Brian Evans Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I am making a power hammer and am not sure a wooden frame is up to the task. As I do not have access welder or nor the knowledge of how to use one I have made a frame out of wood. I have enclosed a picture of the design and of my frame (I am not done with it). What do you guys think? I can jump on the frame and it barely moves. As I have never used one before I don't know about the stresses that the hammering puts on the machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I would at minimum box the frame in, that would strengthen the structure. Hammering is rough business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Evans Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 What do you mean by box the frame in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Your frame is going to need more rigidity, and you can do that either by adding a plywood skin (glued and screwed down) or with a lot of diagonal bracing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Plywood would be best, and as JHCC said glued and screwed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4elements Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Brian As a disclaimer I have never built a power hammer, but in my 63 years I have built many things with wood, metal and other materials, a lot of them my own designs. I have also read through almost all the posts about treddle hammers and Olivers on this site, which I highly recommend to you. You show 2 pictures, the 2nd is a metal frame hammer which I believe could be built without a single weld. But if wood is your choice here are my thoughts. There are several oliver type hammers with wood frames you could copy. If you want to stay with your own design, boxing in the frame won't be enough. On the metal frame you show there is a diagonal which creates a truss. Your wooden uprights won't be strengthened by boxing the frame. Also your frame appears to be put together with nails or screws. Those won't hold up to the vibration from continuous impacts. I suggest through bolts reinforced with metal brackets and locknuts. Just remember, designing your own has much more risk than using a proven plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammerfall Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 A. Mig welder can be had pretty cheap, and is both fun and easy to learn to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 There are some issues with that design. Hand forging can take many years to a lifetime to perfect, and a power hammer won't help much if you don't know how to hand forge. While taking the year(s) of practice needed to learn hand forging I am sure you will meet a friend with a commercially produced power hammer. Learn from proven designs. Please don't get hurt or frustrated with your home built. On a more positive note, nice wood shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Evans Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Your wooden uprights won't be strengthened by boxing the frame. Also your frame appears to be put together with nails or screws. Those won't hold up to the vibration from continuous impacts. I suggest through bolts reinforced with metal brackets and locknuts. Just remember, designing your own has much more risk than using a proven plan You are probably right about using through bolts I will look into that (I used screws). I plan on being safe. I have a foot pedal that I will be using to make sure it doesn't stay on longer than it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Turn that chunk o' steel up on end. That will give your anvil a LOT more rebound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Evans Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 On a more positive note, nice wood shop. I will still be hand forging a lot, I just have large chunks of metal I need to move around and my back isn't liking the hammering I am doing. Thanks about the wood shop, but the tools you see aren't mine. Mine are elsewhere in the shop. Turn that chunk o' steel up on end. That will give your anvil a LOT more rebound. I may do that, I hadn't thought of that. I will probably cut a rectangular piece out of the stump and fit it in that way. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Evans Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Power hammer is finished and there are no problems so far after a few tweaks were made. The joints from the motor shaft are a kind of notched scarf joint covered with tape and clamped together. My next step is to adjust the head so I can change it out easily. MOV_1188.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnytait Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I kind of like this hammer, have you tried forging with it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Evans Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 39 minutes ago, Jonnytait said: I kind of like this hammer, have you tried forging with it yet? Yes I have, It works very well. I may test adding more weight or another spring to make the impact stronger. I used the general design from this guys power hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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