latvius Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 I'm talking about cord wrapping the handle like a knife handle? Would it make it easier to hold in the hand or more trouble than it is worth? Quote
larrynjr Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 I think it would depend on the diameter of your handle and the size of your hand. I think the additional friction might cause extra blisters too. Quote
HWooldridge Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 My grandfather was a 'smith in his early life and became a carpenter in his 30's. Of course, both trades required swinging a hammer so I asked him once about roughing up an axe handle. I had gotten a job as a teenager clearing a vacant lot and bought myself a brand new axe for the task. His response was that you want a handle silky smooth because anything rougher will tear the skin as it slips through your hands. I did not take his advice and cut a bunch of finger grooves in my axe handle. At the end of the first day, my hands were bleeding. He promptly went to the hardware store, bought a replacement handle and installed it on the head. He then sanded and whiskered it smooth like a gun stock and finished it with some Danish wax he kept in the shop. I had no more trouble with my hands and learned a good lesson - so all of my hammer handles are shaved thin and sanded smooth as a girl's face. If you are having trouble hanging on the hammer, leave a small swell at the very end of the handle. This will help it catch in your fingers and be less tiring by day's end. Knives and guns and such tools do not slip in the hand like a hammer. I personally do not think you will like a handle wrap for the reasons I've stated - but it would be easy to try and no harm done except for some leather wasted. Quote
Finnr Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Smoother the better for my hammers. I treat the handles like I would a fine gunstock. Sand whisker, sand more the oil the living beejeebers out them. Finnr Quote
dablacksmith Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 i put a little beeswax on the handle if ime thinking its too smooth.. dont think ide braid it... Quote
rthibeau Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 On hammers that I don't use frequently or for long sessions that the handle was too small ('cause I over sanded it), I've wrapped them with leather and they work fine. But if it was a hammer I was going to use a lot...I'd change out the handle to a better one. Quote
Dodge Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 My dad used to "dimple" his hammer handles with a drill. Looked cool and he thought it gave him a better grip, but he wasn't a blacksmith. He was a wrencher, and a German wrencher at that. What do they know about hammers He used to tell me about the German POWs we brought to the US in WWII and how the craftsmen of various trades would cut the handles off their hammers so they wouldn't be tempted to use them. That story, whether true or not, used to make me laugh till tears ran from my eyes. Anyway, I tried one of those dimpled hammers when I became a welder/fitter and lucky I wore gloves, because I could feel every dimple by the end of the day. From then on, whenever a new guy would come in the shop and try to act like he knew more than us senior fitters, I would highly recommend the dimples. They'd figure it out in a day or two. We called it "learning curve" LOL Quote
matt87 Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 I like them smooth, and wooden. (Ooo er, Missus!) I find that even something like a small chip or split in the wrong place can be uncomfortable within seconds. (Smooth down to 0-size wirewool and raw linseed oil for me!) Quote
MooseRidge Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 My handles are smooth, larger than "normal" to fill my hand, and flared at the end... I found that smaller handles cause my hands to cramp as I have to squeeze tighter to keep control.... plus my hands sweat and the flare prevents losing the hammer..... Quote
Dave Leppo Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 i'VE GOT A CLAW HAMMER I INHERITED FROM MY GRANDPA. I'TS GOT A RUBBER COLLAR ON THE END, I THINK MADE FROM A BIKE INNERTUBE; ABOUT 1"LG. KEEPS THE HAMMER FROM SLIPPING OUT OF YOUR HAND. WORKS GOOD FOR CARPENTRY, BUT I HAVN'T USED IT FOR SMITHING. Quote
Hofi Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 BP1012 Making Hammer Handles Written by HOFI TRY THIS BP IT EXPLAINS MY WAY HOFI Quote
welder19 Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 As a blacksmith or anyone else who uses a hammer or similar handled tool all day or atleast for long periods, the smoother the better but as a diesel mechanic I do like to put some grooves in my hammer handles since when using them I usually have grease, oil, sweat or a combination of them all on my hands and they tend to slip a lot easier, but when I use them at those times it is only for a few blows at a time so they will not have any ill effects on my hands....not that it probably would any way being someone who rarely ever wears gloves (even though I should, I know) my hands are a little like leather covered steal. When swinging a hammer for long periods you want the handle to slide some in your hand not just for the sake of your skin but also because it makes it a smother motion giving more power in your blow as well as being easier on your joints and muscles. I speak from expirience of elbow and shoulder problems, I have had surgery on my right elbow and will need it on my shoulder some day. welder19 Quote
nett Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Uri, I've read that blueprint more than once and have borrowed from it. I do not make one hundred handles a day but I am getting faster at making one or two at a time because I have control over what I'm sculpting. My last handles were made of Osage Orange from my wood pile and am very happy with the results. Note to myself: stop burning Osage Orange. I really like your idea of using Sikaflex Quote
AdrianWood Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 On some of the hammers i use less frequently i use tennis racket tape. it is very good at gripping, absorbs some of the shocks and so far i have had no blisters, cuts or abrasions. Seems to work ok for me, i guess it is what you get used to. Quote
Hofi Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 NETT, I use WD-40 BECAUSE OS SEVERAL REASONS 1 IT IS VERY EASY TO USE 2 IT IS BEEN SUCKED BY THE WOOD VERY FAST AND DEEP 3 IT DRYES VERY FAST 4 IT IS CHEAP 5 IT IS N O T LEAVING ANY STICKY LYER 6 I DO IT ONLY ONCE IN A HENDLE LIFE TIME 7 THE WAY I (SWING -HOLD) ''GUIDE'' THE HAMMER I LIKE THE HENDLE TO BE AS SMOOSE AS POSIBLE FROM THE LONG USE IT IS EVEN SHINY AND AS THIN AS POSIBLE AGAIN. SOME TIMES I AM JOACKING THAT IN 200 YEARS OF FORGING MY HAMMER WILL BE '' HENDLE LESS'' HOFI Quote
nett Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Makes sense, Uri. After investigating WD40, I find you are essentially finishing the wood with mineral oil that is diluted to be absorbed quickly into the wood. And after the initial application, you maintain the finish with nose and elbow grease (body oils and hard work), and over time you develop a rich patina and feel that money can't buy. I like.WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are: 50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- somewhat similar to kerosene) 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-%: Inert ingredients Quote
Hofi Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Nett , that is the reason I do not wash my hands along the forging day !!!!!!!! The body ''oils'' with the coal very fine dust is creating the best ''hand cream '' protection. When U look at the hands U see that they are SHINY ,like they have a protection lyer.THEN the hand and the hammer hendle do not have friction at all !!!!!!!!!! and if u know how to guid the hammer one do not need this friction HOFI Hofi Quote
Feukair Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 I made my own hammer handles on the lathe and i left them pretty thick compared to normal handles. I don't have large hands, normal sized hands i guess... but I like the thicker handles, they fill my hand and i feel like i have more control while hammering. I do keep them smooth though... Quote
pete46 Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 The rectangle Hofi handle works like magic! TRY IT YOU'LL LIKE IT! Quote
nett Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 Some of us choose an octagonal handle. I guess it's kinda like a rectangular handle but with VERY soft edges. I also prefer the adze eye for a hammer if given a choice, but considering I entered the Smithing shop through the woodworking shop might explain it. Quote
Feukair Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 I can see where a rectangle or oblong octoganal handle would be better. You can feel the position of the hammer head in your hand. My handles are almost round. Quote
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