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I need guidlines on hardning and tempering a spring

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I need to forge a bigger/heavier spring for my leg vice and haven't been able to find the skinny on putting the spring back in a spring after it's been annealed and worked over. I tried using I-forge search and found a million things to make from a spring, but not much on actually making a spring.

Any and all pearls of wisdom regarding springs are greatly appreciated as long as you keep it simple (this spring isn't going to the moon).

Thanks

I stole this post from Ken Scharabrok over on the ABANA Forum. It might help you...

The ABANA Forums

Heat that spring until it is non magnetic and quench in warm oil,,about 110 or 120 f....Then set it in a metal container with a little of the oil and light the oil...let it burn out,,,shold be just fine....You need enough oil to burn for 15 or 20minutes

what you want is a springy flat bar? [you know this but the kids are listen'n]I don't think it will have to take a lot of shock;
so just harden ,and burn the oil off 3 times .should draw the temper u want.
is this clear as mud ?:)

  • Author

Burning off the oil sound like a lot of smoke and mirrors, or at least a lot of smoke. Can't I just dance a lazy propane flame on it? Every source I read says to burn oil or strike with a pine bough. I want to know how much I need to draw the temper; a little or a lot? Little equals strong spring, and lot means a lazy spring? I was hoping for the basic theory of making a spring.

As I said before, it's not going to the moon.

Burning off the oil sound like a lot of smoke and mirrors, or at least a lot of smoke. Can't I just dance a lazy propane flame on it? Every source I read says to burn oil or strike with a pine bough. I want to know how much I need to draw the temper; a little or a lot? Little equals strong spring, and lot means a lazy spring? I was hoping for the basic theory of making a spring.

As I said before, it's not going to the moon.


Nett,
At the risk of stirring the pot, blacksmithing is call black for a number of reasons; one being - Its not a clean room operation. There will be smoke sometimes ;) As for "basic", it seems that Rich and Pete's answers are about as basic as one could ask for. And as you have found, it is apparently the accepted way to temper a spring. However, the neat thing about this forum is, if one doesn't get the answer one wants, they may wait until some one gives the answer one is looking for :)

When the moon is rising over a grassy hilock, and thou hast sacrificed a bail of oats to a she goat, Then warm the "want-to-be spring" in yea forge hearth whilst chanting the mantra, "Harden yea steel". When said item no longer is attractive to a load stone, plunge into oil or water if the spirit moves you thusly.

Then polish and change your mantra to "I hope this worked" while heating the polished and shiny bar of hardened iron, til it reach the appearance of a sapphire.


Prefer this one ? While it WILL work, there are many unnecessary steps, but if you feel that you have to complicate things, ... what ever floats your boat. Have fun. :D

Nett, Oil Flashes At 600 Degrees ,after 3 Flashes = Spring Temper!
A Long Charchol Fire In The Gound Will Do The Trick!!!

Actually there are not mirrors involved to temper a spring you must attain and hold a temperature for a given length of time With a torch you can only heat you do not have a lot of control on how much you heat or if you are heating all over the piece at the same time. Yes a lot of smiths do just that and do it well. But your question leads me to believe you have limited experience in heat treating metal. The burning oil is the correct temperature to Draw down the steel until it is right for a spring..usually this takes about twenty minutes plus or minus time depending on the thickness of the steel. And keep in mind that if you are making a new spring it has to be from a steel that has enough carbon to be heat treated correctly. Have fun.

Of course there is not *1* tempererature to temper springs to. it depends on what alloy you are using and what failure mode you will accept. And has been mentione for a post vise you can even use mild steel and not harden/temper it; but rather design it so that it's used within the springiness boundries of mild steel.

My four inch vise has been doing a great job with a mild steel spring. It was handy and cheap(free ) so that's what the spring wasmade of.
Finnr

I agree with Finnr. I also have a 4" vise that I made a spring for from mild steel. No attempat at heat treatment. Been in service for about 3 years and seems to work fine. Simple and quick.

Thomas, Finnr ,& Gerald It's The Simple Things Which Work Best!
I Was So Busy Being Wise ;that I Forgot My Vise Spring, Is A Lawn Mower Blade.
Why Yes That Is The Ground Under My Feet!
Thanks :)

I stole this post from Ken Scharabrok over on the ABANA Forum. It might help you...

The ABANA Forums

Ken, Just use a link to the information if it is copyrighted. That way we still get to review the information and they are not infringed upon.

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