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I Forge Iron

coffee can forge


omegabrock

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On 11/16/2016 at 4:38 PM, omegabrock said:

lol I'm not sure what's going on now

One of the quirks of this forum is the tendency of some of its members to go off on long tangential strings of puns, limericks, and other non-sequiturs. You'll get used to it. 

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Okay; getting back to "the facts":

The decision whether to go with an air/propane torch, or to buiid a little burner, ultimately rests on whether you want to have a powerful hand torch out of the deal. Which ever way you decide, controls (whether built into the torch or added onto to a burner) will end up to cost just as much. Also, if you want the torch's full heat available in the forge, some modification of the torch will be necessary. Thinking that there is any PRACTICAL way around these facts amounts to self deception.

After that, I for one am ready for more humor, since the facts tend to be humorless.

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Haha well I'm a light hearted guy that doesn't get offended when told my approach is wrong when I dot know what I'm doing, and I like to learn. 

That said, I got my diamondback forge that my wife bought for me and I started pounding on it, trying to learn some hammer techniques. It ended up looking like a knife so I went ahead and went with it. 

 

In terms of forges, I think the next thing I'll do is build a new chamber (?) and then transfer the burner I have onto it. That way, I think it will allow me to get a feel and compare how it works to the one I have and then, I'll take that other burner design and make that. Kind of like a step by step transition into learning how to build the entire thing. 

IMG_0869.JPG

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On 10/31/2016 at 2:42 PM, BlackMetalViking said:

If you want to go with a Bernzo, check out the TS4000 or TS7000. They are designed very similar to an NA burner, and I've been using mine for months with great success. 

Good Luck

Viking

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Awesome. We're in the same area, so I know I can get these materials. Thanks for posting. I've been using a shop vac on blow and wood as fuel. It worked for mower blades but now it's getting to be useless. When you switched to the 20LB tank, where did you get the hose and attachments if I may ask?

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On 12/30/2016 at 2:47 PM, SmeltingFish said:

When you switched to the 20LB tank, where did you get the hose and attachments if I may ask?

Hey SmeltingFish, I picked up the remote line from Canadian Tire in the camping section, but I cant seem to find it online, so here is the same hose from Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stansport-5-Hose-Connects-Appliance-to-Bulk-Tank/10899099?action=product_interest&action_type=title&beacon_version=1.0.2&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&client_guid=14dec516-b87d-4f9d-8b0d-2e924854c130&config_id=106&customer_id_enc&findingMethod=p13n&guid=14dec516-b87d-4f9d-8b0d-2e924854c130&item_id=10899099&parent_anchor_item_id=19897422&parent_item_id=19897422&placement_id=irs-106-t1&reporter=recommendations&source=new_site&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id=Wy8zbsxEntYWxg520LOnEo

Hope that helps! Shoot me a PM if you need anything.

Viking

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On 12/30/2016 at 4:47 PM, SmeltingFish said:

I've been using a shop vac on blow and wood as fuel. It worked for mower blades but now it's getting to be useless. 

I use a shop vac on blow as well, although I'm burning rice coal (anthracite). Here's what you need to remember:

1. It will produce much more air than you need. Figure out some way to divert a portion of the air elsewhere; mine is set up so that its nozzle does not point directly into the tuyere, and it dumps about half of the air outside the forge.

2. When you're burning wood in a forge, you're really burning charcoal (i.e., the carbon that's left after the volatiles cook off). A shallow wood fire isn't going to get up to a high enough heat, because there just isn't enough depth of coals. The solution to this is either (a) have a very deep forge that converts the wood to charcoal above the metal-heating zone (like the Whitlox forge that burns the wood in a deep "V"), (b) have a separate wood fire from which you regularly transfer burning coals to the forge with a shovel, or (c) just burn charcoal from the get-go.

Whatever you do, remember that charcoal needs even less air than coal, so reduce your airflow as much as possible. It's counterintuitive (since we all tend to think that more air = bigger fire), but at a certain point, the excess blast is just pushing the heat right out of the forge or even cooling the metal as it blows through.

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2 hours ago, BlackMetalViking said:

 

Hope that helps! Shoot me a PM if you need anything.

Viking

That's awesome of you to look up for me. Much appreciated. As soon as I run out of wood, I'll have to go this route. Looks like about $100 worth of kit and I'll be good to go. Still looking for scrape rebar to forge some tongs out of. I lose a lot of heat switching from BBQ tongs to my vise grips! lol Thanks again.

2 hours ago, JHCC said:

I use a shop vac on blow as well, although I'm burning rice coal (anthracite). Here's what you need to remember:

Thank you JHCC. I did not know about the less air thing. I've been hammering the wood (after it turns to charcoal) on full blast. I'll cut back and see how it works in my fire pit. I did stumble across some info and starting cutting my wood into 1 inch thick pieces. Takes a bit but to cut but turns to charcoal quicker once I piled it in. I get the spike to yellow this way and get about an hours worth of hammering from two garbage pails of chopped wood. Thank you.

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