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Propane forge help

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Having trouble getting welding heat and also difficult to light until it warms up. Let me know I’m doing wrong. 30-60 psi of propane. Thanks guys.

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Well, I'm certainly no expert...............they'll all jump in after I post! :D  But the first thing I notice is you've used hard refractory bricks.  About all they'll do is soak up all your heat.  I'd change all those out for the soft insulating bricks.

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Welcome aboard, have you read this yet?  READ THIS FIRST   it will help you get the best out of the forum with tips like editing your profile to show your location, how to do an effective search and keep off the moderators radar.:)

30-60 psi seems very high to me, I don't see a regulator or gauge in the system so how do you determine the pressure? The bricks are a heat sink and take a long time to come up to temperature without insulation. Have you read any of forges 101?

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Everything they said! Seriously though soft bricks and a coat of Matrikote 90 or Plistix and you will be so much better off :D

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Before you change those bricks...

Tuning the burner up to a neutral flame will cost a lot less money. You might want to start there; just a thought.

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Those T:s on the burners seem to have the same size openings all around, if I remember correctly the recommendation is to have the two inlets one size larger than the mixing tube. 
Also, with the burners close together and two T openings turned towards each other they may affect air flow into the other burner. I'd turn them  something like 90 degrees - don't know if it'll make a difference, but it's generally a good idea to keep it clear around most kinds of air inlets if you want good flow.

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18 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

Tuning the burner up to a neutral flame will cost a lot less money. 

Can you describe a neural flame and where to start adjusting?

another thing I was wandering and it might be way off but can I Satanite and tc 100 over my bricks? 
 

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Sure you can...............but they'll still be acting as a huge heatsink.

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A neutral flame is generally light to medium blue, without an hint of green in it. Also, the better the primary flame envelope the smaller the secondary flame. will be.

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I would NOT use ITC 100... Matrikote or Plistix are going to be much better for your (hopefully) future k26 soft bricks. Itc100 is a big waste of money for what you are doing.

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All the materials are so expensive. Where is the best place to buy? Can’t decide on blankets or bricks...

what’s the most affordable way to get this done?

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Shall we rephrase that as: "I'm willing to spent 10 times more on fuel than on proper refractories cause I want to save money!"

You may be able to get free kaowool right over there if you talk with them and let them know what you are trying to do.

If cost is the primary factor; then a JABOD with home made charcoal will be the cheapest way to go.

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Okay k26 brick installed and in the process of refractory order. Next question. How deep does the tip of the flare need to penetrate the forge? Right now I have it set flush with the inside face of the liner...as mentioned before lots of trouble getting it to light. After it warms up for 5-10 minutes it’s easier to light. Thoughts?

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The flame retention nozzle (were the flame comes out) should be recessed back up within the brick about 1"; to help beep it from overheating.

K26 brick has many strengths and one glaring weakness; it is spongy. That is to say K26 brick has surfaces wide open to flame; not good. You would be well served to coat the surfaces that are exposed to the forge's internal atmosphere to either Plistix or some other refractory coating.

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Getting a lot better. Swapped mig tips to .035 and was able to have a nice working temp at 8 psi. Lights up easy now. Work in progress.

thanks for the help

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