BlackMetalViking Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thanks Wayne. I already have a remote line to a 20lb, which greatly improved my fuel consumption.I started out just hooking to 1lb bottles, but learned very quickly how expensive that gets. I was using a 1 pounder per 3 hour session. Now with the remote line, I've been using the same 20lb for a few months. I apologize if I wasn't clear on the purpose of my last post, I was more just looking for opinions regarding the design of the torch in comparison to a mini NA Burner. I really appreciate your advice though, and I will very likely be contacting you over the winter months for some supplies for my next build, if you ship internationally that is. Thanks, Viking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Mike: I'm saving your posts to Word and will probably print it out. It's a lot to think about and the practical shop practice is good info. Excellent thread. Thank you. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 The reason I rebuild air/propane hand torches into stainless steel burners, is that most guys don't seem to be able to get enough heat into their forge from one without placing it within the forge, where it is in peril of melting. If you are satisfied with the performance of your lash-up, more power to you, since you say you have been using it for months, and I see no sign of heat damage in the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Frosty, More shop practice to post, since I've decided to go with my best 3/4" design, instead of an SST version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Silver brazing stainless steel Hot cracking/cold cracking in #300 series stainless steel: The cause of hot cracking during brazing or welding on stainless steel (or cold cracking soon after it cools) is the formation of chromium carbide in boundary layers between the alloy’s grains (crystal structures), when carbon content in the steel migrates from high heating for too long a period and/or slow cooling (always water quench heated parts afterward). Overheating isn’t listed here as a crack creator because it causes more immediate flux problems, so you aren’t likely to even reach that stage of the work. High heating for too long is more likely to get you into trouble with cracking than any other process. So, be careful what series of stainless you attempt to shape by forging, too. While three-hundred series stainless is the most commonly brazed of all S.S. alloy series, some of them have an “L” at the end of their numbers, which stands for low carbon content; obviously these alloys are better candidates for brazing and welding than the same alloy without the “L” (ex. #304 versus #304L), since carbon in the steel is what migrates to boundary layers and combines with chrome content to form highly brittle chromium carbide. Note: Even the best stainless steel flux is only able to remove some chromium oxide from a heavily oxidized surface; not all of it. Therefore, see to it that your flux has the easiest job that you can manage, with careful preparation. Although the oxides are quite hard, some S.S. alloys are fairly soft underneath, and very expansive at elevated temperatures; heating to around 400 °F (204 °C) expands the surface enough to separate the brittle oxide cover into particles, which can be easily scoured off the underlying alloy with a stainless steel wire wheel or “toothbrush”. Also, the oxide layer is quite thin; if you have #300 grit or finer sandpaper, it will remove the oxide layer without changing tube dimensions significantly. Inner surfaces can be considered oxide free if they have just been drilled; otherwise not. Before scouring, part surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned; preferably with an alcohol based solvent (even the oil in a fingerprint can prevent surface wetting). On the other hand contaminants are often used as “anti-flux” on areas where filler flow is not desired. Yellow ochre is often used by jewelers for this purpose, but kiln wash and clay are also effective. Petroleum jelly can be used to prevent filler alloys from plugging the ends of capillary tubes. Ideally, stainless steel joins should be heated with a slightly reducing flame, to help prevent further oxidation during hot work, but if you need a neutral flame to get enough heat, it takes precedence. You want to heat the parts with an intense, pencil flame. Place most of the flame on the thickest material: a pencil flame is best, but a small brush flame will do Procedure for joining thick mild or stainless steel coupling collars to thin S.S. funnels: Collar and funnel are cleaned, scoured and fluxed before being secured tightly together with fender washers, etc., on a carriage bolt or length of all-thread, and placed on a level surface. Using a propane or propylene torch with a small flame, heat the collar with the primary flame, only allowing the secondary outer flame envelope to touch the the thinner funnel wall. Pass the flame back and forth along the joint, heating an area about an inch wide. Once the collar turns dark orange, dip the filler onto the joint area, and heat the drop or so of silver braze filler with the torch, while allowing the flame to also heat the funnel; as you again pass the flame back and forth, the heated joint will suck the filler in, spreading it completely through the joint. Turn the parts to expose an area beside the one you just finished, and repeat this process, over and over until your entire joint is filled. There are other thermal joining processes for stainless steel outside of silver brazing; TIG welding is the most common. However three hundred series stainless, of which nearly all commercially available kitchen utensils are made, is prone to “hot cracking.” The higher the heat used the less time embrittlement from chromium carbide formation at crystalline boundaries takes. If you’re not a very experienced TIG welder, you’ll get to witness this phenomenon first hand. I recommend you choose to silver brazing, instead. Note: The flame nozzles (which commonly run at yellow heat for months at a time) don’t crack, but they aren’t exposed to stress from shrinkage created in brazed or welded joints either. What about silver soldering? Tin-silver solder joints are much weaker than silver brazed or welded ones. The only way a satisfactory solder joint is going to be made on these parts is with a hammer shaped, and then power sanded flare on the end of your collar; this provides an extended surface area for the solder to fill, but is quite an appreciable increase in work effort, just to avoid buying the more expensive brazing flux and filler alloy. Don’t even consider braze welding (AKA spelter brazing in the UK) on stainless steel; it’s your worst possible option, combining much higher temperatures than silver brazing with much longer heating cycles than TIG welding. Never braze weld on any stainless steel series containing chromium, and it is guaranteed to cause hot cracking on three-hundred series stainless. Stainless steel capillary tube gas jets are silver brazed into larger copper, brass, or steel tubes in much the same manner. Place heat on the larger exterior tube, and allow heat to transfer through it onto the capillary tube. When the outer tube is hot enough deposit a small drop of filler alloy onto the forward edge of the outer tube and use heat to suck the filler within the joint; next, turn the parts to expose the opposite side of the tube and repeat this process. The gas jets are siver brazed in the horizontal position. Note: Turned down MIG tip threaded sections can be silver brazed into gas feed tubes in similar fashion; they are silver brazed in the horizontal position. Silver braze fillers are stronger than solder, and therefore fit for joining parts at the rear of a burner (ex. funnels and gas jets). However, no silver braze alloy is capable of handling the elevated temperatures that burner nozzles are exposed to. If a burner is strictly being used as an open air torch, some nickel fillers are appropriate for joins at the flame nozzle’s rear, but must be accompanied by at least one penetrating set screw for safety. Adding a set screw to pin the parts together is wise, even for welded parts; it is common for high heat stainless joins in some stainless series to crack loose on larger parts; it is not a problem with something as small as a gas jet assembly. #304 or #304L stainless can be attached with silver braze, but not by braze welding. Silver brazing of this alloy to itself and to other metals is its most common joining method. Kitchen funnels are usually made of #304 or #304L, with some of the more expensive pots. Cheap pots are mostly made with #303 stainless, which is even more given to hot cracking during braze welding; but not often with the silver brazing process. #316 is next in line of the most commonly brazed of S.S. alloys, and can be found in many parts like conical reducer fittings, tubing, and pipe. Heavy wall stainless steel capillary tubing (ex. 1/16” tube), often called gauge tube (referring the testing gauges it is used to connect) is expected to be silver brazed and therefore comes in the right alloys for it. The most common mistake when silver brazing stainless steel capillary tubing into brass or copper parts, including refrigeration tubing and MIG contact tips, is to make a loose fit-up. Because the copper or brass outer part will expand more than the stainless steel part, loose fits tend to become oversize, resulting in a poorly brazed joint. Instead, make your parts reasonably tight fitting, and expansion from heating will open them up to the proper spacing. Don’t worry about fluxing the joint’s interior prior to heat. Provide enough flux to the joint’s exterior and the capillary tube’s exterior, and capillary action will suck it in between the two parts during heating, just as it does with the filler alloy. It is desirable to keep peak temperature of the parts as low as possible, and to keep the time that your S.S. parts are heated short; dunking the parts in water right after brazing is recommended. High silver content fillers (53% silver or more) are recommend for stainless steel joins; they can be found at jeweler’s supply stores, and at some welding supply stores. Silver braze filler alloys are also available from numerous online sources, including eBay and Amazon.com. Try to find filler that flows around 1200°F (648.9°C) or less. You are basically looking for filler alloys that conform to AWS BAg-7: Rio Grande carries five different temperature ranges of silver braze filler alloys: Extra easy; easy; medium; hard; and extra hard. Their version of easy-flow silver “solder” has a flow range of 1240 °F (671 °C) to 1325 °F (625 °C); it contains 65% silver and sells for about eleven cents per inch. If you’re going to buy a stainless steel filler alloy separate from the flux (rather than a braze kit), this is the source I recommend first: http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Silver-Wire-Solders/101100?Pos=1 Silvaloy #355 comes in wire and ribbon forms, and flows at 1205ºF (652ºC); it is a recommended alloy for stainless steel work; use with Ultra Flux® or with one of the black fluxes recommended for brazing on S.S. Alpha Metals AM53500 comes with its own flux in a small kit available for $10 to $15 dollars from many sources including Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AM53500-Cookson-Elect-Silver/dp/B000G36BJK the kit includes a fifth of an ounce of.029 silver braze wire (56% silver/44% tin) and a half ounce tube of flux Allstate #155 comes as fluxed rod or as bare rod used with s-200 flux. The flow range is 1150-1200°F (621-649°C) Handy & Harmon’s Easy-Flo 3 is especially recommended by them for joining three-hundred series stainless steels; also for joining tungsten carbide, beryllium copper, and aluminum bronze to steel; it is solid at 1170 ºF (630 ºC); liquid at 1270 ºF (690 ºC); maximum brazing temperature of 1400 ºF (760 ºC) Safety-Silv #56 flows at 1205ºF (652ºC); it is available as flux coated rod and in wire forms, and is often sold as a kit with Harris’s white flux; I recommend black flux for beginners, instead; it is more expensive, and more trouble to use, but also more effective on stainless steel. Handy Flux Paste is an active fluoride-borate type that begins to become molten and dissolve oxides at 600ºF (320ºC); it is fully molten and active at 1100ºF (600ºC), and provides protection up to 1600º F (870ºC); for brazing stainless steel, steel, nickel, copper and other nonferrous alloys; cleanup with hot water after hot work. