Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I found this online and would like some feedback before I send some money. Would this be a good starter anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdaleh Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Anvil shaped object not worth your money. In case you need a boat anchor than it would be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 10-4. That's what I needed to know. I knew $50 was too good to be worth it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boondoggle Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I got one of those from Harbor Freight years ago. Less than $20. Not sure it's steel, regardless of what the sticker says. Rather soft, makes a dull thud when struck. Made of whatever the magnet pulled out of the scrap pile. I use it to hold my desk lamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 At least there's that. Lol. I think I've decided to just go with a nice long piece of railroad track. Fairly cheap and it will start me hammering. I have a big job coming up and overtime will be used for an actual anvil. I found a Turkish farrier's anvil for $350. Free shipping on top of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Put the rail road track or other long piece of steel on end. More mass under the hammer that way, and better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 On 4/10/2016 at 7:56 PM, Ubba Bloodaxe said: Would this be a good starter anvil depends on what your going to use it for. straightening nails, yes. forging anything bigger that 1/4 in. probably not. keep your eyes open for something better- it looks rather small, but that mainly depends on what you plan on doing. Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I really just want to do knifes. Probably the largest would be a Scandinavian seax. Maybe 12 - 14" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I have to agree with finding a steel block or using rail on end. I used a 16" piece of rail on end for a few years before I found the anvil I bought and could've gone longer if I had to. Truth is I still have that rail and I'm thinking about using it for my son if he decides he wants to try when he gets a little older (he turns three in July so I still have a couple years). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 1 minute ago, Michael Cochran said: I have to agree with finding a steel block or using rail on end. I used a 16" piece of rail on end for a few years before I found the anvil I bought and could've gone longer if I had to. Truth is I still have that rail and I'm thinking about using it for my son if he decides he wants to try when he gets a little older (he turns three in July so I still have a couple years). So turning the track on end will reduce the working area but increase the mass under the hammer strike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Ubba Bloodaxe said: So turning the track on end will reduce the working area but increase the mass under the hammer strike? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 an example of the vertical method as applied to a fork lift tine...(and yes I'm that Thomas) http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 3 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: an example of the vertical method as applied to a fork lift tine...(and yes I'm that Thomas) http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 OK, so I was looking for anvils and found a huge hunk of iron. 90+ pounds long and wide...... $50. I think it will get me hammering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 If it's cast iron I wouldn't pay US$20 for it; if it's cast steel I'd be happy to have it in my shop. Unfortunately I don't think the seller knows enough to say what it really is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubba Bloodaxe Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: If it's cast iron I wouldn't pay US$20 for it; if it's cast steel I'd be happy to have it in my shop. Unfortunately I don't think the seller knows enough to say what it really is. Keeping my fingers crossed. I think it's steel. Is there a test I can do to truly determine the makeup and quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 I see what looks like several welds seams in that one that makes me think it's actually hollow. I'd ask the seller to send a picture of the bottom and ask if it's solid or hollow. Try looking at the local scrap yards machine shops etc for a solid chunk of steel. It'll be cheaper and easier in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ytuyuty Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 I would be great for leather work - setting rivets, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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