Reindeer Forge Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 I have a whole box of industrial coil springs. The metal is about 1/8" thick, varies from 1/4" - 3/4" wide (1/2" most common), and the lengths vary - if straightened maybe 9" - 18". I have no idea what these were originally used for. I got them as part of a mixed lot at an auction (I was after some tools and clamps). I don't think I paid $10 for the whole lot. I have around 50 springs. I'm not sure of the exact metal composition, other than high quality spring steel. To date, I have only used a couple of springs in various found art welding sculptures. What should I do? I'm pretty new to Blacksmithing, having taken basic classes at CAFAC in Minneapolis. I'm working out of a Maker Space shop, so the equipment is pretty basic (gas forges, anvils, no power hammer, but I have access to a full metal shop). The only idea I can come up with is to straighten the coil and use the steel as the cutting edge in a forge welded ax head made of mild steel. The problem is that the forges I have access to don't get hot enough for forge welding. Suggestions from the community are most welcome. This material seems too good to let go to waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 How hot does your gas forge get, color? I assume by "gas" you mean propane but that's just a guess I don't know where you live. If you put your general location in the header you'll have a better chance of meeting up with IFI member/smiths living within visiting distance. If your forge will reach even low yellow heat the issue is not knowing how and we're pretty good at talking new folk through first forge welds. Of course it could be some exotic alloy that requires a 40 KW phaser three jedi knights focusing the force and a blow from the Nautilus at full ramming speed. Or, joking aside it might not be forge weldable. That's one problem using salvaged steel, you just never know what it really is. On the other hand it looks to be a good size for knife and axe bits. Have you tried hardening and tempering it? While it's a spring it might not be a hardenable alloy. I just deleted my test the mystery blade steel procedure, it is just my method and I'm sure there are actual bladesmiths who can do a much better job of it. Testing mystery steel isn't the place for one of my rambly descriptions. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 If it would make good blade steel, then wood carving knives come to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 Basically, you need to test the material. First, straighten out a portion of all of a spring and cut it in 2-3" lengths. Then take one and apply a file to it to see how resistant or soft it is un-heat treated. Then, heat the piece up to critical (non-magnetic) temperature and quench it, probably in something like cooking oil heated to around 140 degrees F. Then, see if a file will bite on it or just skate off. If it is hard, put it in a vise and hit it sideways with a hammer. It will probably snap off. Examine the broken part and look at how granular the break is, the finer the better. If it looks like table salt or sugar that is good. If it looks like rock salt, no so good. Repeat, with a 2d piece and after hardening grind one side so that you can see the tempering colors. Heat it with a propane torch or in the forge to a bright blue color. Quickly quench it to stop the tempering process. Try the sideways blow in the vise again. It should be less brittle and more springy and may not break but bend after repeated blows. If that is how it turns out it is good for making blades. Wash, rinse, repeat with other pieces (aka "coupons") with different quenching mediums such as water or different tempering colors. Make sure you take notes so that you will remember in the future. Numbering the coupons can be a good thing too. This is a real basic process and others may have more detailed suggestions. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeJustice Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 A Google image search turned up screw feeders/conveyors. The shape of the first one makes me doubt that is a spring. So what metal they might be, I wouldn't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 12 hours ago, George N. M. said: First, straighten out a portion of all of a spring and cut it in 2-3" lengths. Then take one and apply a file to it to see how resistant or soft it is un-heat treated. Then, heat the piece up to critical (non-magnetic) temperature and quench it, probably in something like cooking oil heated to around 140 degrees F. To expand and clarify: after straightening the spring, heat it to non-magnetic and allow it too cool to room temperature in still air. Then proceed to testing as noted above. If a file doesn't bite after that initial heating and air-cooling, you may have an air-hardening steel, which is a whole different ballgame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 2 hours ago, LeeJustice said: A Google image search turned up screw feeders/conveyors. If these are from screw feeders, they may have been from “food” processing equipment and may be stainless steel. Are they hard in the current state (does a file bite) and are they magnetic? Keep it fun, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 Good point, Goods. I did think that it was unusual for them to have a square cross section rather than the normal round one of coil springs. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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