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I Forge Iron

Vulcan 150 lb anvil


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Hi ,

my son is 13 and wants to make knives so I burrowed forge from friend and just picked up this anvil at estate sale . Corners are sharp and its dead flat in both directions , there is some pitting on working surface. Should I flap disc with grinder or just use it ?

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Use it; by the time your son has pounded enough steel on it to worry about the face it will be bright and shiny.  Wire brush off any loose rust and go to hammering!  (Vulcans have thin faces and so NO thickness removal is strongly suggested!)

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Thank you , seemed like really fun father son project. He has a lot of patience and always made small nail knives when he came to work with me . Did not have ball bearing to rebound test but seemed like it wasnt used all to much .

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I have a 150# Vulcan myself. 

As Thomas stated, the top plates are thinner than other makes, so do not go grinding on it. Except for maybe radiusing the edges to prevent chipping.

Vulcans are considered the first rung on the ladder of "working" anvils. Besides the thin tops they also had some issues with casting flaws over the years. They are cast iron with a tool steel top plate like a Fisher which makes it a "quiet" anvil and well suited for urban smithing. The tops are not particularly hard, so watch the missed hammer blows. As long as you understand the limitations, and work around them that anvil will serve you well. 

Thomas must have been posting right as I was.

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I appreiate the imput , should I use good long metal file on edges ? I had no idea how expensive anvils are, I paid 2 hundred thought it was arm and hammer until I got home and researched . Since I started looking most where between 4-600 some in nice shape most not . I think I did ok better to have entry lower level in decent shape vs top of the line in horrible shape right

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yes and no..    LOL..         As a beginner there will be a lot of missed swings and each time you ding a face of a great, flat well made anvil you will be thinking Ut oh.. Or worse is with a missed swing and part of the face of the hammer comes off and sticks in your arm, face or eye.. 

So, I would be a big fan of a well used anvil or an ALO (anvil like object) or an ASO (anvil shaped object).. You only need one good corner to get started.. 

 

 How old is your son? I started when I was 8 and really a properly sized hammer was the hardest thing to find.. I bought a 2lbs true temper German cross pein hammer and it's still my go to 38 years later.. Anyhow, why back then a 1lbs would have been better.. That and an anvil mounted at the right height.. 

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No , not in mexico , ct still cold and rainy

He is 13 5'-8 140 and strong chances of me getting any anvil time slim to none  . I only have several typical ball peens  , and 1 3  lb hammer which I think is blacksmith hammer 

I will be cutting white oak base tomorrow so top of anvil is about the hieght of his wrist . What do you think?

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1 hour ago, Rookiesmith said:

No , not in mexico , ct still cold and rainy

 You should put your location in your profile settings. That way, people can give location-specific advice without having to ask where you are over and over again.

We have a number of members in Connecticut. Whereabouts are you?

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A 2 pound hammer will be good to start.

Before cutting the oak base, set the anvil up and put a piece of wood sheeting on the anvil face. Standing tall and normal, hit the sheeting with the hammer. If the crescent mark is at 12 o'clock, the anvil is too low, If the crescent is at 6 o'clock, the anvil is too high. Adjust as needed to get a nice round impression in the wood from the hammer. Measure from the base of the anvil to the ground and cut the oak base to match the distance. Leave a 2-3 inch ring around the circumference and concave the base interior just a bit so it will sit flat on the ground.

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