AdamG

If I ever say I'm going to build it instead...

33 posts in this topic

if it is faulty take it back to where you got it from if you bought it new recently, air over is never a good idea for forging as they are so slow and have no control.

for each stroke it fully retracts, my press only goes as far as I want in either direction to within about 100th of an inch so all the time yours is moving for a single stroke mine has done several

it does not slow down noticeably when the tool touches the stock, it keeps going until it either reaches the set limit on the relief valve or the limit switch stops it ( or I take my foot off the switch, but at a stroke a second or more it is fast to control on the foot switch ).

overall height of my press is IIRC about 24" and I could have bought a shorter cylinder if I wanted.

I have quick change bottom tools

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Thanks, I have looked at your press.  Maybe I should have done something like that, but I tried to start simple (avoid hydraulics).  I have been thinking of replacing my jack with a single or two small cylinders and a power pack like this: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-stage-12v-dc-multifunction-hydraulic-power-unit/A-p8541666e

I think the width of my frame is a bit excessive, and there's only the two 2.5 x 0.25" wall tubes for structure, so I'm a bit nervous of putting a hydraulic load on there, even if it's only a single 2" or 2.5" cylinder, or two 1"-1.5" cylinders.

Any comments?

Sorry, I meant this power pack:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-hp-ac-2-stage-multifunction-hydraulic-power-unit/A-p8677239e

 

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that sort is ok for a few minutes use, I tested a similar one a while ago and with continuous use the oil boiled in 8 minutes, mine is ok with 8 hours also that is 2 speed which means time to change over, mine is always on full power and mostly it takes less than 1/4 second from the press starting to move until it is fully in contact with the work which would mean for yours to move at high speed and internally change to high pressure would take longer than mine on high pressure all the time.

you also need to add a double acting solenoid valve to that pump to control it.

will go look at your frame next

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Hmmm.  Good to know.  Do you sell yours?  Can't find a website etc.  Even if you do, could you get something like that across a border?  I could look at making one myself, but the point of this thread is that I'd rather get back to forging!

Also, I think that power pack has an internal bypass, so it uses the fast flow/low pressure to get the ram moving, and then the slow flow/high pressure once it hits resistance.  I was going to use electric foot pedals for up and down, and maybe interrupt the signal with roller switches for the top of the travel.

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IF the welding was done perfectly I would still not want to use it for more than a couple of tons and I would test it remotely to double what I was going to use it at and always work out which way things will go for every possible failure point.

on something like that I may go up to 1/4" 7018 rods, thicker metal and better design

table 1" thick with 4 by 2 box on edge on both sides, some triangulation at the top and when testing it use a dial gauge to see if things move under load

9 minutes ago, AdamG said:

Hmmm.  Good to know.  Do you sell yours?  Can't find a website etc.  Even if you do, could you get something like that across a border?  I could look at making one myself, but the point of this thread is that I'd rather get back to forging!

Also, I think that power pack has an internal bypass, so it uses the fast flow/low pressure to get the ram moving, and then the slow flow/high pressure once it hits resistance.  I was going to use electric foot pedals for up and down, and maybe interrupt the signal with roller switches for the top of the travel.

yes I sell them, yes it can go across a border.

yes your power pack with have an internal valve to change speed but that takes time, even if it is a fraction of a second it means it might as well have been on full pressure from the start.

you want limit switches for both top and bottom travel settings and make them easy and fast to set, mine I just spin a nut to change it.

also for slitting or drifting you need to add a stripper plate or you will have hot metal stuck on the tool and the cylinder getting hot while you struggle to remove the tool

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Ok, thanks. Please PM me with your website.

Also, I just unhooked the pneumatic actuator I had made for the jack's pressure release, and sure enough, when closed right I get more pressure.  I think your cautions still apply though.  

I made a stripping bottom die and I'll make a few different top punching dies but I'll have to be careful and maybe not use this for more than some lighter work.

IMG_2520.JPG

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And on a slightly different topic (different machine, also made by me)...

 

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Does anyone have any thoughts on a bolt together version of this style of press?

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