Post Anvil Stand Ideas

[ede]

I acquired a 5"x 30" hydraulic breaker bar from a friend.  It appears to be very tough tool steel.  I'm not sure what alloy but speculate it's 40 series or D2?

  I've drawn up some idas for mounting it vertically and am looking for some input.  I'm not going to try to weld on this metal so I've come up with a couple of ideas for mounting.  I've seen the ones where they drop it in a 4 gallong bucket of cement, however I'm looking for somthing a little more refined.  One can google Japanese knife maker anvil to see what I'm talking about.  

I've bored out a couple pipes to already do option A, a stand alone low anvil, but am second guessing myself with option B.  Current situation, I don't have my own shop, I do however have a primary 220# anvil already.  I do general smithing more than knifemaking.  My striking anvil is actually at 30" already, although this one I can tell will have some excellent rebound.  

I forgot to inclue in the drawing of option A, the bottom pipe would have set screws to lock it in place,  

Please don't be offended if I don't go with your design or suggestion, looking for some honest input here.  

Hopefully my scribbles make sense.   Thanks in advance!

[ThomasPowers]

How about a tripod stand that goes to a ring the breaker drops in with an adjustment bolt at each leg attachment to the ring to hold it tight?  You can get in close to work on it and at 166 pounds (5"x30") it should be good to go

[ede]

Yeah that was my calculation as well, about 165#s.    This picture doesn't show the ring or the adjustment bolt you are talking about.  This was an earlier permutation:

12 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said:

I like the last two ideas, the fancy mounting in the next to last pic looks great and will give a great look if demo'g !

The last idea would be great too, and give some weight to the Post Vice !

I think if we were voting on your ideas I would go with the next to last pic, great idea !

Thanks, Scrambler! 

[Charles R. Stevens]

The big flat foot is ok for flat shop floores but a simple tripod with independent feet would be beter if you may ever encounter uneven surfaces. And with 1/2 the length dropped down in a socket the complication of a clamping ring is way overkill. Think 3 leged adjustable jack stand 

[ThomasPowers]

I don't like the bucket idea as you want enhanced stability so you can really go to town on it with a heavy hammer and too easy to knock a bucket mounted piece over.

[VaughnT]

I do like the idea of doing the combo stand with your vise.  Kovko Kova4 has a similar set up on his youtube channel and it looks pretty handy.

Since you already have a "proper" anvil and are just using this one as a traveler or odd-job type anvil, I'd go with as minimal a base as you can get.  As Thomas pointed out, the flat base is great on a flat concrete floor, but anything that's even a little uneven will cause aggravating instability.  

I like that you're going for something other than the bucket of cement.  Classing up your stand will be a good way to showcase your artistic side to anyone that sees the thing, and you never know how that will impact their thinking of you.  Even if nobody ever sees it, just having good-looking equipment in your shop is motivating and invigorating.  It's good for the soul.

[Lou L]

You could use angle iron to grip the sides the way v-groove tongs hold round stock.  Three or four pieces bent outward on the bottom serve as feet.  Connect them on a hinge at the bottom where they bend and the anvil's own mass will serve to add clamping pressure on the sides.  Your anvil stand would essentially be a pair of tongs!

I agree with Charles and Thomas regarding the stability problems with the bucket style base.

[Charles R. Stevens]

I wouldn't bother welding on a hardy hole. If you make it a free standing post anvil then make a free standing portable hole, esentualty a 1" + plate welded to a piece of heavy wall tube or even 4 pieces of 1x3 bar welded up to make a tube. 

If you make a combo bench with your vice, then you have either the option of using your vice to hold the tools or using the bench itself, think stake tool holder with out the tapers or some tapers and some square. 

[ede]

On 7/29/2017 at 0:28 PM, ThomasPowers said:

How about a tripod stand that goes to a ring the breaker drops in with an adjustment bolt at each leg attachment to the ring to hold it tight?  You can get in close to work on it and at 166 pounds (5"x30") it should be good to go

Yes, I want to be able to "get in close" to my work. That drawing doesn't show, but if I go this route I will grind 3 flats on the breaker.  When it sits in the pipe tube (ring), I'll have some threaded set screws to lock it in place. 

 

On 7/29/2017 at 1:34 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

The big flat foot is ok for flat shop floores but a simple tripod with independent feet would be beter if you may ever encounter uneven surfaces. And with 1/2 the length dropped down in a socket the complication of a clamping ring is way overkill. Think 3 leged adjustable jack stand 

Okay, so instead of welding the feet to a large diameter base, you are saying forego the base and just use the bottom tube socket and it will sit better.  I like the idea of using it on uneven ground.  Maybe I will cut some individual pads that can be welded on to the base of the gussets with holes to accept floor bolts.  How would this be adjustable though, for the varying floor levels?

On 7/29/2017 at 1:37 PM, ThomasPowers said:

I don't like the bucket idea as you want enhanced stability so you can really go to town on it with a heavy hammer and too easy to knock a bucket mounted piece over.

I'm not sure what bucket idea you are referring to, are you referring to the cad drawing or are you referring to the captured method in option A?  I thought option A would possibly deaden the ring, currently the thing will ring like tuning fork, on and on and on.   

