kasper Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 i am looking at purchasing anyang hammer but would greatly appreciate any input from the members of i forge iron thank you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 I am the distributor for Anyang... and a blacksmith. I have a new site that is very much under construction... Anyang USA I will be getting an inventory of hammers and dies in very soon. Give me a call (or email me your number) and I will help you out any way I can. My shop is also open where you can try out the various hammers. You can also check out some of my work at James Johnson Metalsmith James Johnson 940 6274529 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 The IForgeIron members may be able to help you. Four IForgeIron members, from four different parts of the world, are dealers and available to answer your question or assist you with your machine. JohnN - John Nicholson, UK Distributor AnyangSteveH - Steve Hansl, Canada Distributor Anyang Jamesrjohnson - James Johnson, USA Distributor Anyang Moony - Glenn Moon, Australian distributor Anyang First you need to go to the green bar at the top of forum, click on user CP and fill in your location. Assist you in what way? Please ask a specific question so we have some place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redanvil Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Kasper..Have you checked out Big Blu's hammers. They have special hammer-compressor deals going now. James..I checked out your metal work web site and was very impressed..I liked your combination of materials and forms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Russell Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 G'Day kasper, i'm pickin' mine up ( the C1-15 ) in about 5 days ,, what youse wanna know ? Dale Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 And of course I (or rather my wife) offer a free English/Mandarin?English translation service in case you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 My advice is buy sooner rather than later! Prices from China are shooting up, and the USD / GBP sterling / CYN rates arent helping. Let us know what size of work your intending to do, and where your based and im sure we can give you a few pointers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasper Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 thank you all for your input but i have one more question. my shop is small but have plenty of room for a hammer should i go with a small hammer or a mid size and what should i expect to pay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 First you should go to the green bar at the top of the forum page, click on user cp and enter your location. We would like to know where in the world you are located so we can better assist you. For instance, there is no use shipping a hammer from Australia to UK when there is a Anyang dealer in UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Kasper... the right size hammer all depends on how you are going to use it... Obviously, if you are going to use the hammer every day and are going to forge large pieces, you will need a larger hammer... My advise, before you buy a hammer, forge with it first. I am not sure where you are, but I have a 33, 88, and 165 pound Anyang hammer in my shop and it is always open for serious blacksmiths. James R. Johnson 940 6274529 Alvord, Texas (north of Ft. Worth). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveh Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 my Anyang hammers arrived finally and cleared customs.they should be delivered within the next few days.i can hardly wait to get one mounted and ready to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trattoclip Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 control every part ! loosened lives residual sand of fusion in the structure after this, you can work great ! after to have audited mine c41-15 power hammer, now I work 1.58 inch square without a problem good job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveh Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 i got the machines delivered on thursday,one is going to a new home,and the 40kg hammer is in my carport waiting for a concrete base to appear in the shop.i am hoping to be able to have everything set up and wired in before Christmas. trattoclip,i will definitely take your advice.i am going to get my Dad(machinest/millwright)to give me a hand also my buddy is a retired professor of mechanical engineering and he is as excited about the hammer as i am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Hey Steve, Like Trattoclip says take a half hour to check everything on the hammer is torqued up before running & you may need to make the oiler non return valve mods Ive mentioned on here to get consistent oiling. On the hammers I resell I modify them slightly so that the tup is 'swinging' (just starting to bob up and down) slightly in the 'Top Setting' position, this makes the hammer run cooler and pull a couple less amps. Run the small hammers (33lb) on a light oil, they warm up quicker and hit harder, the 40 KG hammer will be fine on 60's weight oil If you have any questions please feel free to PM me ! Have Fun !!! - Youll be amazed at how fast the 40 kg will break down 3" square stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 James Johnson of Anyangusa just got back from California and he bought all of the Anyang hammer, dies, and parts inventory from the Bob Graham estate. He now has a fairly complete selection of hammers and parts. He also has another load of hammers and dies coming in to Texas in the next 4 weeks from China. He will be traveling to China the end of next week to spend a week in the factory and learn more about the machines. If you have questions he is the USA dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Having used a brand new Anyang 1cwt at moonys (i had to set it up first of course), i was impressed by its forging power compared to the massey 1cwt we have at our shop. However our massey is I guess over 40 years old and still is a good hammer. Don't know how the anyang will be after that sort of life. They seem a nice hammer that is simple and seemed easy to control. For blacksmithing, simple is the best I reckon so long as it works (like some of my employees, although its often hard to get them to work). The cosmetic finish was OK however I was a little disapointed in the mechanical finish of the hammers ie fit of pins in the controls, play in the priming handle of the lubricator, slackness of the fit of the control handle to the control valves. As stated earlier in this post, the hammers need someone with some fitting or mechanical experience to go all over them and just rectify these little things. Apart from that I feel that for the money paid for them, they are not a bad hammer. However professionally though if I had to choose between an old massey in fair condition and a new anyang I'd go the massey every time for industrial use. For hobby and occasional use, I think they will be a good hammer. The only thing that I would add to this is I feel that they would hit even better on a good concrete foundation, the one we set up at moonys was just done quickly on wood. