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I Forge Iron


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About hikerjohnson

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  1. Nope. They don't share drawings for parts they sell. It's an understandable position to take, and I respect them for it. But new from LG links are just not in the budget.
  2. Folks, I am trying to help a friend get a new-style LG25 hammer up and running. The existing toggle links are wrong (home-made by persons unknown). We've been in touch with the folks at Little Giant, and they have been very helpful as far as they can be, but it's not in the budget to drop $200+ on toggle links. Can anyone provide the between-centers and horizontal offset dimensions for this hammer? I've got the facilities to make new links, just need the dimensions.
  3. Hey gang, I'd like to point out a few things in a respectful manner: This fellow is typing in coherent English. That means he's in one of only a handful of countries globally. He calls out .25 1080. I am making an assumption, but I think he means inches, since .25 millimeter 1080 wouldn't be much good for most purposes. Only three countries in the world use the Imperial system - the United States, Myanmar, and Liberia. I don't think he's in Liberia or Burma. I could be wrong, but... 1080 is an AISI designation, the American Iron and Steel Institute. The rest of the
  4. Donated blood the other day, so I didn't have a whole lot of energy for forging, but I did noodle around in the scrap pile and weld up a halfway decent guillotine tool. The HAZ coloring makes it look a bit crooked, but everything is square, and there's a nice sliding fit to the dies, so this should be an improvement over my old clapper-style tool. Coat of paint coming tomorrow, and hopefully a test run as well.
  5. Wait, you mean I have to make stuff after I make the stuff to make the stuff? Sheesh, blacksmithing is a lot like work....
  6. Hi folks, here's a couple photos of the finished (but unhandled) flatter. I stopped by and visited a friend with a 2x72 belt grinder, which made fast work of dressing the face. The corners are slightly relieved to avoid getting "smileys" in my work, and the lion's share of the face is otherwise dead flat. I'm really pleased with how this came out for a first attempt. I'll drop in again when I get a handle on this.
  7. No mark, maybe the next one. I'm talking to Buckeye - I'm getting toward where I wouldnt mind so much telling people "I made that".
  8. Hi folks - I took Jenn's video as inspiration to get off my butt and back into the forge - I could use a flatter, but had been putting it off on the assumption that I needed a swage block to do the job. I didn't end up using my vise very much at all, though I can definitely see where it would have saved me time and some iterative shaping work at the anvil. Over two afternoons and about 4 hours, I came through to what you see here. The length of bar to start is, I think, very important, as it gives enough inertia to do a lot of upsetting without too much effort. I started with about 26 or 3
  9. The limited demo work I've done, the only rule was No Welding, due to the proximity of the crowd and the little tykes whos eyes are at the same height as the anvil... Similar thing goes for scrubbing off hot scale - be mindful of where that stuff is going.. Some places will set up lexan barriers, which might allow for welding, though it wouldn't be terribly historical looking. Other recommendations are to stick to simple items that don't take very long to forge, and that you can do reasonably well while distracted and answering questions. I've found it useful to have one item a
  10. Frosty, how many of these 3/4" burners can you reasonably run off a BBQ tank before it just freezes solid? I browsed through the thread, and may have missed a nugget somewhere, so I apologize if that's the case. I'd like to build a bank of 5 burners with a spreader plate or a shroud to make a wheeled weed-killer, like this one: These things retail for a gazillion bucks for what they are, and I figure I can fabricate something just about as good, and your T-burner seems like just the ticket.
  11. Well, it’s been awhile, but that’s how it goes, no? Here’s where I’ve gotten so far: Made some test cores and showed them to the foundry – they gave them the thumbs up, so that’s a positive thing for sure. I still need to make some more core boxes, but it’s not too hard. Below is the test pattern I’m going to try at the foundry – no edge features, just cores. This will help us learn about gating and fill, as well as whether our cores are sturdy enough. I’ve also gone and simplified the final pattern somewhat, and it may still not be done yet. Major changes incl
  12. As it happens, I do have the equipment, but not the dimensions. Still seeking the dimensions of the locking pin from anyone who might have one. Thanks all.
  13. That's a fair question, and the factory is the first place I went. They want 53 dollars. That's entirely too much money for a 4" or so steel pin with an eccentric turned on one end.
  14. Hi folks, I recently picked up a Di-Acro 1A bender in nice shape, but missing its locking pin, the one with the eccentric on the bottom to clamp in your stock when you start the bend. Does anyone have one of these that they could take some dimensions off of? Specifically, what the large diameter is, and what the offset of the eccentric pin is? Napkin-CAD or a pic and some notes would do the trick.
  15. What dictates when a forging is finished and who inspired you? TL,DR: "Finished” varies based on the service of the item, and its exposure/surroundings. Minimal tooling smiths like Petrila, Ross, Aspery, Brazeal, Ahman, Taylor are inspiring. I have more or less always considered myself a bit of a hack. I think this stems in large part from having been raised by perfectionists, one an amateur cabinetmaker, and the other a retired machinist. It’s daunting to look at some of the things you see made by experienced people at the peak of their skill, and it’s easy to think that y
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