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers; also from the online locations listed below. Use with Easy-Flo (contains cadmium), and other (non-cadmium bearing) silver-braze fillers. Note: While not as active as Handy Flux Type B-1 Paste, this flux can be more convenient to use in the kind of tight fits recommended for stainless steel capillary tube trapped within copper tubing and MIG contact tips, or within half-hard brass tubing. This is because it flows far more readily than black flux, so as to be sucked more easily into the joint; it also turns milky white, and then clear just before the parts reach the right temperature for silver brazing, helping the operator to judge correctly just when to apply filler alloy. Handy Flux Type B-1 Paste a product of Lucas-Milhaupt, Inc. Handy Flux B-1 (boron modified) is especially suited for brazing high chromium stainless steels, tungsten & chromium carbides; also molybdenum alloys; it has an active range of 1100 °F (600 °C) to 1700 °F (926 °C). This product may be thinned with water. When heated this flux becomes quite corrosive; post braze cleaning in hot water is necessary. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers. Sure Flo Black Paste is a product of Lucas-Milhaupt, Inc. Black Paste can be used for brazing steel, high chromium stainless steel, tungsten, tungsten carbide, chromium carbide, copper, copper alloys, nickel alloys and molybdenum; active temperature range is 1050 °F (540 °C) to 1700 °F (926 °C). When heated this flux becomes very corrosive; post braze cleaning in hot water is necessary; if stored beyond normal shelf life, or an open container dries out, it can be restored by addition of distilled water; it may also be deliberately thinned with water. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers. The particular advantage of all the black fluxes is that they stay exactly where you put them during heating. Handy Flux Hi-Temp Boron Modified Paste for high temperature silver, copper, nickel, or stainless steel brazing in the range of 1600 ºF (870 ºC) to 2200 ºF (1200 ºC), involving longer time or base metals with refractory oxides. This is a good candidate for brazing the rear end of SS nozzles to mixing tubes with nickel rod; it can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumber’s supply stores, and HVAC supply dealers. The fumes from this product are toxic; work in a well-ventilated room and use an approved respirator to avoid the fumes. When heated, the flux forms a vitreous surface that should be removed with a sodium-bisulfate pickle. Wolverine Black Flux is active between 1100 °F and 1800 °F (593 °C to 982 °C); it is recommended for joining refractory metals (ex. stainless steel), and for extended brazing cycles. The flux is a water based paste, consisting of potassium salts of boron and fluorine. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores (try Praxair first), and some plumbing supply and HVAC dealers. Harris Welco Stay-Silv Extra High Temperature Black Brazing Flux is an all-purpose high temperature silver brazing flux; it is particularly useful where large amounts of refractory oxides may form. Use with stainless steel, and carbide alloys; active temperature range is 1050 °F to 1800 °F (566 °C to 982 °C); see resource list. There are also many other manufacturers of black flux these days. Thermal Joining of Capillary Tube: Use nylon scouring pads, to clean brass or copper capillary tube before soldering or brazing; unlike sandpaper and wire wheels, scouring pads don’t change outside diameters; unfortunately, they are too soft for stainless steel. Stainless steel capillary tube should be cleaned roughened, and then fluxed immediately. If a copper MIG contact tip, piece of copper or brass round bar, or threaded part is recently drilled out to fit the tube, this will serve as its cleaning, but unknown brass alloys (which may contain lead content) should be acid etched, and old copper parts should have any tarnish removed. Apply just enough flux to the capillary tube to make a thin coat between mating surfaces, and assemble at once. Do not apply flux all the way to the tube’s end. Insert the capillary tube in a 0.002” (or less) oversize hole; push it in until it bottoms out, and twist one-quarter turn, to ensure the flux completely surrounds the joint at some point. Wipe off the excess flux, and heat just the larger part, until the flux activates; remove your assembly from the flame, and touch the filler alloy to the join area. Don’t try to see how much alloy the join will take; just touch, and immediately remove the filler the moment you see it flow. If the filler doesn’t flow, reheat the join area until the filler flows when touched to the joint. Note: shoving a little petroleum jelly within the tube end before cleaning the tube’s exterior is an effort that can ensure no filler alloy will get sucked inside and plug the tube during brazing. Remember to clean out the tube and its holder afterward. You can deposit the jelly with a dispensing needle, to avoid further cleaning of the exterior. Use a soft diffuse flame, keeping the torch tip distant enough to employ the secondary flame envelope. With one of my burner designs employ the choke so as to achieve such a flame. Move the flame around on the larger part, being careful not to touch it directly to the flux. Never use an oxidizing flame when soldering or brazing. Warning: Cadmium is a powerful wetting agent, but it is also toxic. Try to avoid cadmium bearing alloys, but if you must work with them, use a powered exhaust vent inside, or area fan (blowing the fumes downwind if you’re already outdoors) to remove toxic fumes from your breathing space. Wear a respirator rated for heavy metal fumes. Also wear a respirator when sanding or grinding on surfaces that have been treated with a cadmium bearing coating. On the other hand, there is a considerable amount of hysteria about cadmium contact. Exposing yourself to cadmium in industrial settings is foolishness, and unnecessary sanding or grinding on cadmium surfaces amounts to criminal stupidity! But, occasional and proper use of cadmium bearing filler alloys—while carefully following the manufacturer’s directions and being darn sure not to overheat the filler alloy—shouldn’t pose any cause for concern. Cadmium bearing silver solder and silver braze fillers from Lucas Milhaupt: http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/products/fillermetals/silverbasedcadmiumbearingfillermetals/9/ Easy-flo and Easy-flo 45 are both recommended for joins in #300 series stainless steel (ex. #18-8 alloy commonly found in stainless steel funnels). Borax powder is the basis of most common brazing fluxes (not effective on S.S.). When you buy white brazing flux from a welder’s supply store, it may or may not have other ingredients. Rather than buying a plain borax/water mix in a jar, purchase Twenty Mule Team borax powder (available in 76 oz. and 54 oz. boxes), and add the water yourself. This product can be ordered online and found at the following outlets: CVS, Dollar General, Family Dollar, Food Lion, Giant Eagle, HEB, Hy-Vee, Jewel, Kmart, Kroger, Meijer, Nash Finch, Publix, Rite-Aid, Safeway, ShopRite, Stop & Shop, Supervalu, Target, Wal-Mart, Walgreens, Winn Dixie, and Wegmans. Lead etchant: Use lead etchant for cast-iron and “mystery” brass parts: Two caps white vinegar into one cap hydrogen peroxide (in the strengths commonly found in supermarkets). Immerse and lightly agitate parts for fifteen minutes. Brass rod (hex, round, square, and flat bar) contain lead content up to 3.7%. Lead has a lower melting point than zinc or copper and therefore tends to be squeezed into grain boundaries, leaving lead globules as the brass cools and crystallizes at the foundry; this increases lead content on part surfaces. Machining then smears the lead over part surfaces. Thus the damage from later formation of lead carbonate can be considerable. If you don’t know the exact lead content of brass alloy you’re employing, use of lead etchant before brazing is recommended. Red brass has only 0.05% lead content, and thus there is probably no need for etching. Tarnish remover for copper: Common table salt combines with the acetic acid in white vinegar to produce sodium acetate and hydrogen chloride (a very strong acid). Together they rapidly clean copper, or any of its alloys with high copper content (MIG contact tips, copper pipe, copper wire, or pennies). Note: The treated surface will quickly corrode if exposed to water or air before being cleaned off in hot water, and then heated to dry. Stainless steel etching method: Use a 12V battery or DC supply and add a pinch of salt to a glass of water. Rinse off salt traces in hot water, dry, and use. Stainless steel etching solution: Dip part in 35% to 40% ferric chloride solution while agitating, rinse off in hot water, dry, and immediately flux. Stainless steel etching solution: 15cc hydrochloric acid, and 5cc nitric acid, in 100cc cold water (do not heat solution). Add the acid to water; never the other way around. Rinse acid off parts in hot water, after etching. Do not use this solution for etching any other metal. Stainless steel etching solution: Tarn-X Tarnish remover, available in grocery store cleaning isles for about $7, cleans tarnished silver and copper surfaces; will etch stainless steel, chrome, brass, aluminum, and pewter, and even silver (within as little as two minutes emersion); contains Sulfamic Acid and Thiourea. Warning: Wear rubber gloves and wash hands afterward. Wear goggles during use; causes severe burns to eyes on contact. Scrub off black discoloration on stainless steel before fluxing. Tarn-X is not for general cleaning on stainless steel, as it will discolor this material. Vulcan’s Workshop is an eBay store specializing in filler alloys and other aids to brazing and jewelry making. You can find a large variety of brazing wires in small amounts there: http://stores.ebay.com/vulcansworkshop Cadmium bearing silver solder and silver braze fillers from Lucas Milhaupt: http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/products/fillermetals/silverbasedcadmiumbearingfillermetals/9/ S.S. Soldering Alloys, Fluxes, & Anti-flux 1 Quart Fast Acting Phosphoric Acid Cleaner for $11.49 is available at Home Depot. The black oxide deposit must be power brushed afterward. Kester #817 - Although this is a mild flux compared to many, it is a very active solution developed for soldering nickel-chrome and stainless steel alloys where regular acid fluxes such as #715 are not active enough to remove the resistant oxide coatings. Complete removal of residues left after fluxing with #715 and #817 can be assured by rinsing with a 1% solution of hydrochloric acid in water. This should be followed by a rinse with a 2% to10% solution of #5760 Neutralizer, and a final rinse with clean water. STAY-SILV White Flux is a general purpose Inorganic fluoride silver brazing flux, for use with most ferrous and nonferrous metals, not recommended on aluminum, magnesium, or titanium.; active range is 1100°F - 1600°F. This product may be purchased from weld supply stores, HVAC dealers, Home Depot, and from countless online sources. STAY-SILV White Flux (a Harris product) is available through Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Harris-6-5-Stay-Silv-White-Flux/dp/B001LEK7LQ Stay-Brite Low Temperature Silver Solder (a Harris product) is 96% tin and 4% silver, with a melting temperature of 430° F; it has excellent affinity for all ferrous and nonferrous alloys except aluminum. It has more than 5 times the strength of ordinary tin-lead solders; very high elongation for dissimilar metal joints; kit contains 1/2 oz. of Stay Brite silver solder with 1/16" wire diameter, and 1/2 oz. of flux, (with applicator). Handy & Harmon’s 96.5 Sn/3.5Ag eutectic solder alloy wets copper, brass, steel, and stainless steel; its melting temperature is 430° F (221° C). Kester #817 Stainless Steel Solder Flux. You can find the nearest Kester products distributer at: http://www.sourceesb.com/Distributors/Kester-Solder.asp Yellow Ochre Anti-Flux is available from Shore International Corporation for $9.75 and shipping: http://www.shorinternational.com/SolderingFlux.htm Brazing Alloys & Fluxes for S.S. AISI (American Iron and Steel Institute) classifies common stainless steel alloy types with a three digit number, which designates their compositions. In the AISI system austenitic alloys begin with the number 3 (3XX); manganese-substituted austenitic stainless begins with a 2; ferritic and martensitic classes begin with 4; precipitation hardening stainless begins with 6. The UNS (Unified Numbering System) designates stainless steels by one letter and 5 numbers (ex, SXXXXX). The first three numbers in the UNS system are the same three digits of AISI numbers. Below is a list of recommended Handy & Harmon filler alloys and fluxes; they are available online from ESAB and many through other sources, but to get exactly the product you want, it is more convenient to order through a local welding supply store. Handy & Harmon’s Braze #403, #404, #505, #560, #630, and Easy-Flo #3 alloys are recommended on non-hardening ferritic stainless steels (AISI designations 302. 