Hi,

          Thought I would put this up a Commercial Made SS Burner for $25!

Made a Mini Mongo, but did not like it, saw this and was amazed at the price!

Just used it and is pretty neat, you can adjust the needle valve and Air Choke to get a neutral flame or heat.

Goosneck is threaded 1/8" NPT so any needle valve can be used.

 

 

Are you willing to ship it overseas (world wide forum) don't you know. Also it would be helpful to know where in the world you are located. If you add location in your profile folks wouldn't have to always ask you. What size is the burner?

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails. ~ Semper Paratus

I could be wrong but I think seagiant is saying he bought the burner not that he's making ad selling them.

Frosty The Lucky.

Hard to tell with his posts wording

You don't speak text either Steve? I didn't even get particularly good grades in English and . . . <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.

A quick search and the thread title confirms that this burner is made by and offered online by Mr. Volcano.

If someone tried to build this well proven burner, it would probably cost as much money as they are asking for it. I have been hoping Mr. Volcano would market their burner

Took my own advice, and ordered one through Amazon.com; it should arrive tomorrow.

Making burners only gets cheaper if you gear up to make many or have all the gear already.

Frosty The Lucky.

55 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said:

Took my own advice, and ordered one through Amazon.com; it should arrive tomorrow.

Hi,

        Interested in your opinion, once you get it running!

That is why I wanted one; to see for sure how hot it burners, and how well made it is.

The 3/4" Mr Volcano burner came today; it has all stainless steel parts on the burner. The ball valve is cast brass and well made. The mixing tube's inside diameter is 0.834" and the distance between the forward edge of the two air openings is 6.75" for eight times the tube's inside diameter. I would rather see nine diameters, but eight will work. I think they should double the width of the two ribs, to strengthen them. As to value for price; I don't see how they make any money on these burners

Will post again, after I run the burner.

Hi,

          Huh...Well...She'll burn some Propane!

Edited June 29, 20233 yr by Mod30
Remove excessive quote.

Hey seagiantcan you tell me about the ball valve and hose you're using there? My Mr Volcano burner is exactly like yours up to the right-angled 1/8" "fuel pipe". I'm replacing the regulator and hose with one that has a 3/8" flare fitting but haven't be able to find the right kind of ball valve to pop in there between the "fuel pipe" and hose. @seagiant

Welcome aboard mr_daydream, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many members live within visiting distance. The @ tag does NOT work on this forum it only causes problems with the operating system and makes the moderators of admin remove it by opening and remove the code manually. 

Do NOT put the ball valve on the burner, put it at the other end of the hose at the regulator. You can buy 1/4 ball valves that screw into the regulator and the hose will connect to directly. This puts the shut off valve farther away from a potential out of control propane fire where you can turn it off quickly without reaching into the flames. Make sense?

Frosty The Lucky.

Hey Frosty, thanks for the tips and the understanding while I find my footing in this new community.

So what you're saying about the ball valve makes sense, but at the point that I put it next to the regulator it seems superfluous given I can just turn off the feed or turn down the regulator. Do I even really need it? Makes me curious why Mr. Volcano put it right by the burner. Is it bad design? Or is there a compelling reason? I do find it handy to be able to be right there when the gas starts flowing to light it as opposed to being a few feet away at the tank/

I have one of the Mr. Volcano two burner forges and the shut off near the burner is handy as I some times remove one burner and plug the hole with a fire brick carved to fit the hole. Why it would be needed in a single burner is another think.

Mr. volcano does a lot of things that makes me shake my head but it's still excellent value for the money. 

Sure you can turn the propane off at the tank valve but it takes a few turns of the handle. You probably haven't seen the size fire a cut propane hose makes even at 5-10psi but it's terrifying and may have flopped over towards the tank. You can turn a 1/4 turn valve off with a thrown glove or fast slap. 

My two working forges have copper tubing to the burners themselves so there's no catching fire there. The rubber line runs from the regulator to a pipe manifold to 1/4 turn valves to the copper tubing. 

I have a pressure gage on the output side of the regulator, there is a gage fitting so there's nothing to make up. The first shut off valve screws directly into the output side of the  regulator. The propane hose connects directly to the valve. The other end connects to the manifold. The manifold on the 4 burner forge has a T fitting making up to the hose, a close nipple and another T on each end. This makes 4 open fittings each two get a street elbow and two straight to a shut off valve and they make up to the 1/4" copper. 

My 2 burner NARB forge makes up from the hose to a T, each leg of the T gets a shut off valve and makes up to copper tubing to the burners.

In either case the hose and valves are not in a high heat zone, everything that is exposed to high temps and flame is non-flammable in the extreme.

This is just how I manage my propane circuits around the fire and I feel reasonable safe even in the advent of a catastrophic failure.

Frosty The Lucky.

On 7/6/2023 at 11:42 AM, mr_daydream said:

Hey seagiantcan you tell me about the ball valve and hose you're using there? My Mr Volcano burner is exactly like yours up to the right-angled 1/8" "fuel pipe". I'm replacing the regulator and hose with one that has a 3/8" flare fitting but haven't be able to find the right kind of ball valve to pop in there between the "fuel pipe" and hose. @seagiant

Hi,

        The "goose neck" or bend on the newer burners are threaded 1/8"NPT, that means...

You can get fittings to up the plumbing to your own needle valve.

I went up to 1/4" NPT and then used a 1/4" NPT to gas flare fitting to connect the tank.

You can get the fittings at Lowes or ACE Hardware and the valves at Amazon...

Any needle valve should work.

 

I'm not sure if it's relevant in this situation, but be aware that needle valves introduce more restriction and are intended for control. I'm not saying a needle valve wouldn't work here, but if you want max flow, ball is better. 

Hi,

           Good info!

I'm trying to be frugal on gas but if I was trying to forge weld, would need to go to a ball valve.

The problem with the Mr. Volcano Ball Valve is that the end that takes the hose is a barb and solid so can not be removed.

A Needle Valve is what I had, so used it!

 

The barb-end was my problem too as my mesh-covered hose has a 3/8" FNPT connector. I had thought I could just pop into a hardware store and grab a 1/8" ball valve that's FNPT on both ends, then use the flare adapter that came with the hose (3/8" down to 1/8"), but that doesn't appear to be a very popular size. Have to order one to the store or roll the dice on a shady-looking seller on Amazon.

8 hours ago, Purple Bullet said:

I'm not sure if it's relevant in this situation, but be aware that needle valves introduce more restriction and are intended for control. I'm not saying a needle valve wouldn't work here, but if you want max flow, ball is better. 

 They are supposed to restrict flow; that is the very idea. Understand that a 1/4" valve, ball or otherwise, produces WAY more flow than is needed. The final gas orifice sizes are given in thousandths of and inch!

I recomend a MIG contact tip for 0.025 welding wire as the gas orifice in a Mikey 3/4" burner; that has an orifice diameter of 0.034". The amount of gas a burner puts out is controlled by the gas orifice diameter times the gas pressure. A Frosty "T" burners use a little larger orifice diameter and lower gas pressures.

14 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

They are supposed to restrict flow; that is the very idea.

Which is why I prefaced my statement with "I'm not sure its relevant in this situation". However, if you are regulating with a 0.025 orifice, do you need another manual flow control? If not, a shut off valve will give faster, surer stop and start of the flow. Not a big deal, as I said, it will work, I find that a lot of folks starting out don't realize the difference in valves.