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sword making. what steel to use?


wulfgar

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Hello again to everyone:) My questions for the day can hopefully be answered. I am pretty new to smithing and my only guidence is a book written by Jim Hrisoulas 'The Complete Bladesmtih.' So what I am wondering is what is RCH? Also what is recommended as the best steel to use for making a functional sword. Would old leaf springs be a good choice? Do the stay strong and hold an edge? Or is there a better choice for steel to use for swords? Lastly, in his book he lists a steel called 'Vasco wear' which is something I've never heard of. Is it easy to obtain and is it good for sword making? Any advice at all is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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i have a large machete and a monster bowie knife out of 5160 leaf springs from a truck, both work well and hold a pretty good edge. the vasco wear i hear is very hard to work with and if you are a new to blacksmithing i would suggest something simple like the 10xx
series of steels, or maybe o1 and 5160 are easy to work with.

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Wulfgar, Put in a search for free books on the web in this forum. There is a thread in Blacksmithing that has links to google books online free. Between whats on this site and what's on there it will help you alot. I know this isn't the answer to your question but it may help you get over the begginners blues.
Travis

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Wulfgar, BEST is a tricky concept; best for WHAT? Creating a hamon?, flexibility for a rapier or cavalry sabre?, easiest for a new person to work? Best "bang for the buck"? "Best" is meaningless without the details.

Would you be happy if we suggesed an alloy that would cost $10,000 and had to be worked in an inert atmosphere with computerized heating furnace---it might be "best".

If you are getting started and want to make european swords or non-traditionally made japanese swords 5160 is a good alloy to start with. It is often used for car springs; however if you get a used spring you cannot usually tell how it might have been abused---it may have micro cracking that forging will not correct but heat treat will often show---after you have spent the many hours of working forging and grinding on it. I suggest finding a place that makes replacement springs and see if you can buy fresh new *straight* pieces of steel. Note that swords are a lot of forging and so you will want to buy metal that is as close to shape as you can as the distal tapering and bevelling will be enough of a work out as it is---unless you have a powerhammer.

If you want to go a bit more upscale L6 can do lovely things in a swordblade and is not as hard to work as the high alloy steels.

Vasco wear is not a suitable alloy for swords and will kill you with the grinding as well.

If you want to get into differential hardening and toward more traditionally made japanese blades 1050 is a good alloy until you can arrange for tamahagane or orishnagane.

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Hello again to everyone:) My questions for the day can hopefully be answered. I am pretty new to smithing and my only guidence is a book written by Jim Hrisoulas 'The Complete Bladesmtih.' So what I am wondering is what is RCH?


Wulfgar,
I noticed that no one answered your initial question. Not being fully versed in the mysteries of all things ferrous, sharp, and pointy, I had to refresh my memory with the help from my mentor, Mr. Google ;) RCH stands for Rockwell C Hardness. This is the industry's standard to measure the hardness of steel.

Others,
If this information is inaccurate, please help with the corrections :)
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I am pretty new to smithing Any advice at all is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Pretty new to smithing = swords and other blades are far down the road on the learning curve. In R.A. Salvatore's writings, Wulfgar had a wonderful war hammer...not a sword....hammers are a far better item to start with and are more useful to boot. Do the sord thing later. My two cents worth....
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Lately there have been alot of questions in the forum from folks new to smithing. That is simply wonderful as it shows that there is a growing interest in the craft. This site has a weath of knowledge both in past writings and in the answers that are given to questions like yours. However keep in mind that there are other great methods of finding information. I gooled Vasco wear and it has a lot on the material. You have the book from JPh that a lot of us consider one of the leading authors on this subject. May I suggest that you start with more basic items . Getting stasrted on the main page will give you some ideas on how to begin. I would also be interested in knowing what you are working with. Forge? anvil? etc. Have fun.

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  • 7 months later...

i like 5160 for swords but... i would use new steel !! especially as you are new to smithing! if you end up spending the time to make a really nice sword and it breaks because of a crack in the steel you didnt notice it will ruin your week! new steel isnt as expencive as one mistake ... as far as s7 it makes great chizels and punches but hand forgeing a sword from it would be a BUNCH of work...anyway good luck!

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Bill Wyant and I did it, mostly formed at high heat with a power hammer at a friends shop. I am too lazy to do that by hand, I still have it too after al these years, some day I may finish it, but it isn't practical for a sale piece. Better to let an apprentice that insists they are ready to make a sword hammer on it for awhile, till the urge exits.

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Pretty new to smithing = swords and other blades are far down the road on the learning curve. In R.A. Salvatore's writings, Wulfgar had a wonderful war hammer...not a sword....hammers are a far better item to start with and are more useful to boot. Do the sord thing later. My two cents worth....


I have all the Salvator books, plus a book case full of other forgotten realms novels:p Aegis-Fang was the hammers name..
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