303, 304, and 316); use with Handy Flux or Handy Flux Type B-1. Handy & Harmon’s Braze #541 filler alloy is recommended for service temperatures to 700° F (370° C); use Handy Flux Type B-1. Permabraze #130 is recommended for temperatures to 1500° F (815° C) on designation 446; use with Handy Hi-Temp Flux Boron Modified. Handy & Harmon’s Hi-Temp 720 nickel-based filler is recommended for penetrating flow characteristics. Flow range is 1790° F (977° C) to 1900° F (1038° C). Handy & Harmon’s Hi-Temp 721 nickel-based filler is recommended for slow flow and good capping (fillet forming) characteristics. Flow range is 1790° F (977° C) to 1970° F (1077° C). Boron modified white fluxes: Handy Flux Paste is an active fluoride-borate type that begins to become molten and dissolve oxides at 600º F (320º C); it is fully molten and active at 1100º F (600º C), and it provides protection up to 1600º F (870ºC); for brazing stainless steel, mild steel, nickel, copper and other and nonferrous alloys; cleanup with hot water after hot work. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers; also from the online locations listed below. Use with Easy-Flo, Sil-Fos, and other silver brazing fillers. Handy Flux Type B-1 Paste a product of Lucas-Milhaupt, Inc. Handy Flux B-1 (boron modified) is especially suited for brazing high chromium stainless steels, tungsten & chromium carbides; also molybdenum alloys; it has an active range of 1100° F (600° C) to 1700° F (926° C). This product may be thinned with water. When heated this flux becomes corrosive; post braze cleaning in hot water is necessary. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers. #3103 Silver Solder Flux (used with some of the fillers above) is available from Scientific Instrument Services, Inc. http://www.sisweb.com/catalog/08/G31.pdf 7 oz. jars of Handy Flux Paste are available at: http://www.progresstool.com/pd-handy-flux-soldering-paste.cfm Also at: http://rmgsupply.com/products/HANDY_FLUX_7_OUNCE_JAR_W_BRUSH-2126-127.html Also at: http://www.jewelrysupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7872 One pound jars are available at: http://rmgsupply.com/products/HANDY_FLUX_1_POUND_JAR-2128-127.html Handy Flux Hi-Temp Boron Modified Paste for high temperature Ag, Cu, Ni brazing in the range of 1600º F (870º C) to 2200º F (1200º C), involving longer time or base metals with refractory oxides. This is a good candidate for brazing the rear end of SS nozzles to mixing tubes with nickel rod; it can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers. Black Fluxes are even more active than the boron modified white fluxes, but tend to remain in place during heating, rather than flowing into tight fits. Sure Flo Black Paste is a product of Lucas-Milhaupt, Inc. Black Paste can be used for brazing steel, high chromium stainless steel, tungsten, tungsten carbide, chromium carbide, copper, copper alloys, nickel alloys and molybdenum; active temperature range is 1050° F (540° C) to 1700°F (926° C). When heated this flux becomes corrosive; post braze cleaning in hot water is necessary; if stored beyond normal shelf life, or an open container dries out, it can be restored by addition of distilled water; it may also be deliberately thinned with water. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply, and HVAC dealers. Harris Welco® Stay-Silv® Extra High Temperature Black Brazing Flux is an all-purpose, high temperature silver brazing flux; it is particularly useful where large amounts of refactory oxides may form (stainless steel and carbide alloys. Use with stainless steel, carbide; active temperature range is 1050° F (566° C) to 1800° F (982° C). This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores and some plumbers supply and HVAC dealers; it is listed in the Airgas pages: http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=4495&WT.svl=4495 Also available from Hard Hatters: http://www.hardhatters.net/harris-welco-staysilv-extra-high-temperature-black-brazing-p-5365.html Wolverine Black Flux is active between 1100° F (593° C) and 1800° F (982° C); it is recommended for joining refractory metals (ex. stainless steel), and for extended brazing cycles. The flux is a water based paste, consisting of potassium salts of boron and fluorine. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores (try Praxair first), and some plumbing supply and HVAC dealers. Safety Light is an extended heat range flux for silver brazing stainless steel, nickel, and carbon steel alloys. Cost is $17 and S&H; good from 870 ºF to 1,700 ºF; hot water cleanup: http://www.cycledesignusa.com/stainlesslight.htm SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Most stainless steel fluxes contain potassium fluoroborate (CAS No. 14075-53-7) and should be handled with care. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. As an added precaution, wash hands thoroughly after use. Brazing should be done with adequate ventilation. Disposal of raw flux and flux residues must be carried out in accordance with local and federal environmental guidelines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMetalViking Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 17 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: The reason I rebuild air/propane hand torches into stainless steel burners, is that most guys don't seem to be able to get enough heat into their forge from one without placing it within the forge, where it is in peril of melting. If you are satisfied with the performance of your lash-up, more power to you, since you say you have been using it for months, and I see no sign of heat damage in the photos. Thanks Mikey, I really appreciate you taking the time! I use a small piece of pipe nipple threaded right into the forge shell. It acts as a burner mount stopping just inside the insulation layer, allowing me to keep the torch tip out of the forge. I am so fortunate to have this site as a resource, I can't say it enough, a little reading on here goes so far in the shop! Thanks again Mikey. Viking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 You're welcome. In my youth, we had to pry shop knowledge out of bitter old men, who thought it was gold, and we were sheep dip. The Net has been vary good at breaking up log jams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 3/4” Vortex burner with silver brazed collar These instructions are as correct as I can make them without several more edits. There are no pictures or drawings at this time; those are the last things a do for a book. Why should you expend the effort and money to build this particular burner? The only commercially made 3/4” gas burner with nearly total primary combustion in a neutral flame presently available is $206.50 shipped, and has nowhere near the heating power of this burner. Parts prices fluctuate as do commercial burner prices, but they rise and fall together. Even when buying all its parts new, you’re always going to be able to build this burner for half the price of its much weaker competition. Nor is there a choice of flame nozzle sizes available for any burner outside of the Vortex series; with other burners, only one nozzle diameter works properly, and performance plummets within as little as fifty-thousandths of an inch difference from that size. Plan ahead and you can end up with enough supplies and spare tubing to build a second burner, which can then be sold on eBay, repaying all your expenses, or you can start selling burner kits, resulting in an income to fund your hobbies. It should be noted that, while Onlinemetals.com has previously been an excellent source for small metal purchases, there have been many recent changes in company policies; they are not the only online source for tubing parts. Don’t hesitate to cross reference Speedy Metals or Metals4uonline.com. Many cities have local metal parts sources; even local online metal dealers who specialize in small orders, cut to length; always look for such sites before shelling out for shipping charges and minimum cut lengths. Before ordering a single part, read completely through these instructions; then, go back over them, matching them up with each part and tool on the materials and tools lists, until you’re satisfied that your understanding is complete. Also, read through and refer back to previous supporting technical chapters (ex. drilling, threading, and brazing of stainless steel) before starting assembly. You are given construction choices on this burner, and you need to read ahead of your work, so as to map out a building plan that best suits your needs, and skills. The first question on your mind is likely to be “why two different size flame nozzles”? After all, flame nozzles are a work intensive part on any burner, and use the most expensive materials. Two different flame nozzle diameters allow the burner to be run at maximum efficiency throughout a longer turn-down range. If you’re only concerned with efficiency at minimal gas pressure, choose the smaller flame nozzle, and build the larger nozzle later (if at all), since none of the materials for either nozzle can be used with the other; if you are only concerned with getting the most heat possible from this burner, build the larger nozzle first, and the smaller one later. Parts and materials list (1A) The Metrokane thick wall wine funnel (recommended) has an inside diameter of 2-3/4”at its large opening, and ends up at 2-3/8” long when cut back for the coupling tube and fan mounting plate, which adds a farther 1/2”; because of its greater length then any suitable SST, and moderately convex shape, backpressure is created further from the fan than with a straight wall kitchen funnel; but, it may involve more work than the alternative choice below ($18.30 and possibly free shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Metrokane-6118-Wine-Shower-Funnel/dp/B000YDGMNW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1389567747&sr=8-3&keywords=wine+funnel (1B) Or, you may choose to employ a funnel from a stainless steel french-fry holder; doing so slightly decreases safety, as is not a convex shape (generating more back pressure next to the fan). Because the taper is even along its entire length, you can trap the funnel with a carefully constructed flat ring, instead of needing to silver braze one to the funnel wall. Dimensions are 5” diameter by 8” long stainless steel cone weighs one full pound before cutting ; this cone is also good for use on 1”, 1-1/4”, and even 1-1/2” burners, but only by cutting away its small end, and brazing the enlarged opening to a coupling tube; the large open end must also be cut back to reach an optimum diameter to match up with your fan opening; it’s $34.04 and qualifies for free shipping on orders over $35: http://www.amazon.com/American-Metalcraft-SSFC9-Stainless-Slotted/dp/B00AKBQCKQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441917237&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=conical+french+fry+holder (2) The mixing tube is 1” O.D. (outside tolerances are minus nothing to as much as 0.005” over-sized), by 0.870” I.D. D.O.M tube; ordered 12” long it is $4.35 plus shipping; it is 0.036” larger inside than an equivalent 3/4” schedule #40 pipe, and is seamless: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7775&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 You may change out this part for stainless steel if you desire to, but it is more expensive. (3) The collar tube, which holds s funnel on the mixing tube above is 1.375” O.D (tolerances of minus nothing to as much as 0.005” oversized), by 1” I.D. D.O.M tube (tolerances of +/-0.004”), by 1-3/4” long, from 10” to 12” random cut length is $12.11 plus shipping; it may need lathe turning or power sanding to produce a sliding fit on the mixing tube: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15533&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 (4) The stainless steel flame nozzle is made from 1-1/4” schedule #40 stainless steel pipe; actual O.D. is 1.660” by 1.380” I.D (tolerances +/- 0.010”) by 3-1/2” long, cut from a 12” length; $14.56 plus shipping. Stainless steel flame nozzles are slowly consumed, so save the extra material for replacement nozzles: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=19701&step=4&showunits=inches&id=304&top_cat=1 (5) A spacer ring for the flame nozzle above is provided by 1.375” O.D (tolerances of minus nothing to as much as 0.005” oversized), by 1” I.D. D.O.M tube (tolerances of +/-0.004”), by 1-1/2” long cut from same length as part three; it may need lathe turning or power sanding to produce a sliding fit on the mixing tube: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15533&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 You may change out this part for stainless steel if you desire to, but it is more expensive, and harder to drill & thread. (6) A