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On a recent trip to the local dump's scrap metal pile of glory, I found this interesting find:IMG_1443.JPG

After digging it out and bringing it home to my shop I found why this neglected drill was tossed by the previous owner.

1. It is seized     2.The top wheel has a crack    3. The nut on the top of the keyed shaft is cracked   3. Chuck bolt head is snapped off

Only marking is "No. 00" on other side

Any help or advise on restoring this post drill would be much appreciated 

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I assume that what's seized is the downfeed screw--those can be a bear to get loose and it usually takes a combination of penetrating lube and heat.  When I did mine, I set the offending portion over one of those small propane stovetop burners that is used for camping and gave it some time.  Eventually with some muscle and a cheater I was able to get it to uncrew.

The downfeed tube (with the keyway) was a tough one also--heat  still didn't cut it.  I got a long piece of threaded 3/4" fed down the center and made a sort of jig which allowed me to use a nut and a big wrench as a puller.

Deburr any gouges or burrs which you think might interfere with removing a part before trying.  Even a small burr can make pulling a nasty mess.

The other stuff you mentioned can be repaired or replaced with a little help and a gift to people with the right tools.

Step one is to hose it with penetrating lube everywhere...and again about every 2 days for a couple of weeks+.  It would help to keep the thing in a warm area during that time.  PB blaster stinks and is only OK as a penetrating lube.  Aerokroil doesn't stink as bad and works much better but is expensive.  WD40 is not the thing to use.

I didn't find this exact model in a quick search but someone else will recognize the brand right off.  There were a TON of makers of post drills and the more famous makers like Champion made a TON of different models.  I suggest you do an image search on "blacksmith post drill" and look at some photos to see if one matches or has similar details.  "Blacksmith", "cast iron", "metalworking" and a few other iterations might help eliminating the dental post drilling images that come up.

Oh..and don't reef or pound on the cast iron or you might break it.  You might reach a point where you have no other choice and if you do, just do it carefully.

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There are some references which would imply it is a Canedy-Otto # 00  but the lack of other markings makes it a little harder to pin down.  Some makers copy-cat others.

It is not 2 speed although you might be meaning 2 downfeed speeds.  True two speed units have different gear trains and an extra shaft parallel to the spindle (usually)

Here's the fully marked Canedy-Otto # 00 and you can see where the "00" normally sits.

18064-A.jpg

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