Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 I've been saying I'm not burning up my steel...............but I ruined (burnt up) two tong halves I've been making. Honestly didn't think my forge was that hot. And I'm so new to this that I was shocked when someone told me the other day here on the forum that my steel won't get any hotter than the forge (DUH ) if I leave a piece in longer than necessary. I hadn't thought of that. (double-DUH ) That's why Thomas said I could work two pieces and not be afraid of burning them up! (Do I have to keep smacking myself in the forehead???) Okay, so my forge color is Bright Yellow. In fact, I can crank it up so high you can't even see any texture on the walls. (White Hot !) So where do I want the temperature of my forge to be burning? I read somewhere that forging temps are 1300-1500 degrees. Looking at a color chart, I find it hard to believe I could get steel to even begin to move at 1500 degrees. I definitely quit hitting the steel at about 1300 degrees. (by the color charts) I'm laying my ignorance out on the table here, so don't beat me to death. I just need some guidance. I can set it for the actual temperature, if I just knew what it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Different steels have different working temperatures. What steel are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 3/4" square hot rolled mild steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 I like high orange to mid yellow for forging mild steel. Why are you using such thick stock, you're only making tongs right now aren't you? 3/4" round would be okay, I like 5/8" square for tongs so 3/4" round is close enough to same weight per foot to call the same. Forging 3/4" down to a reasonable mass for tongs is a lot of work without a striker or power hammer. I think I'd put it back on the steel rack an get me something more reasonable size. Right now you''re having to go back to the fire so many times just scale is taking a bunch of your steel. Lighter stock will move more easily and you can build muscle and accuracy while successfully making tools. Yeah, a LOT of folks make tongs from 1/2" sq. and they work well. 5/8" gives us a little more room to make mistakes and still salvage usable tongs plus the mass gives you a few more blows before it needs to go back to the fire. Chris, your forge is SCREAMING HOT you can turn it down. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 Thanks, Frosty. I thought 3/4" was what most people used for tongs. I've got some 5/8" sq.............and would be more than happy to be beating on that instead. I'll try that next time. But are you saying 1700-1800 degrees for forging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Make me search out a chart to put a number on a color will you? I should make you search out a kelvin to fahrenheit conversion table! I'll save that one as a reason to twit you on something else, catch you by surprise. Yeah, about there, call it 1650 to 1800 maybe more, depending on what I'm doing. I might soak heavier stock to high yellow if I had to do some serious resizing to make a preform. Say the shank on a bottom tool. For most work in about that range is good. I'll planish and such much cooler, even way into black heat but that's finishing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 Okay, I think I'm beginning to see the errs in my journey. Thanks, Frosty. I'll pull out my meter and see if I can set my propane and air to hit in that range. Then I'll have to re-get used to the new "normal" color and sound in my forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Forging temps is another reason I don't suggest people "practice" bladesmithing with mild steel. Most HC steels don't get worked at as high a temp as you can work mild AND you have to stop forging them at a *higher* temp than you do true mild steel. (Particularly annoying as HC steels tend to be "harder" under the hammer and so higher temps would seem to be a good thing...) As I came in through bladesmithing I really have to sit on my instincts/habits when I work real wrought iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyGoatLady Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Sounds like you should be able to easily forge weld. You built a good one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 Yep, Chellie. I designed it for Damascus work.................and while I've not done any yet, I've no doubt it'll do it just fine. After being scolded for running my forge too danged hot and burning metal up, I pulled out my digital lab thermometer and adjusted the burn temperature for 1750 degrees. I was running it almost White Hot. DUH!!!!! It's a fair amount quieter and I can actually look inside now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Propane will last a bit longer too. With my new burners I turn them up till the forge is at temp and then run with them turned so far down any further I'd have burner issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 I can only imagine the tank will last longer. I know it's only a relative thing, but I turned the gas tank gauge down from 1 1/2 pounds to 1 pound...............and lowered the fan volume a LOT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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