second larger stainless steel flame nozzle can be made from #304 stainless steel tube with a 1.625” O.D. by 1.495” I.D (tolerances +/- 0.010”) by 3-1/2” long, cut from a 12” length of tubing $41.25 and shipping. Save the left over tubing; even stainless steel flame nozzles wear out eventually: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=14793&step=4&showunits=inches&id=312&top_cat=1 (7) A second spacer ring for the larger flame nozzle above is provided by 1.500” O.D (tolerances of minus nothing to as much as 0.005” oversized), by 1” I.D. D.O.M tube by 1-1/2” long, cut from as short a section of tube as you can order. With inside tolerances of plus/minus 0.005” on a mixing tube that may be plus 0.005” (but minus 0.000”) it may make a sliding fit, or take a small amount of power sanding to fit well on the mixing tube: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7793&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 (8) The fan mounting plate is 1/2" thick by 4” wide aluminum flat bar, cut 4” long cut from a 12” piece ($12.75 and shipping): https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1171&step=4&showunits=inches&id=997&top_cat=60 Because the mixing tube is held in place by a collar ring that is fit-up to the funnel (a tapered part), and all the other tubing parts fit to the collar, or to each other, there is no need to wait for the funnel or fan’s arrival before ordering all your tubing parts. Because the material for your aluminum mounting plate and flange ring (parts eight and nine) are considerably larger than the fan, they can also be ordered ahead of time. (9) The flange ring must be steel, stainless steel, or brass, so you can braze it to the funnel. A 12” length of 1/8” by 4” stainless steel flat bar is convenient ($14.47 and shipping): http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=646&step=4&showunits=inches&id=27&top_cat=1 Or, a piece of 4” wide by 1/8 thick cold roll flat bar is only $5.67: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6809&step=4&showunits=inches&id=199&top_cat=197 (10) Seven 10-32 by 3/8” long stainless steel set screws for the smaller of the two flame nozzles, and/or seven 10-32 by 1/2” long stainless steel set screws for the larger of the two flame nozzles. These set screws must be stainless steel; not mild steel. No lubricant will keep mild steel screws used on the flame nozzle from freezing in place after a few heats; this will prove disastrous when the nozzle must be removed to swap out nozzle sizes, or for replacement of a worn out nozzle later on. Frozen screws must be drilled out, and replaced with larger set screws, necessitating rethreading and purchase of larger drill bits and taps; just don’t go there. (11) Three 10-32 by 1/4” long set screws for the collar; these screws should be stainless steel. If you employ mild steel screws, make sure to use a lubricant on them before installation. (12) Size and length of the four machine screws needed for fan to mounting plate screws can't be decided before the fan arrives (see item 19 below); they should be small enough to fit through the fan’s plastic holes with room to spare, and long enough to penetrate the fan body (with flat washers in place), and 3/8” into the 1/2” thick flat bar. Buy four flat washers at the same time you get these four screws. Use a tap and drill chart to figure the drill and tap bit size to match up with your thread size: http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm (13) You also need four shorter machine screws (3/8” long) to hold the mounting plate to the flange plate. Buy four flat washers at the same time you get these four screws. (14) One foot of 1/4" fully annealed refrigeration tube; you’ll probably only use four or five inches of it, but hardware stores simply aren’t interested in cutting soft tube off the coil for you in less than one foot lengths. If you decide to screw the gas jet in position on the end of the refrigeration tube, you will want to use a 1” long piece of 5/16” refrigeration tube. or provide some brass tubing to silver solder over the prtion to be threaded on the gas tube. (15) Buy four flat washers at the same time you get the four screws. (16) You can use a Tweco 14T-030 MIG contact tip for the gas jet (the 030 designation stands for the welding wire size; actual orifice size is 0.038”), you can order it online, or buy it directly from your local welding supply store. Use an 0035 tip (actual orifice size is .044”) with the larger flame nozzle. (16) Rio Grande carries five different temperature ranges of silver braze filler alloys: Extra easy; easy; medium; hard; and extra hard. Their version of easy-flow silver braze has a flow range of 1240 °F (625 °C) to 1325 °F (671 °C); it contains 65% silver content and sells for about eleven cents per inch. If you’re going to buy a stainless steel filler alloy separate from the flux (rather than a braze kit), this is the one I’d recommend first: http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Silver-Wire-Solders/101100?Pos=1 (17) Handy Flux Type B-1 Paste a product of Lucas-Milhaupt, Inc. Handy Flux B-1 (boron modified) is especially suited for brazing high chromium stainless steels, tungsten & chromium carbides. and molybdenum alloys; it has an active range of 1100°F (600°C) to 1700°F (926°C). This product may be thinned with water. When heated its flux becomes quite corrosive; post braze cleaning in hot water is necessary. This product can be ordered through participating welding supply stores, some plumbers supply stores, and HVAC dealers. If your local welding supply dealer only carries black flux for stainless steel brazing, it’s an acceptable substitute. (18) LA-CO aluminum flux paste by Markal is used for surface preparation and as a protective flux during heating of aluminum alloys, when soldering aluminum to aluminum, copper, chrome, brass, or mild steel with tin/silver solders (94/6, 95/5, 96/4, etc.), making it an excellent choice for trapping a copper gas tube in an aluminum fan mounting plate, and for trapping a capillary tube or MIG tip gas jet within the gas tube by soldering: http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/view/Markal/MAR434-22404.html LA-CO aluminum flux and filler alloy kits are available for $13.46 and shipping from Sears (also available through other online dealers): http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM3260651302P?ci_src=184425893&ci_sku=SPM3260651302&sid=IDx20130125xMPALLx028 (19) Tin-silver alloys are highly recommended for bonding aluminum to dissimilar metals or other alloys to each other (chrome, zinc, copper, brass, or steel); they can be found down at your local hardware store. (20) A threaded fuel hose fitting (9/16 left hand thread) for 1/4” hose (these are usually stocked by local welding supply stores): http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48763213 Or, you can use a 1/4" barbed hose nipple to attach 1/4" fuel hose directly to the refrigeration tube (these are also usually stocked by local welding supply stores). You will also need a worm-gear hose clamp to secure the bard in the hose: http://www.shoplet.com/Western-enterprises-Barbed-Hose-Nipples-17/SEPTLS31217/spdv?gdftrk=gdfV29298_a_7c42_a_7c92_a_7cSEPTLS31217 (21) One 70mm 12V axial fan with an airflow rated between twenty-three and thirty-one cubic feet per minute will work equally well on part 1A or 1B. If a finger guard is available for your fan, that makes a good addition. Axial fans are available from numerous online sources; check eBay first. (22) 120V AC to 12V DC wall adapter; “Wall warts” are available from numerous online sources like Amazon.com; check Amazon.com and eBay first. (23) Optional: 12V speed controllers are available from several online sources; try eBay and Amazon.com first: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R1.TR4.TRC1.A0.H0.X12V+speed&_nkw=12v+speed+controller&_sacat=0&_from=R40 (24) Optional; portable sealed lead/acid 12V batteries are available on line and locally from many sources; these light compact power sources provide dependable 12V DC in the field: http://www.batterysharks.com/12-Volt-5-5-Amp-Seal-Lead-Acid-Battrery-p/12v-5.5ah_ups12-5.5.htm (25) Permatex 24024 Low Strength Thread-locker isn’t just used on fan mounting plate screws; it’s also needed to ensure a seal between the mixing tube and coupling collar. Do not use thread locker on the flame nozzle screws: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24024-Strength-Threadlocker-Purple/dp/B000HBGHFY/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t Or, you can use Permatex 24024 Low Strength Thread-locker; it is available through Amzon.com, and possibly at your local auto supply store: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24024-Strength-Threadlocker-Purple/dp/B000HBGHFY/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t (26) If you employ D.O.M. tubing for the mixing tube and funnel collar, you will need heat resistant spray paint in a canister, which can be purchased at any auto parts store. (27) 3/4" by 3/4” by 3” aluminum or steel angle; this is used as an accurate steady rest for scribing tube lines parallel to its axis, to do proper layout of screws in tubing: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=970&step=4&showunits=inches&id=62&top_cat=60 Desired tools you might not already have (A) Digital calipers are recommended, but not vital: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Digital+calipers (B) 6” combination square: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-heavy-duty-combination-square-69362.html (C) Metal scriber (if there isn’t one on the combination square): http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-o-ring-hook-scribe-set-42159.html (D) Prick punch; preferably a spring loaded type (also called an automatic center punch), which leaves a punch mark that is only about 0.060” wide, for maximum accuracy; item #621 at Harbor Freight Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=automatic+center+punch Also available from Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1404777331&sr=1-1&keywords=center+punch (E) A regular 5/32” center punch to enlarge the small accurate center punch marks with before drilling: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-264E-Tapered-Diameter-Thickness/dp/B0006J4K88/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1404777331&sr=1-2&keywords=center+punch (F) The screw size needed for the fan to mounting plate screws can't be decided before the fan arrives, so tap, and drill sizes for these screws can’t be listed either. You also need a high-speed-steel drill bit a little larger than the screw size (for hole clearance where the shorter four machine screws pass through the funnel’s homemade flange collar). Even though you are going to deliberately use smaller screws than the fan’s four mounting holes (to ease fit up), you need to also buy one drill bit the same or only just smaller diameter than those holes, so that you can turn it while tapping gently in order to mark the exact center of each hole without buying a set of transfer punches; a tape wrapped nail can serve as a transfer punch too, but isn’t as accurate. (G) One #21 cobalt drill bit or two high-speed-steel bits for threading the socket head screws (H) One 1/8” Allen wrench and 10-32 starting tap for the socket head screws (I) One #3 drill bit and 1/4-28 starting tap for threading a Tweco MIG (metal insert gas AKA wire feed welder) contact tip, or one #14 drill bit and 12-28 starting tap for an MK MIG tip You may decide to thread the MIG tip into the refrigeration tube, by silver brazing a short section of a larger tube over it (ex. 1” long 5/16” refrigeration tube). The other method is simply to turn down the threaded section of your MIG tip and silver braze it into the refrigeration tube; this makes cleaning out of the gas jet more difficult, but I’ve never needed to clean tar out of a MIG tip with this large a bore, yet. Note: the MK tip has smaller thread which may require an inside double for the gas tube, instead of an outside doubler; check out the difference. (J) One hand held rotary tool and accessories kit is strongly recommended for those without lathes, but isn’t essential. Rubberized accessories are very handy for polishing the interior of the joint between funnel collar and mixing tube. Banggood.com is an excellent source for small orders of low priced high quality rotary accessories: http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-12mm-Sandpaper-Grinding-Wheel-80-600-Grit-Dremel-Accessories-For-Rotary-Tools-p-982946.html?currency=USD&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=all&utm_campaign=electronics-US (K) 4” half round file, if you don’t have a rotary tool and accessories kit, or a lathe. (L) Table-top drill press (recommended), or 1/4” hand drill (workable if you’re careful). (M) A Propane