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We use the term "Mill Balls"  for use in ball mills.  They come in a number of sizes depending on what is being crushed---pulverizing coal starts out with huge ones and throws them away when they get down to a couple of inches.  A company that makes them is just off I10 at the Vinton exit just west/north of El Paso, TX: Vinton Steel LLC  "Makers of grinding media for the mining industry".

Yes they are generally sold at inflated prices as Civil War cannonballs; even though the size of civil war cannons was standardized and almost NONE of the mill balls match a standard size!  (Was at the Flea Market in Las Cruces once and a fellow was selling mill balls at US$1 apiece; two lanes over someone was selling them as cannon balls for US$30 apiece...

When welding on them: PREHEAT and SLOW COOL,  Used balls may have a lot of stress built up in their outer "shell".

The Vinton Steel LLC website says they make 1/2" to 4" diameter balls and they have the MSDS that has all sorts of interesting information in it (The form is designed for chemicals so a lot of the listing is a bit odd like "Inhalation of rebar and grinding balls"  Skin contact---Nickel, manganese and chromium sensitivities warned, etc.)

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The 2 commonest cannon using round ball projectiles during the American Civil War were the 6 and 12 pounder guns which had a caliber (diameter of ball) of 3.67" and 4.61" respectively.  So, if a round ball is not one of these diameters it is unlikely to be an actual cannon ball.  Also, civil war cannon balls were made of cast iron.  Mill balls are made of steel.  A spark test will tell them apart.

There are other calibers but these are by far the commonest.  Earlier, e.g. US Revolutionary War, guns had other calibers such as 2, 4, 9, 16, and 18 pound balls.  Naval, siege, and coastal defense guns were usually larger calibers because the guns did not have to be hauled around over the country as did field artillery.

Shells, which explode, are lighter because they are hollow for an explosive filling but have the same diameter.  They also have a hole in the side for the fuze.  The civil war era ones had a threaded fuze hole about an inch and half in diameter.  If one of these is encountered, particularly if the fuze is in place, it should be treated as live because the explosive (black powder) may well still be intact.  There are ways to disarm them but there have been fatal accidents.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Rev war cannon balls often show long exposure to the elements too. (Note corrosion can change the size both up and down!)

Size is the fasted way to check a "find" at a fleamarket. The spark test works well for things in your shop.

Out here in mining country when you find balls used as finials on fenceposts or other places you generally assume they are mill balls.

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  Irondragon, I am near Seagrove, NC and they have a LOT of pottery shops.  I've visited some and their work is fantastic.  I did not see any mill balls though.  Another potential resource..... :)

  TW, you are making some nice tools and I didn't mean to steer your thread off into mill ball land!

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  • 10 months later...

I have a set of 3# hammers for forging sucker rod, lol. One is a big radius cross pein, the second is a like radius cross pein and the third is round. They all are simple bald rounds ground from double jacks. They do an excellent job of drowning out large diameter sucker rod over the horn. 
I use the largest diameter for bics. Forging the coller down to 1” is the biggest pain. Forgot and cold hardiest I actually use the treaded end on the medium size stock (1” square) forging the transition on the rod end down square is easier than the flange and the treads just grind off when you sharpen it. I just let it fan out and then grind them much like an axe. 

 

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Nice bickern Randy but you make it sound like they  have a power hammer in the local ER. It gave me an entertaining mental image of you yelling out, "Nurse, FLATTER, STAT!"

Nice start on a Sunday morning, thanks.

Frosty The Lucky.

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