Ok I am setting myself up for a fall with a topic title like that but here goes….

stand in operating mode

Moving stand around sho

p

lifting block with crane 

 

the pole is a bit thin wall, while it lifts the block is is a bit flexible. This will be replaced by a scaffold pole which will be more suitable. 
the block is supported by adjustable feet and only runs on the wheels when jacked up

The part below the block is the original cast iron stand with horizontal and vertical positions

Uh well . . .  Using fall  and swage block in the same sentence is asking for trouble! Never tempt mother nature  like that! 

You made the frame under the block's stand yes? I would've put another receiver tube on the frame and used a bridge to support the hoist cable, it could be light weight and easily collapsible. 

I use a piece of 1/2" round bar with a little stirrup jog in the center connected to a short length of cable to hitch mine to the engine hoist. The bar will pass through all but the smallest through holes and then hangs crossways on the cable. Removing it is as simple as dropping the cable through the hole and picking it up off the floor. 

I like your stand, I wish mine were that easy to move. A floor jack is WAY easier to maneuver than my engine hoist. 

Frosty The Lucky.

What's the provision for standing the block on edge?

I did consider a gantry style structure, and while this is structurally much better, you do not have the flexibility to move the crane in an arc. This allows you to move the block about a bit easier and (if you are careful!) off the stand.

2 minutes ago, JHCC said:

What's the provision for standing the block on edge?

The cast stand has a recess for putting the block on edge. I plan to make a lifting sling that will allow the transition from horizontal to vertical.

I like it! That’s a cool setup! Makes me jealous lol

i got mine setting in one of my sand stands currently,

True that, a gantry isn't very flexible. I am so spoiled by the engine hoist, it's one of the best $50 I ever spent at a garage sale.

My swage block stand is six, 7" x 9" guardrail posts through bolted together with 1/2" all thread. two are cut shorter so it makes a step. The block lays flat across the four tall ones and stands on edge on the lower two. I change the block's position with a pinch bar, lift and lay it flat, or tip it on edge with the pinch bar through one of the through holes. If I lift at one side I can rotate from one edge to the next.

It scared me for being unstable, especially standing on edge but it's been standing there since before 2,000 and gone through two 7+ quakes and numerous 5+ a year I don't think we get a 6+ every year but I could be wrong. 

It has to be the sketchiest swage block stand I've ever seen but darned if it doesn't work really well. Go figure.

This is probably the best pic I have of it, such as it is.

Frosty The Lucky.

Proof is in the using! If it works then it’s successful.

On 10/3/2022 at 5:01 PM, Frosty said:

has to be the sketchiest

Jerry,

there’s something wrong with your post vise!!!

But it’s so pretty!

(Was the picture taken right after you finished the paint?)

My other one more than makes up for it Billy.

Yeah I leaned it there to finish drying while I finished the portable stand and let the paint cure for a few weeks. Darned paycheck job took up so much time. 

Frosty The Lucky.

You’re just an over achiever!
tryin to make us rusty vise people look bad! Shame on you Jerry! 

IIRC, ViCopper took his vise down to bare metal and shined it up and heat coloured it; before clear coating it.   Me, I brush any loose rust off and oil/grease it and get to work with them...

Ditto... in rust we trust.

I couldn't find rust in my shop colors and I didn't want my vise going the way of so many of my tools in the shop I was renting space in. Talk about bad deals.

Frosty The Lucky.

So I completed the project by making a block lifting tool to fit in either the centre hole to lift the block evenly, or one

of outside holes to change orientation 

Looks good. How do you like it, convenient? Any ideas for a next version? 

Frosty The Lucky.

Next version…….ha ha! All seems to work ok. You need to be careful when winding the cable back on the winch spool as it is easy to kink the wire. This is a bit frustrating, but the only real alternative is to use my pull lift instead, which means lifting it in place each time.

That's a common problem for little hand crank winches like that. If you put a simple friction brake on the first sheave the cable passes through after the winch it will prevent slack cable on the drum. A two piece clothes pin will work as an example. If it's by the first sheave it will have enough room to coil evenly on the drum. I've used a rag rapped around the cable in a pinch but any broken wires will shred a friction brake. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks. Good idea

You're welcome, I learned it from a logger who used more winches in a day than I've used ever. Some worked close to the drum but don't for hand cranks. One was two round bars space a little farther than the cable Dia. The cable is threaded over then under or vis versa. It provides enough friction to  prevent slack on the drum and the cable can move back and forth on the bars so it winds evenly. 

Now you have me thinking about cable / drum  tensioners I'll probably remember the things for a while now. <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.