torch for soldering and brazing. You want to heat the parts with an intense pencil-point flame. If you dom’t already own a torch, you are better off to buy one that is rated for both propane and propylene, although propane will work. Propylene and propylene/LPG mixtures are usually sold as MAPP or MAP-pro gas in one-pound canisters. Magna Industries Inc. Map-Pro/Propane Heavy Duty Torch MT245C can burn either propane or the much hotter propylene; it makes a 2” long by 3/8” diameter very hot pencil flame. There is no air adjustment and the flame changes from a dark purplish blue oxidizing flame, through a light blue neutral flame by moving the needle valve; it can burn propane and propylene, and gets plenty hot enough silver to braze schedule #40 stainless steel pipe: http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT245C-Propane-Pencil-Burner/dp/B000646QRG/ref=sr_1_60?ie=UTF8&qid=1436067034&sr=8-60&keywords=propane+torch+weed+burner Also available through Sears: http://www.sears.com/magna-industries-inc-map-pro-propane-heavy-duty-torch/p-SPM11802534319?prdNo=35&blockNo=35&blockType=G35 (N) A slender propane canister is recommended over the standard fat little camp stove cylinders; the following canisters are also less expensive than what you’ll usually pay for those awkward old canister shapes: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Propane-Gas-Cylinder-304182/202044700?MERCH=REC-_-atcmodal_rr-_-202539579-_-202044700-_-N Propylene also comes in slender canisters; it can be ordered online or found at many hardware stores, including Loews: http://www.lowes.com/pd_387417-743-MG9_1z0wcii__?productId=50126391&pl=1 Alternatively, you can employ a Worthington Cylinders extension hose on your torch as your most convenient option: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Torch-Extension-Adapter-309336/dp/B002FXGLV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438223998&sr=8-1&keywords=Worthington+Cylinders+extension+hose (O) See section on drilling holes in aluminum to decide on what tool and method to employ for making the fan mounting plate’s center hole. Lathe mounting is fastest. (P) 9” or more of 3/8” all-thread rod or a carriage bolt, along with two nuts and two fender washers are used to hold the collar and funnel tight together and in line axially, during silver brazing. The aluminum mounting plate and a 1-1/4” flat washer that is center drilled to clear the all-thread, can also help hold the funnel and collar axially true, while they are being silver brazed together, if you have trouble finding fender washers. For option “B” a sheet metal washer can be made to match the fan body opening, and is recommended for greater accuracy in parts alignment. (Q) Set of dividers Tubing parts are chosen to fit up as conveniently as possible to each other, and with the funnel, but tubing tolerances are a limitation beyond your control, which nevertheless must be dealt with. If you find it puzzling that you need to turn, or sand and slit parts to bring this about, when another part would seem to fit better, I suggest you double check the actual fit you may end up dealing with, should its listed tolerances not work out in your favor. Note: You aren’t dealing with perfectly round shapes; therefore, rotate tubes when you slide them together, and note the place of best fit. Tolerance variances can still leave you facing loose fit-ups at times; in that case, use tape to center your parts within each other, and to keep them from slipping out of alignment while you drill and thread them for permanent fit-up. The tape will burn out between flame nozzle and spacer rings; this changes nothing once the parts are locked together by socket head set screws. The space left between these two parts won’t be great enough to entrain air into the fuel/air mix, and so causes no problem. Electrical tape will remain in place between the mixing tube and funnel collar, helping to seal imperfect fits against gas leaks in this area of the burner. While all-stainless construction looks nice on burners, D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel) mild steel tube is less expensive, and is easier to cut, drill, and thread, with closer tolerances and roundness than any other kind of tube. Also, prices on larger stainless steel tube diameters for burner mixing tubes quickly escalate (on 3/4” burners and larger), so D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel) tubing makes an excellent alternative to all-stainless tubing burners in the larger sizes. D.O.M. tubing is seamless (no raised weld seam projecting into the tube), but you must order seamless tubing to ensure getting a relatively smooth interior in any other kind of tubing, including stainless. The downside is that mild steel needs to be coated with heat resistant paint, which will burn away near the burner’s hot end, so don’t paint the mixing tube’s last 4” on its forward end. Step one: Drilling, threading, and fitting up the flame nozzle or nozzles, and funnel collar. Clean away internal and external burrs from the section of tube you cut for a flame nozzle, spacer ring or rings, and funnel collar. Use the dividers or digital calipers to lay out the two flame nozzles and funnel collar into three equidistant spaces, and employ a small section of steel or aluminum angle as an automatic parallel rest for your scriber. Extend the three marks into scribe lines that run parallel to the tubing axis. Measure two sets of cross lines on the flame nozzle(s) at 5/16” in from their rear edges, and also at 1-3/8” forward of their rear edges. Mark the funnel collar’s single row of cross lines centered between its rear and forward edges. The only reason the collar measures 2” long is to provide sufficient length to ensure that the gas jet centering tool can position the jet accurately. Step two: After cleaning away internal and external burrs from the spacer ring(s); slit and/or sand it/them as necessary to press fit it or them into the flame nozzle (turn it/them for a press fit if you have a lathe); if a ring’s outside diameter is undersize to the flame nozzle, you can use tape between the ring and nozzle to keep them snug, parallel, and centered with each other during drilling, threading, and mounting of the set screws. Next, drill and thread two rows of three equidistant holes for 10-32 by 1/2” or 3/8” long stainless steel set screws (depending on what tubing you actually end up using for the flame nozzle and spacer ring). Afterward, chase (rethread) the set screw holes, and repeat the internal sanding of the spacer ring or rings. Again, chase the threaded holes. Keep repeating these processes until no internal burrs or swelling is left to interfere with a sliding fit of the flame nozzle/spacer ring assembly on the mixing tube. Drill and thread the funnel collar holes for 10-32 set screws, and file or power sand away any internal burrs and deformations caused by threading stainless steel. Set screws come with sharp forward faces, which you want to remove with a file or rotary tool; otherwise they will scar the mixing tube, creating future complications. The easiest way to do this is to drill and tap a 10-32 threaded hole in a flat bar, and run each set screw into it until the screw’s forward face is exposed above the flat bar’s surface. And power sand it flat; Next, turn the flattened screw enough to raise the thread’s pointed end above the flat bar’s surface, and file the thin thread end down to a taper so that it doesn’t bend back out of alignment or break off in a burner part, binding it. Photo of four setscrew faces protruding above a flat bar surface showing all three stages of the work (before and after) Stainless steel is famous for work hardening, and then snapping off the end of a tap, or melting the tip of a drill bit. On top of that, you are: (1) Using one of the tougher ferrous alloys (2) Running thread through extra thick tube walls (3) Using a hole size recommended for soft non-ferrous metals, in order to end up with threads strong enough to stand up to clamping pressure without being stripped. So, you need to carefully read and follow the recommendations for drilling and threading stainless steel found in that section, before working on these parts; neglect any of the drilling and threading procedures for stainless steel, and your chances of a broken tap are better than even; disregard any two of them and a melted drill bit or broken tap is all but certain. If you employ the Metrokane funnel (part 1A); it is a 2-3/4” I.D. heavy wall stainless steel aerating wine funnel (when used with the collar), with a convex curved cone shape. The inner part you see in photos simply lifts out; it is $18.63 and (possibly free) shipping from amazon.com, but can sometimes be bought for less through their alternate sellers. Because it has no flange, the wine funnel is going to require more work than a typical kitchen funnel, by needing a flat connection ring to be silver brazed in place on the funnel’s large end. The silver braze filler you’re using to affix a mounting collar on the funnel’s small forward end, will also work well for brazing the flat ring on, which then becomes a perfect flange plate. Or, you may choose to employ the funnel from a stainless steel french-fry holder (Part 1B); doing so further decreases safety as this part is a straight taper, which creates more back pressure near the fan. Because the taper is even along its entire length, you can trap the funnel against the aluminum fan mounting plate with a carefully constructed mild steel, stainless steel, or brass flat ring, instead of needing to silver braze one to the funnel wall, but cutting and power sanding the ring opening is more than a little tricky (if you mess up the fit, it can always be silver brazed onto the funnel). Funnel dimensions are 5” diameter by 7” long; this stainless steel cone weighs one full pound before cutting; this part is also good for use on 1”, 1-1/4”, and even 1-1/2” burners, but only by cutting away its small end end, and brazing the it to a coupling tube, and trapping or brazing the large one to a flange ring the large end must also be cut back to reach an optimum diameter, so as to match up with your fan motor opening; which means you don’t want to lay out for the cut on the large end until your fan arrives. Step three: Joining the funnel and coupling collar. A large washer is trapped over the funnel collar; this is pushed snug against the aluminum mounting plate through a small hole (before it is enlarged to its finish diameter) by a long bolt or length of all-thread (used as a brazing assembly tool to hold funnel and collar in place); the more accurately the two parts are placed the better it will remain lined up with each other. Also, by making a temporary wood or aluminum "washer” the same size as the fan body opening, and trapping it inside the funnel against the bolt head at right angles with a nut, or keeping it at right angles to the all-thread with two nuts, it becomes the perfect layout tool for making an accurate cut line in the cone's large end. Go ahead and scribe an inside line next to this washer, and cut away the excess material afterward. A brazing assembly consisting of 9” or longer all-thread rod or a carriage bolt is used (3/8” or larger is best; smaller thread bends too easily) along with the aluminum mounting plate, four nuts, and a fender washer, in order to hold the funnel and collar in line while they are being joined. The whole assembly is held tightly together and axially true for silver brazing this way. Read the book section on silver brazing, paying particular attention to the part titled “Procedure for joining thick mild or stainless steel coupling tubes to thin S.S. funnels.” You will then be ready to cut away the excess material beyond the scribed inside line at the funnel's large end. Of course, the line will be a little bit oversize because of the washer's thickness, unless you grind a bevel on the washer’s edge, allowing it to sink further into the cone. Cut a little way short of the line, and then power sand the excess cone material away to reduce your way down to it. Keep checking the fan opening with the funnel for a match as you go. Your funnel opening should now make close to a perfect match between cone edge and fan body opening. It takes a minimum of 53% silver content for filler alloys to be effective when brazing stainless steel parts, and those are difficult to find. However, 56% and higher silver content brazing alloys are easily available on the open market, and will work better on stainless to stainless & stainless to mild steel, brass, or copper joints; they have the lowest temperature flow range (around 1100 to 1200 °F (593 to 649 °C), and best wetting characteristics. High silver content filler alloys are the only ones that are going to work well on S.S funnels. Power sand a bevel on one end of the coupling tube (the end that already exists on the tubing length you buy) to match the cone angle; this pretty well assures a good match up with the funnel, and should be used for the beveled end; the other end, which you will also cut, must be double checked with a square, and power sanded to a reasonable proximity to perpendicular with its axis, or trued up with a lathe. How close is close enough? Without a lathe you won’t even approach perfection; nor do you need to. The tubing end only needs to be accurate enough not to slip sideways from clamping pressure during brazing, and kept in a flat plane. Double checking your work with a square will bring you more than close enough for your needs. Photos here You need a smooth joint on the inside surface between the funnel and collar. After brazing, shine a light into the funnel and inspect the joint for a smooth transition; also explore it with your finger. If the joint isn’t perfectly smooth you must fill the problem area with aluminum putty or soft solder (don’t try to braze the joint a second time); power-sand the area afterward to gain a smooth transition. Otherwise, you could lose considerable laminar flow at this point. