lyuv Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 In most side blast forges I see, the tuyere is made of metal. So it must be cooled, which complicates things. When I built such a forge, I bought a CERAMIC tube for the tuyere. Problem solved. (I added a reinforcing nozzle from refractory cement, to protect it) Seems too simple and obvious. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hikerjohnson Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 That's actually a pretty good idea. I guess the only issue would be sourcing a ceramic tube, and potentially worrying about whacking it with the poker and cracking it. How is the ceramic tuyere holding up in your forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genesaika Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 My metal tuyere is doing just fine without being cooled. Seems like a waste of time and materials to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 My JABOD has a metal pipe for a tuyere, surrounded by adobe. It's doing okay. I've thought of switching to a water-cooled tuyere, but worry sometimes about leaks, freezing, and rust. Like hikerjohnson - I'd worry about a ceramic tuyere getting bumped and broken, especially after a couple of months of thermal cycling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Metal pipe seems inexpensive and readily available. If the end gets burned a bit, just push the remainder of the pipe in toward the fire to make up the difference. When it gets too short, replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyuv Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 18 hours ago, hikerjohnson said: I guess the only issue would be sourcing a ceramic tube, and potentially worrying about whacking it with the poker and cracking it. How is the ceramic tuyere holding up in your forge? I found that tube in a furnace supply shop (fire bricks ect.), I have no idea what it's intended for. Indeed, at first the end would crack or chip every 2-3 sessions. But once it got the cement nozzle, it holds well (several months now). I even take a hammer and chisel to it to remove clinker (?) buildup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genesaika Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I just don't understand. In the 3 or so months I've been running my forge, weekends only, my metal tuyere still looks the same as when I installed it. I'm expecting it to last me a year or more. When it does melt away I can get enough pipe to make 3-4 more for $12. So why spend more on something that doesn't last as long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Boggs Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 A lot of different methods work. However, hours with the fire burning is a factor and how hot is that fire. How many hours a month are you running the fire for forge welding? I use the British forge design with a water cooled tuyere, for no other reason then that is what I was taught. I'm ten years on this tuyere and it's still going well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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