Heavy Hammers?

[Greebe]

I am just curious about the idea behind the use of heavy hammers. It used to seem common to use a 2-3lb hammer for forging, while now days with the existence of the Brazeal rounding hammer concept, seems like lots of people are going to 3-5lb hammers. I can see how you could move more steel with a heavier hammer, but wouldn't this also cause a lot more stress on the body?

One last thing. Brian's style seems to favor a heavy hammer head, but he chokes up almost touching the head. Seems like the advantage of the heavier head is wasted if you choke up on the handle that much.

Thoughts and opinions?

[ThomasPowers]

You usually work your way up to the heavier hammers. Starting with one would be like running a marathon the first time you went out running. You are more likely to damage yourself than to succeed.

Being of an age where I don't have to brag anymore I tend to use a hammer appropriate to the project. For instance I used to make 1/4" square stock S hook using a 1500 gm swedish crosspeen; now I use a much lighter hammer and do the counter bend with a less that 1 pound hammer.

I am also more careful to warm up with lighter hammers and then go to a hand sledge for heavy work and switch back to a lighter hammer when I tire.

[arkie]

My go-to hammers are 2, 2 1/2 and 3 pounders.  They do probably 98% of what I need to do.  The other 2% would be a 4 pounder.  I just don't enjoy using a heavy hammer.

[ThomasPowers]

In general if you need to be swinging a sledge a lot you should be buying a powerhammer! (or a log splitter; I started out splitting the family's firewood back in the '60s)

[VaughnT]

I have two 4-pound hammers that I use fairly regularly.  My go-to hammer is a 3-pound cross-peen.  Balance of the head is just as important as the weight, and the size/shape of the handle can make a heavy hammer more comfortable than you'd imagine.

Depending on what you're doing, a 2-pound hammer might be all you need.  My little 2-pound cross peen is very nice for doing leaves and such, but I'd be there all day long if I was trying to really move metal.

Choking up on a heavier hammer doesn't offset the mass of the hammer.  You can get a lot of work done even though your hand is right below the head.  It also increases your control so you can do fine movements with the hammer rather than swapping out for something lighter.

[Marc1]

I am making a gate with 60 x 6 mm flat bar that has a lot of bends and doglegs  and need to use a 4 lb rounding hammer for expediency, The hammer has a long handle and i use it from 3/4 to 1/2 up the handle. It is what it is. Carpenters use the whole length of the hammer handle to drive nails and frown upon "choking the hammer" for good reason. THeir hammers are from 18 to 24 ounces. Forging is different from driving nails. 

I agree with Thomas and Vaughn, use the lightest hammer you can get away with. And also ... it is the work that determines the hammer not the blacksmith's strength or lack thereof. 

PS

Also ... the blacksmith's hammer blow comes not only from a downward movement but also from a circular motion that saves a lot of joint injury when you get it right. This technique makes a conventional hammer blow using the whole length of the handle, redundant in a way. 

[genesaika]

My go to hammer is a 3, or 3 1/2 I can't recall, pound cross peen. It's got a plastic handle until I can make a new wooden one. I will swap out to my smaller hammers for more detailed work or smaller stock. I have a 16 and 24 oz ball peen that both get regular use, I even have a wooden mallet for finishing and doing curves.

In the end it's whatever you are most comfortable using to move the amount of material you plan on moving. I wouldn't take my 16 oz ball peen to flatten 1 inch round bar, I'd use my cross peen or one of my father in laws 8 pound sledges..

[JHCC]

One of the interesting things I've observed over the last few years (i.e., since I restarted smithing after a long hiatus) is that the more hammers you have, the more hammers you use. Each one has its own particular weight, balance, and shape, and is thus more particularly appropriate to a particular task or tasks. When I'm hand forging, I'll usually rotate between three or four hammers ranging from two to three pounds, occasionally grabbing the eight-pound hand sledge if I need a couple of hard single blows.

[Greebe]

Thanks for the responses. My heaviest hammers are only 3 lb. My favorite hammer that I have used for the past 10 years is some old unmarked 2 lb. cross peen. I probably only have 12-14 hammers of varying weight and configuration, but they are traditional patterns.  I have stayed away from heavier hammers after I blew a tendon on my hammer arm about 9 years ago. Had a golf ball sized lump on my forearm from where the fluid leaked out of the tendon. Fun fun.

I just took it easy for a while then went back to work. Recently I have been using a 3lb hammer more and like it for the most part when forging heavier stock. Definitely is quicker and to some degree seems less tiring because you don't have to take as many swings at things.

Would a heavier hammer held closer to the head be less strain on your body then say a 2 to 2-1/2lb hammer held farther back? I am just curious as I my hands and arms are getting worn out from working in the trades most of my life. Need to find more efficient ways to work that are better on the body.

Thanks all.