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=aluminum+putty&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aaluminum+putty The collar must be ground so as to mate up closely to the funnel’s taper; this is very important to proper whetting of the silver braze alloy in the collar to funnel joint, Next, the end of the funnel must be scribed to mark where it mates up to the funnel end; then a second line must be scribed further up the funnel wall, and the excess cut away. You have to provide enough excess for the filler alloy to completely cover the joint area. Finally, the joint must be cleaned, and the rest of the excess material must be filed or power sanded away back even with the inside surface of the collar. Afterward the joint between mixing tube and funnel must never be soldered or epoxy puttied, as the funnel is occasionally removed for maintenance work; instead, it should be sealed with low strength thread locker, to further smooth mixture flow, and to seal against possible gas leaks. Step four: Mounting the flange. The funnel & collar assembly still needs a flange with which to affix the aluminum fan mounting plate to the funnel; it should be a 4” by 4” by 1/8" thick sheet of mild steel, stainless steel, or brass (any of which can be silver brazed to a stainless steel funnel). You won’t necessarily be able to find exactly the size you need to order, and may be forced to cut out what you need from the nearest available size material. This part will mate up with the aluminum fan mounting plate’s other face, except that its center hole may be slightly larger than that of the aluminum mounting plate, and its exterior is cut to circle shape, to insure it can clear the four fan screws; it should be drilled for a separate four screws to affix the fan mounting plate through it. Scribe diagonal lines from corner to corner (in order to find the plate’s true center), and then center punch it with a prick punch for maximum accuracy when drilling. Employ a set of dividers to scribe a line matching the outside circumference of the funnel’s large opening, and then check both flat bar and funnel against each other. This method allows you to be sure that the center hole you’ll cut and power sand will end up centered with both the funnel and fan. Next, scribe an outer line with a 4” diameter. Drill four through holes at four equidistant points within 1/4” of the flange’s outer rim. Step five: Mounting the fan. The fan should be mounted on a 4” by 4” by 1/2" thick aluminum mounting plate (part 8), which is affixed with four screws, which will be drilled in the flange plate (part 9) that you just silver brazed onto the funnel. You deburr whichever end of the flat bar end is closest to square, and then finish squaring it. Next, you should layout a cut line 4” from that edge, deburring the second edge, and scribing two crossing lines between the four corners. You should center-punch the lines where they cross each other. Employ a set of dividers to scribe a line matching the funnel opening’s inside and outside diameters. After the fan arrives check its opening against the scribed circle; if the fan opening doesn’t match the funnel opening, scribe another circle, which matches the fan opening, on the plates other surface. Cut and power sand up to the inner side of the smallest circle line, once its use for a brazing jig part is done; then power sand at an angle to match the plate’s other face to just under the funnel’s inside line. This method allows you to be sure that the hole you’ll cut and power sand will end up centered with both the funnel and fan. Note: The fan hole in this part must not exceed the opening diameter in your fan body. You need to do your sawing well inside the scribed line and power sand up to it carefully, to avoid going outside that line. Unless you have a large lathe or drill press meant for metal work, it is unlikely you can lower cutting speed far enough to comfortably turn the part, or spin a hole saw large enough to cut the hole. Therefore you will likely need to use the “line of holes” method to drill it out, and then power sand back to a little inside scribed line. Drilling in line: Lay out the finish hole as mentioned above, and then lay out another line one-half the drill diameter plus 3/32” inside of the inner line; layout and punch mark each hole to be made in the line, so that the drilled holes will end up near to each other or just barely touching; then drill a line of holes. You are best off using a split point drill bit, which is specifically designed to self-center and stay where you start it. If you decide to use the cobalt bit, originally purchased for drilling the stainless steel parts, drill them first, because even #6061 series aluminum tends to gum up drill bits, and can dull their cutting edges if you don’t continually clean them with a brass bristled “tooth” brush. Use a cheap foam paintbrush to clean off the drill press after drilling each hole, and clamp the part in place each time with a small vice-grip “C” clamp; this will actually speed up the work. Note: It is better not to use a standard chisel point drill bit to drill the holes; they are notorious for their tendency to wander off center as the hole is started; if you don’t have a split point bit, enlarge the prick punch marks with a larger center punch, and pilot drill every hole first with a drill bit smaller than the enlarged punch mark; next, enlarge these holes past the width of the point on the finish drill bit size, to keep the larger bit from wandering. And then drill out the finish holes. Should you “mess up” the mounting plate’s fan hole, it isn’t necessary to live with your mistake; simply apply aluminum putty (make sure to clean the plate with acetone first, and use tape on the fan body): http://www.amazon.com/Hy-Poxy-H-45-Alumbond-Aluminum-Repair/dp/B001J9MO6O/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WEQWK3QZAZCXEWWKNRP Hopefully, you can use the same thread size for the machine screws through the flange plate as you use for socket head Allen screws on the flame nozzle; this will save in drill bit and tap costs. An exact match between fan opening and funnel opening is planned for. If you end up with a larger fan opening than funnel opening, you can drill your hole to closely match the smaller opening, and then power sand the hole wall on an angle to also match up with the larger fan hole. Don’t try to adjust for more than 1/8” difference this way; you are better off to use the next smaller fan size, instead. MAKE NO ATTEMPT TO CUT OUT THE ALUMINUM MOUNTING PLATE'S FAN HOLE OPENING BEFORE THE FAN ARRIVES. Caution: The fan hole, which the fan blows air through, can be a little on the small side (not smaller than the fan blade); but in no case can it be larger than the plastic rim that the fan blade is surrounded by. If you mess up the fit between these two parts, you will be reduced to fixing the poor fit with aluminum putty, or adding plastic (ex. hot glue) to seal the mounting plate to prevent some back-wash from the fan blade exiting the funnel area instead of being forced through it. You can’t ignore this situation, because that back-wash is not the minor problem it seems to be; in fact it will utterly ruin burner performance, and can also lead to back firing. Vortex burners are pretty forgiving about most construction details, but the connections between fan and funnel are critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Step six: Mounting the gas line and gas jet. You will be ordering about one foot of 1/4" fully annealed refrigeration tube, which has an inside diameter of 0.190”. You’ll probably use only four or five inches of it, but hardware stores simply aren’t interested in cutting it off the roll in less than one foot lengths. The section of 1/4" refrigeration tube is going to hold a 1-1/4” a MIG tip (part 15) for a gas jet at one end and a gas-tight fitting on the other end. Note: 1/4” refrigeration tube has an I.D. of 0.190”. MK brand MIG contact tips have 12-28 thread, which has a minor diameter of 0.1722” and a major diameter of 0.2160”; their 35 (.9mm) wire size tips have an actual orifice of 0.044” and a length of 1-1/2” (38.1mm); part number #621-0001; Praxair carries them, and they can be ordered online: http://www.mkproducts.com/Prod_Access_tips.htm You would probably want to silver solder an inch long section of 3/16” refrigeration tube inside to help to form thread. Or, you can use a Tweco 14T-030 and or .035 MIG contact tip for the gas jet; the smaller tip for the small flame nozzle, and the larger tip for the larger nozzle they are available online and at most welding supply stores, and spin them in the drill, under a file, to turn down the threaded end, and braze the tip into the refrigeration tube. You would probably want to silver solder an inch long section of 5/16” refrigeration tube outside to help to thicken the tube to offset losses forming the thread. Step six.docx Or, you can spin one Tweco brand tip size or the other in a hand drill, and file its threaded end down to fit within the 1/4” refrigeration tube. The contact tip is then silver brazed into the end of the tube. You can also silver braze a longer tube section onto the refrigeration tube and run 1/4-28 thread inside it, so that the tip screws into position (recommended), and the tube ends up stiffer. The refrigeration tube should be inserted through a side hole, by drilled in the mounting plate's center hole, forcing the tube from within center hole to beyond the plate edge. This side hole should be drilled out to run parallel to one of the fan's supporting ribs; the rib that the fan wiring runs under. So, you can't drill the side hole without having the fan for comparison either. Support ribs on most fans bridge the gap between edge and center at an acute angle rather than at ninety degrees, and it will become obvious to you that the gas tube will have to be bent in two places for the tube to end up in the center area immediately below the fan motor. You can’t easily adjust the gas tube’s centering after those bends are made. Keep two things in mind before allowing yourself to become discouraged by this task: In the first place, you can use another fan rib to lay out the gas tube on for visual comparison, before insertion; secondly, annealed copper tube is easily bent and re-bent so as to adjust the tube’s position perfectly; use of the centering rod (needed for silver soldering the tube in position in the next step) to help provide assurance that you can eventually stumble over the victory line, no matter how clumsy your efforts may seem at this point. The first bend is made after mounting the MIG tip. Ideally, you want the tip to end up between 1/4” and 3/8” short of the mixing tube entrance at the funnel’s small end. However, linear burners are very forgiving about whether or not your tip is placed in the “sweet spot” for distance from the mixing tube entrance. After the gas jet is installed in the 1/4" refrigeration tube, it gets pushed and pulled through the side hole. Then it is kept centered and aligned while the tube is being hard soldered into permanent position within the mounting plate by use of a centering rod, which you need to find or sand to the right diameter for a slip fit within the funnel’s mounting collar. Drill a 1/4" + hole in the end of the wood, plastic, or metal rod used to trap the gas jet's refrigeration tube centered and aligned to parallel with the tube axis. Note: The centering rod only needs to be a few inches in length (3” to 4” is fine). Afterward, you pull it out of the collar. Be sure to keep the centering rod for checking alignment during maintenance work, later on. La-Co aluminum flux and one of the tin/silver solders (ex. 95/5) is