Glenn Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 OK, it is time for the wood workers out there to give some advise to the blacksmiths. I have always been told NOT to use water on a handle as it swells the wood making it tighter for a short while but crushes the wood fibers as the wood swells. When the water dries out, the handle is now looser than ever before. I have also been told that a loose hammer handle should be re-wedged and cross wedged. Many times this is just a matter of driving each deeper. Let us know, with references if the water on the loose hammer handle is a good idea or not, and why. Let us know, with references if some type oil on the loose hammer handle is a good idea or not, and why. And while your at it, is there a good way to get that metal wedge out of a hammer handle shot of drilling the wood out from around the wedge? No matter the cause, a loose hammer handle is dangerous and should be repaired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Woodworkers expand wood with water and steam to lift dents in wood. We, however, cannot repair broken fiber. One method of tightening hammer heads that hasn't been mentioned is using CHAIR-LOC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trash collector Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Anti-freeze is the answer TC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 When I am shoeing sometimes my handle loosens up (about 1 or 2 times a summer) if I wait till I am home and do something the right way such as linseed oil I never think about it untill I am being agrivated again. I find that if I dip my hammer in the quench bucket for about the time it takes to heat shoes or less that is all that you need to add enough water. I think that the big problem with water is "if a little is good a lot must be better." That said I do believe that linseed oil or glueing are better. For removeing handles I saw them off flush and use a punch to drive the wood out over a hole rather than drilling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 On a new handle, I use a wood wedge and then a steel wedge at 45 degrees to the wood one. With an hourglass form to the eye, these hold very well. To rehandle a hammer, I use a large punch to drive the handle down and out of the hammer head. Sometimes the handle can be saved, reshaped, and used again. Otherwise a new handle is used. Either way, the two wedges are used. I don't use oil or anything else on the handles, just a couple coats of spray Deft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Wooden wedge straight on and a steel one at 45% across that. If they loosen drive them deeper. NO WATER!!! Chair loc is good stuff. Oh and steam is just doggone hot water! Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgee Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Hello All, My first Post!!! I am very new to this blacksmithin' and just the other day read that Jim Hsisoulas advice in "The Complete Bladesmith" is that he sands and soaks all his hammers, head and handle in in oil for two-three weeks. He also stated that he uses tempering oil for this and that he has only replaced one handle in five yrs. This "prevents handle breakage and prevents splinters as well." Hope this adds another thought for you to try. I will be posting a new idea (one I could not find anywhere) on making your first forge utilizing a gas hot water heater!!! Works pretty good, I think....as I have never used anything else....Maybe ignorance is bliss! That will be my second post! HappyHammerin" to All.........chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warrigal Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 So what I need is a tall narrow "bucket" with a lid, that will take my hammer heads at the bottom and tall enough for my longest hammer handle filled with...... oil. Hmmmmm I'll have to see. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 So what I need is a tall narrow "bucket" with a lid, that will take my hammer heads at the bottom and tall enough for my longest hammer handle filled with...... oil. Hmmmmm I'll have to see. Carl Try a four inch PVC pipe with a cap on the bottom and screw cap on the top ...if you get a presta valve you can use your compresser to air it up and soak under pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Try a four inch PVC pipe with a cap on the bottom and screw cap on the top ...if you get a presta valve you can use your compresser to air it up and soak under pressure Be very careful pressuring it up though, I built a water gun out of 3 4'' pipes all linked together and pressured it up to about 50# when it gave way at a joint and sent water all over my entire shop. Looked like it had rained in there for an hour and I only had 2-3 gallons of water in the thing. I am very glad it wasn't oil The PVC should hold the pressure just fine but be sure of your glue joints before using oil in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimenickel Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 just the opposite.. pull a vacuum on the vessel to draw in the fluid.. .. and make sure you have a vessel made for it.. peg is used to stabilize wood... its similar to antifreeze, just not poisonous G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Finnr, steam is a lot more than just doggone hot water! Steam is a gas under pressure, think about it. Wet wood heated with an tack iron and wet cloth, or in some cases, a microwave generator (scary machine back in my days) will create steam. It is the steam pressure attempting to escape that pushes the wood grain out; water, hot or cold just does not do it satisfactorily compared to steam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Be very careful pressuring it up though, I built a water gun out of 3 4'' pipes all linked together and pressured it up to about 50# when it gave way at a joint and sent water all over my entire shop. Looked like it had rained in there for an hour and I only had 2-3 gallons of water in the thing. I am very glad it wasn't oil The PVC should hold the pressure just fine but be sure of your glue joints before using oil in it. I don't think I'ed put that much pressure on ...just a few pounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 LOL ya well I was having "one of those moments" see... the side of the pipe said it could stand like 250psi or something like that LOL the kids sure thought it was funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 I would have liked to seen the look on your face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 LOL ... Shock and Awe Was a tremendous bang and I was standing right next to it so instant soaking! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warrigal Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 After reading this thread I have soaked nearly all my wedged items in a 50-50 mix of raw Linseed and olive oil ( linseed by itself evaporates very quickly, Check my local I'm in the Northern half of Australia). I ended up cutting the top out of 4liter olive oil can 4''x3''x14'' and dropping the hammers tomahawks hatchets and axes in to it. The full size axes won't fit though. A couple hammers and a case hammer ( hmmm case hammer doesn't google a hatchet with a straight edge and a hammer face opposite, OK like a drywall hammer but more a full hatchet face) Anyway they were loose and I thought I had a days re-hafting them coming up eventualy but the soak has tightened them all up. Thanks for the advise fellas. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Warrigal, your case hammer sounds like it could be either an American lath hammer or a box hammer (employed to assemble produce boxes). Interesting, both hammers look almost identical, are essentially obsolete, and are often confused with the American shingling hatchet. The shingling hatchet has the same shape, but has a slightly heavier blade; it, too, is fast becoming obsolete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warrigal Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 My case hammer looks remarkably similar to this. with a Buck 110 for size. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateDJ Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 The hatchet pictured is a roofing hatchet used for nailing shingles to a roof. The v-notch is for pulling bent nails. It may also have other purposes but I think you can even still buy them form the builders supply stores here in the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warrigal Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 (edited) Ahhhhh that would be why. I have always known them a case hammers for the fruit case description given but here in Oz Shacks were roofed with bark or corro iron ( corrigated tin sheets) Shingles were used but not as a major source of roofing. We don't do the tar and pebble thing you guys do on flat roofs either. Might hit some one up for some advice shortly ( on shingle roofing). The destructacon ( my three year old, son and heir) is pushing for a tree house but I'm heading towards a log cabin because I can get the logs cheap, and we don't have any suitable trees. Thanks for the input. Carl Edited November 5, 2008 by Warrigal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy ebbers Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Hi, has anyone found information on purchasing the SIKAFLEX11FC glue yet? As always, THANK YOU for the help! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy ebbers Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Nevermind, I got off my lazy rear and googled it up, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 We sell Sike on IForgeIron Contact me for payment and shipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in NY Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Start all wooden handles out right and oil em up early and often. I think the old saying goes like this: oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once every year. I don't know what the best oil might be though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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