Justin Topp Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I’m new here so go easy My very first forged hammer was a soft hammer made from 1-1/4” square a36. I made it because using my hot cut if I miss I fill the hot cut but with this the hammer takes most of the damage. Also for punches and stuff so I’m not hitting hard steel on hard steel. It is about 1.5 lbs. my drift isn’t great I made it and it’s square shaped hole more than oval. My second hammer I’ve forged is a 2.2 lb straight peen from a digging bar that’s between 1070-1080 from my research. It was around 1-3/8” round stock. I’ve used it primarily for about two months and it works great. Things could be better but it works well. I just made a pair of hammer tongs so I don’t need to struggle with holding the stock anymore while forging. I’m going to forge a new drift from a truck axel and make a spring fuller. I also need to make a better punch. My current is an old 5/8” handled punch I put a point on because it was cracked. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Looks good to me. If you like it, that's all that counts. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Thanks Chris! -Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 I’m by no means an expert, but I wouldn’t worry about the drift being rectangular. Just make sure it has good radii at the corners. I personally prefer a more rectangular eye. It’s easier for me the fit the handle if I can just plane a rectangular tapper on the handle, then just round the corners. Enjoy, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 17 minutes ago, Goods said: Just make sure it has good radii at the corners. Yup it’s got rounded corners 19 minutes ago, Goods said: It’s easier for me the fit the handle if I can just plane a rectangular tapper on the handle, then just round the corners. I didn’t even think of that. I had extra handles so I used them. My current drift has a hair line crack down the length so I need to make a new one anyhow -Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Justin Your hammer looks good to me. I also have just made my first hammer. When drifting the eye I used a friends elongated oval drift and it kept twisting in the hammer head. We couldn't keep the drift indexed to the hammer so we stopped while it still had a small off hole which was twisted off center. My favorite hammer currently is a straight peen with a rectangular eye so I made a drift with the same dimensions. I cheated and drilled a small hole to start with and ground the drift to self align after the initial hit The chisel tip and the tapered point on the side keep the rectangle indexed once you start. It worked well ! The dimensions are 3/4 x 1-1/4 with radiuses at the corner. That size is a commercially available handle size if you don't want to start from scratch. I made the drift from a 6' long rock digging bar. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Good Morning Crew, There is no such thing as 'Cheating'. It is just different approaches to get the final Product. Tom Clark showed us that drilling 3, 1/4" holes where you want the 'Handle Hole' stops the punch and drift from wandering. K.I.S.S Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Swede Although I am an experienced welder and fabricator, I am a novice blacksmith! I am not even smart enough to know how much I don't know! When faced with how to keep the drifted eye from wandering this drift is the solution I came up with. The hammer head that I made was not only the first hammer head but was the first thing I have ever forged! I plan on posting some pics on a separate post. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Guard, nice looking hammers and tongs Crew, I’ve only made a few hammers and am no where near being an expert, but when I took my class on making them we were instructed to hit the punch twice then turn the hammer 180 and hit twice, correcting as we go to keep the punch straight and centered. Driving the punch 3/4 through before flipping it over and punching through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 Crew I like the drift! I’ve always thought a oval was superior to square I’m not sure why a rectangle would be bad. Might have to make up a drift like that Thanks Les ive also been taught hit twice and rotate. But I usually do the first few hits alternating between sides, one hit then flip. Until I have a good hole then I do the 2 hits. Charcoal powder is important to keep the punch from sticking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 Justin It was easy to make and easy to use. The rectangle hole puts the larger amount of wood in the eye in line with the blow. It has worked well for years with the hammer that I copied the eye dimension from. Les I didn't use that hammer technique but did flip the head at about 3/4 through and finish the hole. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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