Rookiesmith Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Hi , my son is 13 and wants to make knives so I burrowed forge from friend and just picked up this anvil at estate sale . Corners are sharp and its dead flat in both directions , there is some pitting on working surface. Should I flap disc with grinder or just use it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Wire brush and use. Should polish up fine on its own. The corners are pretty crisp, but not excessively (at least, not as I see the photo). Leave them alone for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Use it; by the time your son has pounded enough steel on it to worry about the face it will be bright and shiny. Wire brush off any loose rust and go to hammering! (Vulcans have thin faces and so NO thickness removal is strongly suggested!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Thank you , seemed like really fun father son project. He has a lot of patience and always made small nail knives when he came to work with me . Did not have ball bearing to rebound test but seemed like it wasnt used all to much . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Vulcans are generally fairly soft so a soft hammer might help when learning hammer control. They are also a quiet anvil so no *TING* every time you hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 I have a 150# Vulcan myself. As Thomas stated, the top plates are thinner than other makes, so do not go grinding on it. Except for maybe radiusing the edges to prevent chipping. Vulcans are considered the first rung on the ladder of "working" anvils. Besides the thin tops they also had some issues with casting flaws over the years. They are cast iron with a tool steel top plate like a Fisher which makes it a "quiet" anvil and well suited for urban smithing. The tops are not particularly hard, so watch the missed hammer blows. As long as you understand the limitations, and work around them that anvil will serve you well. Thomas must have been posting right as I was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Well I'd expect a Vulcan to cost 1/2 or less the cost of an Arm & Hammer. Not knowing where you are at I can't even speculate what the going price in your area might be---are you in Mexico like I am right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 I appreiate the imput , should I use good long metal file on edges ? I had no idea how expensive anvils are, I paid 2 hundred thought it was arm and hammer until I got home and researched . Since I started looking most where between 4-600 some in nice shape most not . I think I did ok better to have entry lower level in decent shape vs top of the line in horrible shape right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 yes and no.. LOL.. As a beginner there will be a lot of missed swings and each time you ding a face of a great, flat well made anvil you will be thinking Ut oh.. Or worse is with a missed swing and part of the face of the hammer comes off and sticks in your arm, face or eye.. So, I would be a big fan of a well used anvil or an ALO (anvil like object) or an ASO (anvil shaped object).. You only need one good corner to get started.. How old is your son? I started when I was 8 and really a properly sized hammer was the hardest thing to find.. I bought a 2lbs true temper German cross pein hammer and it's still my go to 38 years later.. Anyhow, why back then a 1lbs would have been better.. That and an anvil mounted at the right height.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 No , not in mexico , ct still cold and rainy He is 13 5'-8 140 and strong chances of me getting any anvil time slim to none . I only have several typical ball peens , and 1 3 lb hammer which I think is blacksmith hammer I will be cutting white oak base tomorrow so top of anvil is about the hieght of his wrist . What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 1 hour ago, Rookiesmith said: No , not in mexico , ct still cold and rainy You should put your location in your profile settings. That way, people can give location-specific advice without having to ask where you are over and over again. We have a number of members in Connecticut. Whereabouts are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 A 2 pound hammer will be good to start. Before cutting the oak base, set the anvil up and put a piece of wood sheeting on the anvil face. Standing tall and normal, hit the sheeting with the hammer. If the crescent mark is at 12 o'clock, the anvil is too low, If the crescent is at 6 o'clock, the anvil is too high. Adjust as needed to get a nice round impression in the wood from the hammer. Measure from the base of the anvil to the ground and cut the oak base to match the distance. Leave a 2-3 inch ring around the circumference and concave the base interior just a bit so it will sit flat on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 My location is bethlehem ct and thank for anvil height advice, makes great sense. I do have 2lb blacksmith hammer, Son got home from dc trip tonight we will hit it first thing am. Thankyou to all for help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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