suggested for permanently affixing the refrigeration tube into place within the mounting plate. All other connections should be silver brazed. You must prep, bend, and fit the refrigeration tube, and then solder it into position as soon after drilling the side hole through the aluminum plate as possible; this means that you'll want the MIG tip mounted and the refrigeration tube’s first bend made before you even begin drilling the side hole. The reason for all this haste is that aluminum immediately begins forming a new oxide layer after drilling; the longer between drilling and soldering the more work your flux has to do to overcome that layer. Once the gas tube is fitted into position within the mounting plate, but before soldering it, the other end of the refrigeration tube gets a threaded fuel hose fitting, or a 1/4" hose barb silver brazed on, and you may want to cut the length of tube down to where you only have a couple inches of tubing protruding beyond the fan mounting plate's edge; this is done to keep flow resistance in the gas tube from increasing overmuch. Braze the hose connection in place (compression fittings aren’t recommended; they don’t need brazing, but have their own complications). Now you can solder the refrigeration tube permanently in position within the aluminum mounting plate. You will have access and a good view through the large center hole in the mounting plate, because the plastic fan is removed for this operation. If you’re new to soldering and brazing, pack wet paper or cloth around the MIG tip and gas connection, to keep those joins from overheating, before soldering the copper tube into your mounting plate. Use the play left in the straight section of tubing to flux the side hole and copper tube as best you can, before centering the MIG tip. With the wet packing in place around both ends, and the MIG tip held centered within the funnel collar by your centering rod, lean the whole assembly in a vertical position, and while heating the aluminum plate just enough to liquefy the flux. Next, heat the plate up will running solder into the hole until it starts running out the bottom of the plate. Lay the mounting plate flat and try to get a little more solder to suck into each end, and let the whole assembly cool. Remove the centering rod and packing. Next, bolt the fan back into position on the mounting plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Use the play left in the straight section of tubing to flux the side hole and copper tube as best you can, before centering the MIG tip. With the wet packing in place around both ends, and the MIG tip held centered within the funnel collar by your centering rod, lean the whole assembly in a vertical position, and while heating the aluminum plate just enough to liquefy the flux. Next, heat the plate up will running solder into the hole until it starts running out the bottom of the plate. Lay the mounting plate flat and try to get a little more solder to suck into each end, and let the whole assembly cool. Remove the centering rod and packing. Next, bolt the fan back into position on the mounting plate. Note: Keep the torch flame small; aluminum melts easily. If you don’t feel competent to do this soldering, then, sand the copper tube clean, and use permanent thread locker to do the job. Note: 1/4” refrigeration tube has an I.D. of 0.190”. MK brand MIG contact tips have 12-28 thread, which has a minor diameter of 0.1722” and a major diameter of 0.2160”; their 35 (.9mm) wire size tips have an actual orifice of 0.044” and a length of 1-1/2” (38.1mm); part number #621-0001; Praxair carries them, and they can be ordered online: http://www.mkproducts.com/Prod_Access_tips.htm You would probably want to silver solder an inch long section of 3/16” refrigeration tube inside to help to form thread. Or, you can use a Tweco 14T-030 and or .035 MIG contact tip for the gas jet; the smaller tip for the small flame nozzle, and the larger tip for the larger nozzle they are available online and at most welding supply stores, and spin them in the drill, under a file, to turn down the threaded end, and braze the tip into the refrigeration tube. You would probably want to silver solder an inch long section of 5/16” refrigeration tube outside to help to thicken the tube to offset losses forming the thread. Or, you can spin one Tweco brand tip size or the other in a hand drill, and file its threaded end down to fit within the 1/4” refrigeration tube. The contact tip is then silver brazed into the end of the tube. You can also silver braze a longer tube section onto the refrigeration tube and run 1/4-28 thread inside it, so that the tip screws into position (recommended), and the tube ends up stiffer. The refrigeration tube should be inserted through a side hole, by drilled in the mounting plate's center hole, forcing the tube from within center hole to beyond the plate edge. This side hole should be drilled out to run parallel to one of the fan's supporting ribs; the rib that the fan wiring runs under. So, you can't drill the side hole without having the fan for comparison either. Support ribs on most fans bridge the gap between edge and center at an acute angle rather than at ninety degrees, and it will become obvious to you that the gas tube will have to be bent in two places for the tube to end up in the center area immediately below the fan motor. You can’t easily adjust the gas tube’s centering after those bends are made. Keep two things in mind before allowing yourself to become discouraged by this task: In the first place, you can use another fan rib to lay out the gas tube on for visual comparison, before insertion; secondly, annealed copper tube is easily bent and re-bent so as to adjust the tube’s position perfectly; use of the centering rod (needed for silver soldering the tube in position in the next step) to help provide assurance that you can eventually stumble over the victory line, no matter how clumsy your efforts may seem at this point. The first bend is made after mounting the MIG tip. Ideally, you want the tip to end up between 1/4” and 3/8” short of the mixing tube entrance at the funnel’s small end. However, linear burners are very forgiving about whether or not your tip is placed in the “sweet spot” for distance from the mixing tube entrance. After the gas jet is installed in the 1/4" refrigeration tube, it gets pushed and pulled through the side hole. Then it is kept centered and aligned while the tube is being hard soldered into permanent position within the mounting plate by use of a centering rod, which you need to find or sand to the right diameter for a slip fit within the funnel’s mounting collar. Drill a 1/4" + hole in the end of the wood, plastic, or metal rod used to trap the gas jet's refrigeration tube centered and aligned to parallel with the tube axis. Note: The centering rod only needs to be a few inches in length (3” to 4” is fine). Afterward, you pull it out of the collar. Be sure to keep the centering rod for checking alignment during maintenance work, later on. La-Co aluminum flux and one of the tin/silver solders (ex. 95/5) is suggested for permanently affixing the refrigeration tube into place within the mounting plate. All other connections should be silver brazed. You must prep, bend, and fit the refrigeration tube, and then solder it into position as soon after drilling the side hole through the aluminum plate as possible; this means that you'll want the MIG tip mounted and the refrigeration tube’s first bend made before you even begin drilling the side hole. The reason for all this haste is that aluminum immediately begins forming a new oxide layer after drilling; the longer between drilling and soldering the more work your flux has to do to overcome that layer. Once the gas tube is fitted into position within the mounting plate, but before soldering it, the other end of the refrigeration tube gets a threaded fuel hose fitting, or a 1/4" hose barb silver brazed on, and you may want to cut the length of tube down to where you only have a couple inches of tubing protruding beyond the fan mounting plate's edge; this is done to keep flow resistance in the gas tube from increasing overmuch. Braze the hose connection in place (compression fittings aren’t recommended; they don’t need brazing, but have their own complications). Now you can solder the refrigeration tube permanently in position within the aluminum mounting plate. You will have access and a good view through the large center hole in the mounting plate, because the plastic fan is removed for this operation. If you’re new to soldering and brazing, pack wet paper or cloth around the MIG tip and gas connection, to keep those joins from overheating, before soldering the copper tube into your mounting plate. Use the play left in the straight section of tubing to flux the side hole and copper tube as best you can, before centering the MIG tip. With the wet packing in place around both ends, and the MIG tip held centered within the funnel collar by your centering rod, lean the whole assembly in a vertical position, and while heating the aluminum plate just enough to liquefy the flux. Next, heat the plate up will running solder into the hole until it starts running out the bottom of the plate. Lay the mounting plate flat and try to get a little more solder to suck into each end, and let the whole assembly cool. Remove the centering rod and packing. Next, bolt the fan back into position on the mounting plate. Note: Keep the torch flame small; aluminum melts easily. If you don’t feel competent to do this soldering, then, sand the copper tube clean, and use permanent thread locker to do the job. Step seven: Finishing the flame nozzle. When checking fit-up between the completed flame nozzle and mixing tube section, remember to rotate the mixing tube within the flame nozzle/spacer ring, as none of the three tubes is perfectly round. Do not tighten any set screws until after making test runs. Once you are sure where the nozzle position is best, tighten the set screws on either side of the spacer ring slit first (if it has one). Tighten the set screws opposite the slit last; otherwise they can force the spacer ring so tightly against the inside of the flame nozzle that the other four set screws can’t be tightened down properly. Heat the nozzle to incandescence, and finish tightening the set screws. Step seven: Installing a locking screw. Determine the “sweet spot” for best flame nozzle position by testing the burner up and down its pressure range. Afterward, you should install one finale set screw; this one is to penetrate nozzle, spacer ring, and mixing tube, locking the nozzle in position on the mixing tube. This set screw should be placed midway between two of the existing set screws. Note: If you have built both flame nozzles, than you will need to install a locking screw for each of them, and the screw for one nozzle should simply be placed to enter the mixing tube higher up on the second nozzle than the set screw position of the first nozzle you mount. Otherwise, you can simply place the screw between two other set screws in the bottom row. Be sure to tighten the existing set screws, before drilling, threading, and screwing the locking screw in place. The “sweet spot” mentioned corresponds to an optimal amount of overhang between a mixing tube’s forward edge and a nozzle’s forward edge; start with 1-8” overhang for the smaller nozzle and 1-1/4” with the larger nozzle. Keep the set screws backed off enough to allow the flame nozzle to slide a little bit on the mixing tube. Place the long end of your Allen wrench in one of the set screws to act as a convenient handle, and move the nozzle back and forth on the mixing tube, while watching your flame. Each nozzle size will use a different amount of overhang. Note: Neutral flames are light blue, with sharp outlines and little to no secondary flame showing. Photos here Proper ignition, tuning, and shutdown procedures for this burner: It is necessary to ignite the fuel/air mixture from the burner’s forward end (in front of the flame nozzle), BEFORE STARTING THE FAN MOTOR. Never attempt to light the burner from its rear (through the fan). Do not expose a burner’s fan area to heat or ignition sources, and trap the burner securely in place before allowing fuel gas to enter it. Minimum gas pressure for this burner is 7 PSI gauge pressure without the fan running. Maximum recommended gas pressure is 30 P.S.I. Note: With the flame nozzle heated up, a final tightening of all set screws but the locking screw needs to be done, to keep them from loosening during use; because this puts them under great pressure when the burner is cold, it must be heated again before removing set screws in preparation for changing nozzles. During shutdown, the fan must be left running after shutting off the gas feed, until the heating equipment is completely cooled down and ready