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Cliff Carroll Anvil Stump & other adjustable anvils stands with pins

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Has anyone tried the Cliff Carroll Anvil Stump?  I don't really like the price on it, but I think it looks really nice and like the idea of adjustable height.  I don't know how well those aluminum legs hold up with pins to set the height over time.  I would think the holes could oval with using it as a light blacksmithing portable stand.

It looks like Emerson and Delta make stands about the same as well.

Commercial link removed.

I'm probably going to make my own stand, but I do wish I could find a use CC anvil stump cheap, but also don't know how well they hold up over time either.  I can see places listing them for sale, but I can't really find reviews on them.  All the places with them for sale seemed to have copy and pasted the same sales ad as well.

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Are you a horse shoe'r?  It seems to be optimized for Farriers and not for blacksmiths.  I'd spend the extra $300 on a better anvil and just make a stump for yourself.  They don't have to be fancy to work really really well!  I have several I have made from scrap wood from a horse trailer, bolts from the scrapyard that came off utility poles and used an electricians drill bit to drill the stack before running the bolts through.  The "rustic Vigor" school of things.  If I had planed the wood and glued it together and skipped the bolts it would be the fancy school of things.

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I am a farrier and I am with TP. We have articles on making 3 legend stands on here. My self, made my stand from 1- 1/2x1/4” angle formed into a square and 1-1/2” thinwall square legs cut at 22-1/2deg  and a bit of 5/16” rod. I inserted a bit off hard pallet  the feet are large washers with a hole drilled in them to stake down when nesisary (not nesisary to forge shoes but when you get wild it tends to move). 

All the material came out of my “hoard” so I am only out consumables. 

Heavier solid plate tops and larger heavy wall pipe filled with oiled sand and bolted to the slab are recommended if it’s not a mobile setup. 



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That is a really nice set up Charles.

I'm not going to lie, if that Cliff Carroll thing was a $100 or more so cheaper I would probably get it so I could spend time forging instead of building a stand.  Still kind of curious of how well they work out with aluminum legs, but I think the wood top looks really nice.

I'll probably keep with my original plan and get some tubing and build my own stand, just need to clean up the garage a bit to do that.  (I do my forging out in the backyard).  I'll keep it simple and just build a fixed height stand.

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Rather than mess with adjusting the anvil height just set it to YOUR right height and start using it. Buy a 4" x 4" cut it into sections that will put the anvil face about your wrist height. Determine that by standing relaxed in the shoes you'll be wearing (LEATHER!) with your hammer hand hanging at your side. Measure from your wrist to the ground. That is your departure point. From there subtract the height of your anvil (face to foot distance) from your wrist height and cut your 4" x 4"s that length. 

You can get all kinds of neat'O tricksy with the lengths so the stand holds the anvil like it's built in but to start just make them all the same length. Some "Weldwood" or Elmer's "Carpenter's" glue and a handfull of 6" wood screws. For the screw heads on the surface of the stand I counter boar half an inch or so large enough for a washer the wood screw fits. I like the hole in the washer wide enough a counter sink screw head nests in it, it makes it self centering.

Drill the counter bore FIRST, then drill the screw holes, 3-4 screws per piece. Make sure the ends of the timbers are even and paint the joining surfaces with glue then screw them together. Done deal. You'll need to secure the anvil to the stand and there are a number of ways and most work pretty well. 

The timbers on end provide the best support for a built up lumber anvil stand. 

Just don't try for THE PERFECT anvil stand, they're easy to build to suit you. If this one is a little low you can put a piece of plywood under it, too high you can stand on a piece of plywood. These aren't permanent adjustments they're just to give YOU a chance to learn what works best for you. Leave the fancy high tech adjustable tool stands for when you actually need one. Make sense?

Frosty The Lucky.

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You can always add a pallet for folks shorter than you to stand on or to put the anvil stand on for y’all folks (tho bending ones knees solves that problem. 

Thats the light one. The 120# Is more substantially mounted. 

Shaping shoes isn’t really heavy forging (2# rounding hammer) but aluminum legs with steel pins are going to waller out the pin holes eventually.

Thanks John

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For a couple of my stands I salvaged some 2" x 12"? oak boards from a scrapped horse trailer.  (Free as the scrapyard doesn't like non metal stuff on their scrap!)  Cut them to length---I used a saws-all as I have a dirt floor and so a bit of play in the kerf was OK and I had demolition blades that dealt with old dirty oak. I dug a straight piece of I beam from my scrap pile and set it so the thin edges were up and stacked the boards side by side on it and used a couple of pipe clamps to hold them together, trued them up a bit with a hammer and square and then drilled all the way through them with an electricians bit---pulling out the cuttings as I went along.  I had some utility pole fittings, large eyebolts and some road guard rail bolts from when someone took out the one over the arroyo and they just tossed the old one in the arroyo when they replaced it...anyway they both fit the holes I drilled and I bolted the stands up tight.

Funny thing is that one of the stands has gone missing but the anvils are still here!

Here's an example:  The bolts protrude under the horn and heel and so far have made nice handles for moving it and haven't caused any problems running into them---being in the "shadow" of the anvil so to speak.  This one the end boards are an inch higher and I chiseled slightly on them so the grab the anvil's base.


The trailer was left outside in the sun and rain long enough the boards don't even smell!

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