does. About doing this as soon as possible. Don't get in a hurry, it all to often sets a guy up for failure and that's a bad way to learn a craft. Take the time to do it right, you won't be sorry. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I can remember several articles from Popular Mechanics on building a sink forge. As well as an oilcan forge using a bike pump and a small basin type sink since we are on the subject. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/metalworking/4303543 http://www.pinterest.com/pin/97671885639014401/ http://books.google.com/books?id=a4bVAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA130&lpg=PA130&dq=popular+mechanics+sink+forge&source=bl&ots=GGqZIT3XiT&sig=rEntFIr_LCD5ySmP0DCN0LmDtEg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=w1dvU424HsqtsASlz4DAAg&ved=0CD8Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=popular%20mechanics%20sink%20forge&f=false As far as coal, I can't really help you there as it's been way too many years since I lived out in Keyport Wa and went to school in Poulsbo Wa. Some where around here I've still got the North Kitsap Jr High school emblem I cast in Shop class using their alum casting furnace and my 1st introduction to forging was in the same shop class using their gas forge back in the early 80's. Frosty's suggestion about contacting NWBA would also be my 1st suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Good Morning, Check out the NWBA web-site www.blacksmith.org There is a get-together next weekend on Longview, Wash. There will be a truck load of coal for sale by the bag. There will be lots of different trinkets and tools available in the sales area. There will be many different interests covered with the different demonstrators. There will be classes going on all weekend. There will be "MIDNIGHT MADNESS" !!!!!!!!! Propane forges running, Anvils waiting, Grant Sarver's tools waiting to be used for what they were meant for. Idea's required or generated on the spot!! Helpful people standing or sitting. Need a question answered, ASK ANYONE if they don't know, they will point you to who will. Bring a notebook, pencil or pen, camera, open mind, sleeping bag to crawl into when you can't see any longer (there are places to sleep under cover, you don't need a tent). I hope to see you there. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Good Morning, I forgot, If you don't have a ride, there are LOTS of people who will be going by, down the I-5 corridor. Just ask!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Ok. well Ill start the building process and i should be able to forge soon then! I am going to go to the metal scrap yard tomorrow and see if i can find an anvil...Had one line up and the person dropped off a chunk of rail back in Wyoming like an hour after I left... oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I just coated the sink in a 1/2 inch thick mortar firebrick and clay pot mix that i made today. I also added a pipe out the bottom so that it will have an air in pipe. I also have made a stand for it so that it can sit fairly high off the ground. plan to run the charcoal through it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Let it dry thoroughly, don't get in a hurry or it'll shrink check badly. Mud shrinks as it dries but you can simply drive some dry in the cracks with a stick, like chinking a cabin. However if you fire it while wet weird thing tend to happen unless it's a very sand/grog heavy mix. Just don't get in a hurry and you'll do fine. Most of my most memorable mistakes were me in a hurry mistakes. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscer Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hi fellas, I would like to build a side draft forge and have a few questions, I found an old porcelain covered cast iron sink the other day it is one with a high back that I think would make a good heat shield that I would bring the draft box right through to the fire. It also has a 2" hole in the bottom, is 1/4" thick and measures 19 5/8 x 13 1/2 x 6 1/2 deep. figured on using fire brick and refractory to bring the dimensions into 8 x 12 x 4 but I was wondering about the porcelain, probably have to grind it off? Another question is what kind of fire brick, found a cite that sells 2300 degree soft brick at reasonable price, is that what I should use? Thanks for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 First bit of advice, do a search for sink forges, forges from sinks etc. there was just such a thread last week. That said, i use an old bathtub for an outside fire place and grill, the coating will flake off if it isnt protected, but in this case, by the time you have built up the bottom of the sink to a resnable deapth it wont be a concern. I am assuming you are building a bottom blast forge for coal, you need to build up the botrom to 3-4" from the rim, just "cement" a 2" pipe inplace, so a 2" pipe cap will be at the desired hight (drill a 3/4" hole in the center) and form a bowl around the pipe so it is bellow pipe cap. The cap will shed the clinker and form a "donut" below the fire zone. As to "cement" just use sand and clay (10-15 percent clay) cement will breakdown. Most dirt that makes mudpies will work. Clinker sticks to fire brick, so unless its gas or charcoal stay away from fire brick. As to charcoal, make your pipe cap 5-6" shy of the top. To make it a combo, make the stand pipe interchangible. And on the subject of bathtubs, the overflow is about right for a side blast. So if you want a quick, dirty forge just block up an old castiron or stamped steel tub (most old mobile homes) and fill it with dirt, and dig out your "ground forge" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Sugjesting a new catagory in the forge section would be a good joke, if we didnt have so many sink to forge threads, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Sink or Swim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Sinking feeling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHVTZHOT Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 On 5/11/2014 at 12:32 AM, Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) said: So I have this cast iron sink that is junk and i could easily turn it into a forge, it has a pipe running through the bottom and could be tilted or filled if i were to use charcoal but I was wondering if this would work well. I want to start on this as soon as possible because i have been toying with this idea for a while and while i was at school i could do nothing, I not have the power to make it happen but i just need to get started. Ashes and water lining? pipe across the bottom or even the sides? I have a leaf blower that i could use for an air source, i also have a shop vac and a hair dryer. Also, is there any good places to get coal if i go that route that is in my area? Im in kitsap county washington so it would be really nice to find some cheap stuff to get started. I have an old one similar to this that is sitting in an in-laws' garage. I was very curious to know if I can use it for a fire pot. I am researching old posts on this subject as time permits. So far I don't see that anyone has cut away a small section to lay their work piece in the coke. it looks like that flange for the drain is aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 As mentioned in this post, sinks are generaly way to deep, with the exeption of some RV sinks. So the drain is of no real concern. If you install the sink so it is at anvil hight (bathroom vanity high) one can simply get a 2” pipe cap and nipple that will set in the sink drain flange and will extend up so the top of the cap is about 4” shy of the rim. Fill the sink with mineral soil (adobe woks well, but if it will stay dry one can just fill it with cheep cat litter/dry sweep). Form a shallow bowl that extends down around the pipe cap and drill a 3/4” hole in the cap. Any slag will run off and form a ring around the cap (as long as the cap is standing proud). it doesn’t have to be a cast iron sink, as you will only need a fire ball about 8” in diameter and the rest will be fill. If you try building the fire in the bottom of the sink you will end up not being able to heat bars in the middle. This is ok for small work but it is so much easier to just heat a bar and cut it off at the hardy than cutting with a saw cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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