Hi,

         Built a new Propane Forge to get back into making a few knives.

This was made from an old Johnsons File.

Thermo Cycled 3 times to refine the grain.

My idea of a Kitchen Knife, farm cut Red Oak scales and Loveless Bolts for handles.

 

Hi,

         Wow, 80 views and not one comment???

This HAS to be the place for feed back!

Thanks Boys and Girls!!

One xxxx of a Forum you have here!

Edited June 29, 20233 yr by Mod30
Language

There is an ebb and flow to all of life.  Sometimes it is busier than you can keep up with and other times it can be a little slower like when the ifi community is mourning the passing of one of their long time and very loved members. 

Knife looks nice from what i see. Lighting could be better to show the blade more clearly. 

No need to get upset. It is a wonderful forum to people with patience to learn. Not everything gets lots of oohs and ahhs here sometimes. patience and persistence. 

What feedback were you wanting? 

Okay, one comment coming up. Looks like a decent kitchen knife. Though you might want to cut the carrot instead of break it next time you take pics. It's not the best commentary on a blade. 

You might want to clean up your language, it's a family friendly site and the mods are zero tolerance.

Frosty The Lucky.

I have an Ontario Old Hickory chef's knife that could be it's mate. Very good style for most kitchen task's. Yours is just a little sweeter.

As of this post it has had 101 views and 4 reply's, must remember that there are about 150,000 members and 75K threads, 55,400 of them in Bladesmithing. Not every member that looks at a thread will comment on it (such is life). How many threads have you commented on since 2008?

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails. ~ Semper Paratus

OK, as you appear to be fishing for constructive criticism, here goes:

Things I like:

1. General fit and finish (Liners, pins, handle surface finish...)
2. Well blended grind with no plunge line or riccasso (my aesthetic preference for kitchen knives, but can be a challenge to execute well)
3. Material selection for blade and handle
4. Bevel at front of handle
5. Knife profile (but see below)

Things I think could use further refinement (hard to tell from photos in some cases, but I'm making assumptions):

1. Brut de Forge section at top of blade is irregular and doesn't look intentional
2. Jimping on spine is well executed, but I can't see the purpose it serves on a blade of this type.  The balance of the design is aggressively functional, so all elements should match IMHO
3. Handle could be a slight bit more ovoid for improved indexing
4. I think adding distal taper for the tang is a nice touch for both aesthetics and balance in hand. YMMV
5. Hard to tell from photos, but could be a "knuckle-bumper" when using to cut on a board.

Hi,

         Thank you, just what I was looking for, all good suggestions!

This is not a Chefs Knife but more a Kitchen Utility Knife, (maybe little difference on that, admittedly?)

A LOT of little things to work on and your suggestion help!

Still working on the handle part!

Thanks again!

 

Edited July 3, 20233 yr by Mod30
Remove excessive quote.

Hi,

        Two more knives, still trying to figure out the Handle shaping as I go.

These blades are forged from 1939 Studebaker Leaf Spring.

Thermo Cycled 3 times and quenched in warm ATF Fluid and then in the HT Oven at 400 Degrees for 2 hrs. x 2.

The Logo Stamp, from the Ukraine is working well and I like it.

 

Here are my honest 50cents

You try to keep it simple and grind thin edges that's good.Your intensions of making an effort of good heat treating, that is good as well.

But the tips of the blades have lots of room for improvement, they are dull, nearly round and the rear pin of the right knife seems out of the middle.

Leaf springs can be turned into knife blades but never make a great knife.They do not take a hardness( maybe 56- 58HRC) which requires such a high tempering.

My guess after 2 hours tempering in 400 degrees I wonder if they still have a hardness in the lower 50's hrc. that is tempered much to hot and too long.

Decent tough knife performance is on most tool steels is at 60 HRC +/-1 ...more wear resistance is with 63hrc.

 I would recommend you try to work with old files or blow shares rather than springs with that high ammount of Si...

Si reduces impact toughness, wear resistance and  forgeability and such a high amount has no benefits for knife blades....car springs and swords need elasticity but knives need toughness which are different things...

....and the pictures coud be done much better, they are simply not good. Photography needs some passion, perspektives, lighting and close up shots as well.

But all in a nutshell you are on the right track, keep it simple and  keep them coming....

I hope you can handle the well-intentioned criticism.

Great logo stamp!

Cheers

 

 

Hi,

          No, thanks, other opinions is what,I'm looking for.

Admittedly, trying to work some things out, and the only way I know is to keep working on it!

The problem now is I do not have a power hammer, or young anymore, so might have to buy steel closer to size to what I want to make. (instead of having to draw out the steel on the anvil)

Might have to go to 1084 or 5160.

Thanks again!

Interesting makers mark. However if your intent is to start selling knives in the future you might consider including your name somewhere on the blade. Without a name I have hunt to find the maker since there are no official makers marks registries. Countless times I've seen someone wanting to buy a knife but they had to ask who made it because all it had was a cool mark on it

Hi,

         Thanks, I made and sold knives, 20 years ago, mostly Hunters and Fighters...

Even made Pattern Welded and San Mai types... ( when I had a Power Hammer!)

I just like a Mark and that works for me, not really looking to make money but just to support the habit.

Would like a real VFD Horz. Grinder, and a few other things, we will see?

 

 

Hi,

         Another Kitchen Knife for a Friend.

File steel, with Red Oak Handle and Nickel Silver Pins.