I know it's listed as a burner from Goede but there are a few exactly like this style listed for sale under different names.

 

I see T-Burners, Z-Burners, Side Burners, Ribbon Burners,  Shorty Burners, T-Rex Burners & EZ Burners mentioned but no specific name for this style.

So I was wondering what this style/ design of a burner is actually called.

 

 

Also- this has a 3/4" tube with a .025 mig tip.

Are there any guidelines as to how many cubic inches of forge space this should be limited to in perfectly tuned condition.

Mongo burner ... type this in google image and that's what you get.

Actually my ammo box forge uses that style of burner.

If I can bother you further, what are the inner dimensions of your forge & how does this burner work for you?

The box is 8 high X 7 large X 15 long

The burner operate well at 7-10 psi and need to be crank around 15 psi to have a good forge temp.

 

Huh, never thought about an ammo can.

The Jarhead in me loves that !

 

Mongo.... now I have Blazing Saddles running thru my head !

 

Hey GrumpyBiker,  here a picture of my personal version of the Mongo Burner with its flame (@12psi).

I think that's a lot of flame from such a simple burner!

Maybe, you should right up a set of instructions for exactly how you do it. I would be pleased to see this photo, and anything you care to write down about it, on the Burners 101 thread

I am intrigued about both the burner and the ammo can forge.

I've been De-Burring the one I bought and  working to get the jet centered correctly before test firing it.

 

I may have to look into a 40mm ammo can. They're about the same size.

The ability to open the top to replace the Koawool is a nice feature.

 

Looks more like a Dave Hammer design burner to me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxzdqcPzXj8

The multiple offset air ports are the give away.

I don't agree with the air openings, nor the choice pf flame nozzle; that is neither here nor there. The fact is that he has achieved a proper flame from a simple burner design, and I agree wholeheartedly with that. As to the rest; I probably have something more to learn

As to the burner in the first photo, I would call it a  "bird of many feathers" burner; I see parts from several burners in the design. Also, you did not include a flame photo, leaving us with no clear way to judge it's performance. However, the photo of a heated part is looking very good.

6 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

As to the burner in the first photo, I would call it a  "bird of many feathers" burner; I see parts from several burners in the design. Also, you did not include a flame photo, leaving us with no clear way to judge it's performance. However, the photo of a heated part is looking very good.

Who is this addressed to , myself or Blacksmith- 450?

I'm getting a little lost in the conversation.

Ups! The comments on the "burner of many feathers" are for you.

the comments on the the very hot part is for Blacksmith-450.

Here's a couple pics of it running at 8psi .

and a YouTube video I uploaded.

 

 

 

Your burner is presently running with a reducing flame, BUT is very close to right. At this point you could mount it in a forge, and successfully kid yourself that you are happy with it. The forge will probably even reach welding heat. Or you can keep on refining it, until it is running completely right; you will be able to feel when that happens, because of the happy grin plastered all over your mug

There isn't any right/wrong decision here; just which way you want to go. After all, nothing prevents you from taking it back out of the forge, and fiddling with it from time to time.

By "Reducing Flame" you mean to much fuel not enough oxygen?!

1 hour ago, GrumpyBiker said:

By "Reducing Flame" you mean to much fuel not enough oxygen?!

Correct, rich in other words. Oxidizing flame causes steel to scale.

The term "reduction" comes from part of the iron refinement process where excess carbon is added to the smelting process to reduce oxidized iron to pure or at least clean iron. I don't know the specifics of the term I haven't done any reading to speak of, maybe it means to reduce the oxygen in the rust? 

I'll bet somebody here knows the proper etymology of the term. Hmmmm?

Frosty The Lucky.

On 8/23/2017 at 3:35 PM, Mikey98118 said:

Your burner is presently running with a reducing flame, BUT is very close to right. At this point you could mount it in a forge, and successfully kid yourself that you are happy with it. The forge will probably even reach welding heat. Or you can keep on refining it, until it is running completely right; you will be able to feel when that happens, because of the happy grin plastered all over your mug

There isn't any right/wrong decision here; just which way you want to go. After all, nothing prevents you from taking it back out of the forge, and fiddling with it from time to time.

Does the fact that this burner is running with a reducing flame keep it from reaching welding heat?  Or is there something else going on as well?

thanks, Ken

Not at all, it's very close to neutral and will get plenty hot enough. If the rest of your forge is good enough. Not to much volume, insulated well enough, not too open, etc.

Frosty The Lucky.

14 hours ago, Frosty said:

Not at all, it's very close to neutral and will get plenty hot enough. If the rest of your forge is good enough. Not to much volume, insulated well enough, not too open, etc.

Frosty is dead on target. I place a lot of emphasis on getting every last erg of usable energy from a burner, so that the forge doesn't have to be built perfectly, knowing that it is just as easy for people to fall short in the forge build, as in the burner build. The idea is to offer more than one chance to "get it right." Right means hot enough to do the job-not to work perfectly. All the winners get from building everything just-so is the ability to turn the burner down lower, and save more gas

I'm anxious to get the forge fired up.

But I didn't want to run the forge with the 4' hose as that'd put the propane tank next to the forge.

So I've ordered an inline shut off valve & a 5" hose (9' overall).

That will get the tank on the floor.

I'll feel more comfortable with that.

Its scheduled to arrive this Tuesday.

I'll get some photos of it running.

Looking good, but I would put a 90° elbow and a quick shut off valve where the hose attaches to the burner.

At least put the 90 fitting on top of the burner. The hose won't be directly above the HOTness and will probably reach the tank on the floor. I like the shut off valve farther from the forge so if something goes wrong I'm not as likely to have to reach through the fire to shut it down.

Frosty The Lucky.

Me too, Frosty.

On the other hand, a guy has to take into account his own preferences in case of emergency. The main reason I don't place the shut off valve next to the burner, is that it is where I like to place a needle valve. A regulator is needed for safety, but I like to do the fine tuning on a burner with a needle valve; also just a matter of preference.