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I caught up with a RR rework crew.  I was the only one stopped at the crossing (out in the country) so what the heck I asked and they threw some of what they had in the truck.  I know there's a spike in the middle what are the other two pieces and what kind of steel are they.  The "pin" sure didn't want to cut on the chop saw.  

Thanks

old guy trying something new

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I'm not sure about the the top pin-like object geussing it is some sort of pin though

The bottom piece is called a "clip". They can be put in with the 1050-1060 steel range. They are a good oil quench steel and temper at about 415. That's as for as my knowledge of them goes. But there is SO much more metal in them then what they look to be.

Good luck!

-EJ

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The lower piece is a rail anchor. They hammer it onto the flange or a railroad rail right next to the tie. It prevents the rail from slipping with respect to the tie.

Not sure what they ae made of. I searched the internet but ran out of time before finding the answer.

I have used them for punches and drifts   and other tooling. They will accept heat treating very well.

Considering what they are designed and used for, I'd say any load you could put on them will be trivial.

 

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The "pin" is exactly that,  a locking pun used to secure the train car couplers. They have multiple redundant locking systems, and apparently the pin is the first to fail. At least that's according to my buddy with the railroad. And it will make an awesome hammer. ..BUT DO NOT WATER QUENCH. Feel free to ask how I know =)

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The recommendation is always to quench mystery metal in oil. I failed to do this on my very first hammer made of a coupler pin, and ended up with a fun conversion piece. It split in four different directions. ...just from the quench. Lesson learned. Great steel though.

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I'm low tech and have used old motor oil, however if you read up in the knifemaking areas of the forum you will learn lots about the various quenching liquids..very helpful info. Most folks use vegetable oil to quench when oil is called for. Not sure why, perhaps someone far more knowledgeable can chime in.

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A rural or industrial Oil Supplier will be able to order "quenching oil" lots of different grades and speeds.  Plain hydraulic fluid works a bit better than multigrade motor oil. Some guys HATE the smell and how slick it is and use peanut oil, or other veggie oil, but they will go rancid on you, and for some people that would be a worse health risk than the used motor oil... You don't want to breath this stuff any way...

A steel 5gal bucket with a lid near the door with a fan, and nothing flammable near it, cause it will flash and catch fire, that's why you need the lid...

I would expect the pins to be a wear and shock resistant alloy,(probably Nickel, Chromium, maybe some Vanadium??? Just guessing...)  You might try just letting it air harden/ normalize, and see how it does???  If it's not hard enough then do an oil quench...

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I've got some Peanut oil we cooked a few Turkeys in to use that should make the shop smell like Thanksgiving see how many people that draws!!  I was going to recycle it but after reading here the last few weeks I'll keep it. 

Used Motor oil you best be careful the engine didn't have a fuel injector problem and filled the engine with gas or someone didn't drain a fuel filter in the drain bucket that can make for a spectacular quench.   

 

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Thanks all

I'll make tools with the pins and anchor clips.  Then more practice with the spikes.  We just got back from clearing a hundred year old barn for demo.  Lots of usable stuff came back to the shop.  Now if the weather clears up I can get to work. Forge is outside. 

 

Thanks again!

Papy

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could we have a picture of your finds? im always interested in barn finds.

                                                                                     Littleblacksmith

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Best stuff was a shame.  Someone had thrown the tack outside and the leather was rotten.  I took the rings and made the hammer holder this afternoon.  I have a bunch more rings now just need some more hammers. The other pile is just useful stuff.  Good thing the shop is detached.  Snuck it all in before the "DG" saw I was home.  Best score left with my daughter for wedding decoration.  About 10' of hand made chain.  I would guess the chain to hang animals with. Several of the old cabinets and jars went home with them also.  Good day spent with the kids and grandkids.  Huh not sure how I got that that large.  

Papy

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rail clips are often 1050-1060 steel so about double the carbon of a RR spike.

Check the grain on the pin; looks a bit like one of the sprues from doing a thermite weld for rail., coarse dendritic structure will show up if so on the big end.

Used motor oil is a toxic mess, used fry oil is easy to obtain and to dispose of.  Best warmed to around 140 degF   now as to why one or the the other.  Take a large blade and quench in grungy old motor oil and then throw it in the kitchen over to temper; but first take a sheet of paper and write I, (your name) do declare this to be my last will and testimate and hereby bequeath all my blacksmithing and knifemaking tools to Thomas Powers of Socorro NM; then sign it and go tell your Spouse  what you have messing up their oven...I'll be waiting for the call from the estate lawyer...

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Mr. Powers,  glad you chimed in.  I must have missed it in my reading,  but what is the adverse effect of room temperature oil?  or is it just a matter of controlling variables to achieve a more consistent result?

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Warmed oil actually is a "faster quench" than cold oil due to viscosity effects.  I have an old smallish pressurized gas cylinder  with the top chopped off I use as a blade quenching tank.  I built a wooden holder for it so it's *HARD* to knock over accidentally  and I have a chunk of steel on a piece of 1/8" steel wire so I can heat it in the forge and then drop it to the bottom of the tank and hook the end of the wire on the edge when the tang gets just too hot to touch you remove the preheater and quench.  I also have a laboratory thermometer as once student though if 140F was good 450F must be better and could not understand why quenching at a higher temperature than your intended tempering temperature was a bad idea...  I also have a coffee can I can drop over the top of the tank if I need to quell any flames.  I know a smith who had a severe burn and burned down his shop trying to quench in a plastic bucket of oil...---oil caught on fire, bucket melted, unpleasantness occurred!

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