11 hours ago, VaughnT said:

I do like the idea of doing the combo stand with your vise.  Kovko Kova4 has a similar set up on his youtube channel and it looks pretty handy.

Since you already have a "proper" anvil and are just using this one as a traveler or odd-job type anvil, I'd go with as minimal a base as you can get.  As Thomas pointed out, the flat base is great on a flat concrete floor, but anything that's even a little uneven will cause aggravating instability. 

I like that you're going for something other than the bucket of cement.  Classing up your stand will be a good way to showcase your artistic side to anyone that sees the thing, and you never know how that will impact their thinking of you.  Even if nobody ever sees it, just having good-looking equipment in your shop is motivating and invigorating.  It's good for the soul.

 

Yeah, I think it could be useful as well.  I saw Kovko's video, thanks for the reference.   For other people who are thinking about this sort of thing, here's another way by Caotropheus.  Note, no safety glasses worn while striking:

Since I don't have my own shop and not in even a quasi permanent place, I think you and Thomas are on point.  Haha yes, I like that; Good for the soul indeed. 

 

9 hours ago, Scrambler82 said:

I was looking for a drawing for adding a Hardie Hole to Alternative Anvils and came across this post and thought of your situation, not the dd on Hardie Hole but the Stand itself.

I like the look but I would use some steel steps around the top and bottom rims just in case.

You could put short pieces under the center, determining the height, and then add the surround pieces.

As far as a Hardie Hole goes, you could use some pieces of 1" Flat Stock, welded to the side but I do not have any idea about effects of heating it up while welding.

 

 

 

That is a clever way, Scrambler.  I think with the tripod I'll be able to get closer though.  Thanks for sharing. 

7 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

I wouldn't bother welding on a hardy hole. If you make it a free standing post anvil then make a free standing portable hole, esentualty a 1" + plate welded to a piece of heavy wall tube or even 4 pieces of 1x3 bar welded up to make a tube. 

If you make a combo bench with your vice, then you have either the option of using your vice to hold the tools or using the bench itself, think stake tool holder with out the tapers or some tapers and some square. 

Charles, I think Scrambler was referring to the stand and not the hardy hole.  However, a free standing hardy is on the ever growing list of tools to make. 

[ThomasPowers]

A guy named ede wrote:  "I've seen the ones where they drop it in a 4 gallong bucket of cement"

[ede]

9 hours ago, Lou L said:

You could use angle iron to grip the sides the way v-groove tongs hold round stock.  Three or four pieces bent outward on the bottom serve as feet.  Connect them on a hinge at the bottom where they bend and the anvil's own mass will serve to add clamping pressure on the sides.  Your anvil stand would essentially be a pair of tongs!

I agree with Charles and Thomas regarding the stability problems with the bucket style base.

Interesting idea Lou with the v-groove.  Thanks for sharing. 

Just now, ThomasPowers said:

A guy named ede wrote:  "I've seen the ones where they drop it in a 4 gallong bucket of cement"

I heard of this ede, aspiring smith he is. 

[ThomasPowers]

I must look him up next time I visit the Mother Ship in Austin

[ede]

Yes, Yes.  I live next to the best place for migas and breakfast tacos.  The Doña is the best hot salsa you ever had.    Wait, you work S. of the border so I'm sure you get your fill.  The offer still stands. 

[ThomasPowers]

I do like green with my food; but I don't find pain to be a flavour I enjoy.  Got some black and white beans and italian sausage in the crock pot with a couple of onions and just enough green chile that you don't notice it at first but it increases with every bite and strikes when you stop.

I'm usually up near Parmer and I-35

[Charles R. Stevens]

A little tilt isn't as much of an isue as one might think, the body is a heck of a machine, tho a shim under a foot is possible with the bolts. My farriers stand has big washers with holes for big nailes. I stake it to the ground, if it had to much tilt I point a divit to set the high foot in. Adjustable hight is just a hand full of sand in the bit om of the socket away. Many smiths have built tripod stands out of thick wall structural tube and filled the tubes with sand and oil to help dampen sound. i used 1 1/2" thin wall square on my farriers stand and a 3/8 " rod half way to the ground to stifling the legs. Weight being an isue

[Ranchmanben]

If this is going to be in your shop long term, trick it out like your second to last picture. If it's long to be moved around frequently then do the tripod. I really like seeing a well built, thought out vise stand that is also embellished more than is stickly necessary. 

[ede]

On 8/2/2017 at 9:41 PM, Ranchmanben said:

If this is going to be in your shop long term, trick it out like your second to last picture. If it's long to be moved around frequently then do the tripod. I really like seeing a well built, thought out vise stand that is also embellished more than is stickly necessary. 

I agree Ranchmanben that the second one is more a long term solution, thanks for confirming my thoughts.  I'll try to post some pictures when it's done. 

 

On 8/1/2017 at 10:26 AM, Scrambler82 said:

 

Good Luck with the setup, if you can get another one get it and maybe that can have a Hardie added to it !   LoL !

It would be great if I could get another one.  I would make that one much taller for fine detail work.  Thanks, Scrambler.