to be stored, or the burner must be removed from the equipment at shutdown, and the fan left running until the burner is cooled to room temperature. If your equipment has a burner port with three to six aiming screws, completely removing the burner during shutdown can be a hassle. For a burner this large, the screws can be loosened just enough to allow the burner to be pulled back into the burner port until its flame nozzle encounters the screws, and then left in place with the fan running until the equipment is room temperature; then moved back into position and secured, after the cool-down period is finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 END what; no questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Aside from the sections on shop practice, the burner construction portion came to about 29 pages of instructions, so don't expect to master it in one go. And I'm somewhat less than sharp as a razor these days, so don't be surprise to find some errors in this latest edit. You have enough information to succeed in making the burner; once you do, it will prove to be all I promised, and will seem obvious as you look back on the experience. The generation four tube burners (Mikey burners) in the last book required about five years for word of mouth to overcome general disbelief of its claims for them, even though I deliberately understated their power. This series stands head and shoulders above them. What is special about Vortex burners for me is that it will open eyes about what can really be done when a burner is designed to get more out of a fan then just push air through it. After all, naturally aspirated burners have become the big winners lately, and its time for the teeter-totter to shift back the other way; if you put this ability to work on ribbon burners, there should be another breakthrough. Blacksmiths could end up with a confusing amount of choices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 That's a lot to read and digest Mike. Thanks. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 I'm of three minds about my teaching methods: (1) A blow by blow verbal description is the only way to get some ideas across, but... (2) A picture is worth a thousand words. Yet, my first book had 120 drawings, with clearly worded captions, and it wasn't enough. (3) Your burner is about as simple as it gets, and people still make complaints about how they can't find parts, that we all now are available everywhere! Perhaps, I should take up cartooning and write comic books about burner building? I know that you know it can get frustrating, but getting cranky doesn't address the problem. So, I keep on thinking about it, like a dog chasing its tail. On the over hand, my chosen hobby has introduced me to so many fine people, I can't even pitch a bitch about it, Aha; the real problem emerges; time for Mikey's Valerian and coffee . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Ain't that the truth Mike. It's like the deadwood on a job, guys'll expend more energy and thought on how to dodge work than the work requires in the first place. They're always going to be around, idiots in the be nice sector have done their best to protect the stupid gene in the human pool. I used to have more tolerance but the TBI makes it a lot harder not to treat them like they deserve. Playing here on Iforge helps a lot, I have to be nice or I get talked to. I still have days but I can usually restrain myself from telling idiots what I really think of them. I had to repolish a talent I'd developed in the BBoard days when flame wars were the norm. I had to learn a healthy don't give a crap attitude. I'll help folk when I can kids now days really NEED help with basic hand skills schools don't teach practical skills anymore it's all aimed at keeping them in school as long as possible and collect public money. Still, you run across duds, folk who won't go so far as to read the directions before they ask how to do a thing. I love the ones who get angry when directed where to read. Like they're any more likely to understand directions I write off the top of my head more clearly than ones I spent a few days writing and editing before having someone else proof read and edit them. Sure, you or I could do just fine with a dimensioned drawing and parts list but you and I got to take shop classes, we have to learn to explain things to people who in many cases have never held a hammer. Heck, just today I unloaded a little curmudgeon on a . . . person who asked a incredibly basic question which has been answered more times than I'd care to count unless generously recompensed. Well, when he was referred to the section to look up his question he was miffed and responded so. His biggest complaint was the pronoun used in the reply. The PRONOUN! Good LORD what's this . . . person going to do if he skins his knee?! I don't know if he's even still allowed on the forum once he started calling Steve names . STEVE!! Of all the people on Iforge to call names, not only the person who told him where he could find the answers he wanted but the guy who can 86 him without a question. I shouldn't have vented my Curmudgeonly spleen on the silly . . . but he continued to complain and then lecture us on how we SHOULD address him. HIM, like he is deserving of regard beyond common courtesy. Frankly I think telling him how to do ANYTHING with sharp hard or hot . . . things is putting him in danger. He should find a safe hobby, I'd suggest flower arrangement but there are dangerous flowers, maybe nontoxic water colors on organic biodegradable paper. Anyway, if we don't help the kids who will? Within reason that is and the little hissy fit demons are good for me I'm getting better at just not responding to them at all anymore. Since the accident it's hard for me not to sit and simmer often over nothing but I'm improving. Thanks to the knuckleheads. Thank you knuckleheads! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 "To err is human." Yet, if we're trying to teach, it is important to hone our skills, and keep on reaching out to the teachable. Even if it is more satisfying in the short run to hurl stones at the monkeys You have an important new burner to perfect, and then write about; be encouraged by it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Air opening "why fores" came up again recently, making it plain that the importance of swirl, as it pertains to jet ejector burners still isn't clear. How a circular constriction will swirl incoming air should be "done to death" at this paint, but apparently, it just ain't so with burners with side opening air passages. Yet, every jet ejector burner swirls incoming air, just as surely, and in most cases, more strongly than an un-powered funnel would... If you except that fact, the shape of the air opening(s) matters a whole lot. When you create one or more openings in a side placed air opening, the air hase to make a turn as it passes into the mixing tube via the opening; and that is what causes the air stream to twist. And that is the last part of this little trick that is obvious. In example, I was asked why three openings cut into a tube would be better than two or four openings. I believe it is because odd numbers of openings (ex. 3, 5) allows the incoming air to not run straight into an opposite stream; but a don't KNOW it for true. If you position a gas jet at the end of a tubular opening in the back of a burner, it is not possible to create a stable flame, and if you increase the size of side air openings enough in a burner, you might as well be blowing a gas jet into the back of a burner tube; took about too much of a good thing! In another example, I have railed against holes as air opening shapes, yet several very good burner designs have round air openings; huh?!? Yep, they are circular...pipes; not holes. I picture the incoming air starting to swirl as it enters the pipe, and then swirl harder as that pipe dumps the air stream into the next tubular opening; the mixing tube. How do I know this is the case? I don't; it's just what I surmise. What I do know is that it works...well. Dang! That should have read "... talk about too much...". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Since everything you need to learn about Vortex burners stands on the foundation of their fans having impeller blades, you are likely to wonder how you can be certain that they do. Simply look at one at one of their large diameter disc shaped motors, and it becomes obvious; they typically cover more than half the center area of the fan opening, leading only a band around the blade’s periphery unblocked; an arrangement that will never be seen on a device intended to push air forward, but costs no efficiency in a device that slings air around its circumference. Yes, the fans do push air forward, to a minor extent. Just as other fans push air sideways, to an equally minor extent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ede Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Hey Mikey! It's really exciting to see your vortex burner development. I still have to complete the micro burner plans that you supplied before I attempt the Vortex version. I ordered the firepower torch over the summer but got detoured. The new burner design sounds really cool, and with that stainless funnel and axial fan, like it would be something out of a mad scientist movie. Thanks for taking the time to share. It's invaluable to have people like you, among the many others, who frequently contribute to the gas forges section. I'm learned so much from everyone here from reading these forums. Even those that do stuff the 'wrong', less efficient, or unsafe way as they will promptly be notified. Any idea on when you will have your next book out? I saw that the last 2004 publishing is out of print--at least on amazon. Good luck with the writing as I eagerly await the next publishing. Oh, and I saw this cool video over the summer: How To Make a Small Propane Foundry and Forge Burner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Thanks for those kind words, ede, The Vortex burner book has been through the the design and development phase; only revisions, editing, drawings, and photography remains; but all of those are ticklish tasks; they can't just be pushed through. But, I reviewed the 3/4" burner before posting it here, and am pressing on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 Revision on Vertex burner parts: I use stainless steel socket set screws for just about all parts on my burners. Socket set screws are used for applications where a fastener must sit flush or below a part’s surface, and therefore don’t have heads, but have a hex shaped pocket (AKA Allen socket) at the end of the screw; this makes them an ideal choice for parts like these, which are expected to slide past other parts in equipment. Stainless steel is used so that they don’t freeze in place after repeated heating cycles. These screws do come in a “flat face” version, but that won’t be found down at the local hardware store. The smallest size set screw you want to use is a #10. Because it has a pocket (3/32”) that fits the smallest hex wrench that can stand up to even minor torque forces without stripping out. You can change the amount of threads per inch, from the recommended number, without probable harm. What you will find is called a “flat point” version, which must be filled flat to keep them from scarring the parts they are holding in position. Socket set screw chart here: https://www1.mscdirect.com/PDF/FASTENERS/SocketSetScrews.pdf Drill and tap chart here: http://www.shender4.com/thread_chart.htm that should say 1/4" long set screws, and filed; not filled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 It is a good idea to round off the edge of the fan mounting plate’s side hole that the refrigeration tube bends around to make its right angle turn down into the funnel from; this helps to maintain the desired distance from the end of the right angle bend to the gas jet end where you intend it to be, and helps prevent the tube from drifting out of center in the mounting plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 If anyone is trying to build this burner, or even just trying to understand some particular point out of all that information, speak up. If you are having trouble with it, other people are too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ede Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 For those interested, you can still buy Mikey's book at Pieh tools: http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/p8969.html I'm going to pick up my copy next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Apparently, my publisher has chosen not to continue printing my book, and simply forgot to inform me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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