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Home anvil hardness

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Team, I just acquired a 300lb block of steel about 2 1/2 inches thick.  Only slightly dents with small ball peen hammer. Should I try case hardening or leave it alone? Suckered tings like a bell and has great bounce back already.

Throw some hot steel on it and get to it! It's hard enough as is. I guarantee it's harder than glowing iron. 

D

It is highly unlikely that you have the equipment required to bring a 300 lb. block of steel up to a temperature that would allow for case harding to do anything and I am not sure that case hardening would even do anything positive for your block of steel in terms of improving it for use as an anvil.   I would just use it as is.  You might possibly look in to the feasibility of welding a higher carbon, tougher steel plate to the top...maybe something air hardening to make it easier to deal with.

 

 

The more you use it the harder the face will become

  • Author

Thanks for the feedback folks. I am grinding a horn out of 4" hydraulic ram. Have to see how that hold up. Keep on banging!

Grinding a horn!? Find someone with a lathe, and get it done in minutes not hours....

Find someone with a powerhammer and forge it!  less of a hassle than using a lathe...

I don't know about that Thomas. My 18.5" x 54" Monarch has an 18" long taper attachment, and I have taken .500" deep cuts with a .015" feed rate.  I could probably have it whacked out by the time the bar was heated up.

  • Author

I live in a small town may be able to machine but have no idea where to get it hammered into a horn?

Take it right over there!  Kind of hard to make suggestions or offer to share equipment without knowing where you are at.

  • Author

Wish me luck. Just started clawing my forge. Clay.sand.embers/ash.and cement.  1:1:1:1/2       I'll let you know how it works

Forget the cement it behaves badly when HOT. What are the "embers" for?

Frosty The Lucky.

  • Author

Binder and insulation gapping read in a few posts 

Charged and crushed cinder actually

 

  • Author

Does everyone think it would be OK without cement to bind. I still have to fill some more?

 

This is semi brake drum forge, by the way.

I don't have much positive to say about semi drums for much of anything but stopping semis, fire pits and ground anchors. Where did you get the recipe you're using? It's got so much useless additions I don't know quite what to say.

Frosty The Lucky.

Where did you get your forge construction info from Ernie?

I'll guess it was not from reading the posts on this forum, had it been, you would have known not to use cement. You would have also known that when the likes of Frosty and the other learned members who have posted above tell you to omit the cement......you thank them for their insight and omit the cement!:D

  • Author

Did get it here and I will definitely lose the Portland 

  • Author

And your snide comments are SO helpful.  I'm learning here bud so throttle it down a little

And my forge will be lined with 1 inch plus steel plates I got free as part of an old truck scale. These things are massive and should stand up to any heat I can make with coal and charcol.  If I get good enough may get a gas one. Years from now

Ernie, you asked a question, if you read what I posted, you will see, I answered it. I aslo provided you with additional information. I added a emoticon at the end of the post to convey a tongue in cheek reply.

I will however comply to your "throttle down" request......consider the throttle closed!

 

  • Author

No harm no foul. Everything I have asked everyone has been super helpful. Found out about an old Amish smith close by that does training. Old skills are best when passed from the pros. Always glad to take the advise of the members who have all the experience.  Hope to pick your brain as well when I get up and running.

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