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveh Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Thanks John for the offer,I am sure to have some questions seeing they are my first machines.When my customer and I opened the crates we were impressed,they seem to be finished off nicely.Even though the C41-15 is smaller at approx. 600lbs just looking at it you can tell it is metal mover.John,by the time I get the C41-40 set up I will have a piece of 3in. ready to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David E. Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 After 18 months of saving up my pennies for a 3ph converter and a 25kg Anyang imagine my disappointment when John told me of the price increases:o from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasper Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 Im the proud owner 41-15 anyang power hammer,which i purchased threw Steve who has been great to deal with and very helpfull.I will be picking the hammer up on tuesday and mounting to my shop floor.My shop floor is 6inch fiber mesh concrete 15 years old ,my plan is to anchor 4 rods 36 inches long 6inches into the concrete run them through 2 12x16 inch old growth douglas fir, mount the hammer on top of the timbers with the rods threw the holes of the base of the hammer and then suck it down to the shop floor.Thats plan A so far.Would greatly appreciate any in put, and any infoe on pre start up check list. Best Regards To All Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 How are you planning on anchoring the rods into the concrete? Are you planning on using grout capsules? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasper Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 thanks for the quik come back Mark,the 2 ways I was thinking of anchoring it was what we call drop anchors which is a sleeve that you insert in to the hole ,as you tighten it the more it grips,the other is drop the ready rod into the hole filled with Red Head A-75 adhesive.ready rod that I would use is grade#8 thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 thanks for the quik come back Mark,the 2 ways I was thinking of anchoring it was what we call drop anchors which is a sleeve that you insert in to the hole ,as you tighten it the more it grips,the other is drop the ready rod into the hole filled with Red Head A-75 adhesive.ready rod that I would use is grade#8 thanks again In the industrial applications I have worked on, if the anchor bolts couldn't be cast in place, they are usually grouted in using an epoxy similar to the one you have mentioned. I don't know if the shield anchors would provide you with the pull-out strength you are looking for. Do you know the nature of the slab you are mounting the hammer to? Is it a slab on granular or on void form or...? The concrete slab is the one potential weakness that I can see. I don't think fiber mesh reinforcing is as strong as the rebar reinforcing. If you really want to make sure the slab will handle it, you can do what I did. I have a 25 pound little giant copy trip hammer mounted to a 14" concrete base slab (I saw-cut out the existing 6" un-reinforced concrete slab to make room for the deeper base slab). I cast in the 5/8" threaded rod attached directly to the rebar cage and had 4" X 4" plates at the end of the rod to prevent pull-out. The concrete I used should achieve around 32 MPA at 28 days. I should have dowelled the slab into the surrounding base slab, but I got lazy. I was running the hammer for a while yesteday and I could feel the surrounding slab shaking quite a bit. I would imagine a modern air hammer would run smoother than an old trip hammer. If you are running the fir sleepers, the force should be distributed over a larger footpint so there will be less point loading. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 What I do is construct a base out of 1/4 inch steel plate, then fill it with concrete. For the top between the hammer and the base, I use 3/4 inch plywood. I weld threaded rods to the bottom of the base that go through the concrete to tighten the hammer. This type of base also adds a very low cost way of adding weight and mass to the hammer. I also weld angle iron tabs to the bottom of the base and then anchor the tabs to the floor to keep the hammer from "walking". You can obviously customize the height of the base to make sure the anvil/working height is comfortable for your height and working preferences. I also weld a very simple motor anchoring and adjusting platform to the base. You can see some of the pictures of the base at Anyang USA I am currently in China but if anyone is interested, I can send them dimensions and more detailed pictures when I return. James R. Johnson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasper Posted November 18, 2008 Author Share Posted November 18, 2008 Good morning all,thanks for your intrest Mark.I poured the slab some 15 years a go on a well tamped base, rebar in the footings ,wire mesh through out the slab and 6 inchs of concrete with the fiber mesh in it and there are no visible cracks.Today the hammer will be at my shop and the mounting process will begin and I will go with plan A ,mounting to sleepers and if Im not happy with that I will go with the concrete base. Best Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Ahh, wire mesh and not fiber mesh reinforcing. That should give you plenty of strength. If your base is well consolidated and compacted to 95%+ density, and you don't have any frost or heave issues due to clay expansion/contraction, you should be alright (as you mentioned that you have no cracks, you probably don't have any of these issues). Please post some pics when you are done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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