Howdy folks,

been looking for an anvil and I MIGHT have hit the jackpot. This guy says he has a Lewis anvil (doesn't sound like he know's exactly what he's got), and he's selling it for $1 per lb. I need some better pictures, but from the ones below, can y'all tell if it's too pitted/chipped on the top to be worth the buy?

thanks

 

 

 

It's an old English anvil. Looks like it has some significant chipping on one side, but If it passes the ring and rebound tests, I'd say it's probably in good enough shape for $1/lb to still be a good deal. Doesn't really look like a 350lber to me, but my eyes could be playing tricks... Snatch in up good and quick, if it is for sale on a public site and you have done the research to know you want it.

Is the weight stamping 3   0   14   if so then 336 + 14 == 350; check ring and rebound and if they pass snatch it! (offer $300 first...)

Will do, I'll check the weight. Could you give me the quick rundown on the ring/rebound test?

when unconstrained that style of anvil should have a clear TING when tapped with a hard faced hammer.  It should also pop that hammer back up at you.

A dull sound or even worse a buzz means there is a crack in the anvil. A less than peppy rebound can mean that the anvil has lost it's temper sometime in it's history.

The ball bearing test is a more objective test of the rebound.

here is an over-scientifically set of rebound tests: basically measuring what percentage a ball bearing (hardened steel ball) will bounce back. check all over the face, not just one spot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ne7n_nnqko

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WGgo1ldhu4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuhhYdA9EyQ

 

Thanks all, I bought! It's a 250 Lewis anvil (if any of yall have heard of that brand).

Sweet! Interesting markings. I would have assumed that "LEWIS" was stamped in at a later date, except for the fact that the letters are so bold (instead of thin and shallow).

Appears to say: Warranted, Best, Tredin below. I thought I recognized those markings from a recent thread...

 

At $1.40 a pound you still did well. I hope you have read enough threads to know any milling/grinding on the hard face will hurt the anvil. A good wire wheeling, coating of BLO and hot steel hammered on it is all that's needed.

Thanks! I'm happy with it. I've started to wire wheel it and it's bringing the life back already. 

As far as the BLO, does the anvil need to be heated at all for it to dry and not be sticky or literally just dab and wipe?

No need to heat it. I just wipe it on with a rag.

52 minutes ago, AggieBlacksmith said:

As far as the BLO,

 

Mr. Dragon is right as usual.

But if you, (Mr. Aggie),  are worried about residual moisture try this hack  (truc).

Wipe the anvil with some alcohol. Rubbing  or denatured ethanol will work just fine.

Alcohol-water mixtures evaporate much faster than water alone.

This alcohol trick works really for intricate objects, that have hard to reach spaces.  Tools Like a fine file etc. where moisture can linger in tight spaces.

Regards to all the gang,

SLAG.