The only part or my first forge I am missing is the burner.  While I like the T-rex and just might order one, I am also looking at different DIY burners.  I actually have all the parts for the Reil (sp) burner but am not convinced this is the way to go.  So I am keeping an open mind. 

I read a reference to a burner that Frosty either designed or described, or sells but I can't find it anywhere.  Maybe I am completely blind but I don't see it.

Can someone please tell me where this burner is?

 

Thanks a bunch

The one that I use is called the frosty t burner. I think that a Google search should show something? (iI would help more, but it's tough on mobile) 

I've been making burners with plumbing "T" and off the shelf fittings for some time and have posted directions so many times. . .

Ron's burners work very well if you follow the directions religiously. Ron stopped responding to questions from people who'd rather ask questions than read directions. so, if you have questions about one of his burners just follow his directions I don't think he even reads burner related Emails anymore.

Yeah, I get the same thing all the time and I've posted detailed instructions many times. I'm happy to help but only with questions from folk who've read the gas burner section here. Pull up a comfy chair, pack a lunch, something to drink and settle in for lots of reading.

Once I get the final drawings finished I'll be making a pamphlet size set of instructions available. Till then though I'm burning out on telling people how to build the thing over and over and over.

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty,

I am not to lazy to read the directions, and I did not ask you to explain how to build one.  I just can't find the directions to read.  I will use the suggestion Xavier gave.  Maybe that will pull up something.

 

EDIT:  I am going to assume this is what folks were talking about, thanks Xavier.

http://anvilsandinkstudios.com/burner.html

Edited September 23, 201510 yr by natenaaron
Found a link

That's about how it looks, iI had writeup bookmarked and might even have the pictures saved on my computer. 

 

I found the Reil burner to be a breeze to put together, based on a careful reading of Ron's instructions.  There's a couple of different paths thru his documentation that all lead back to the same place. 

Worked first try, very little adjustment to do and still going strong 2 years later.

Just one of many links that include full descriptions of the Frosty T Burner. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43355-more-stupid-questions-from-a-newbie/

Something I cannot find the explanation for:

Why is the mig tip cut short?

Adjustment to flow.  MIG tip size approaches what is called a critical orifice.  The size and length limit the range of gas volume and velocity  possible.  

Jerry Frost, "T" burner or a combination of the same. 

Frosty,

I am not to lazy to read the directions, and I did not ask you to explain how to build one.  I just can't find the directions to read.  I will use the suggestion Xavier gave.  Maybe that will pull up something.

 

EDIT:  I am going to assume this is what folks were talking about, thanks Xavier.

http://anvilsandinkstudios.com/burner.html

Sorry, that came out worse than I intended it.

That is the concept drawing from my first prototype and so outdated as to be almost unusable. However if you want to, it's made with lamp rod and SPT fittings. It's much harder to align or find fittings to the fuel line. It worked with enough tinkering though.

The current build uses a 1/8" FPT x 1/4" compression fitting to  mount the jet and connect to the fuel line. I prefer 1/4" copper line connected to the burner for fire safety.

The jet is shortened to increase combustion air induction. The farther upstream of the air intake ports the jet is the more combustion air is induced. Start with the gap between the end of the jet and the beginning of the burner tube 1//2-3/4 the diameter of the burner tube.

Some fellows place the jet almost in the burner tube but if you read their specs. you see they're using 0.030" and in one case a 0.025" mig contact tip jet. They have to lower the amount of and really increase the velocity of fuel fed to the burner to get an acceptable air fuel ratio. Nothing wrong with whatever system works.

Frosty The Lucky.

Think of it this way. as the gas leaves the tip it spreads out and pulls air with it in the direction the gas is being sent. If the tip is to close to the tube the gas doesn't have enough time to grab enough air to make a proper mixture to get a clean combustion. If you look closely, you can actually see the gas leaving the tip. It creates an almost water like refraction of the light.

Thanks.  Pardon my ignorance but what is FPT?

Female pipe thread

Yes, using a MIG contact tip with a smaller orifice allows the gas jet stream to become more powerful, for better air induction. HOWEVER, you can get too much of a good thing, where gas molecules are traveling at too high a velocity to mix properly with inducted air. It's better to just follow the inventor's instructions in the first place.

The most extreme example I've seen is a canister mounted propane torch with a standard shaped gas orifice around .004"; it uses full cylinder pressure, which averages 150 PSIG, and works wonderfully...until that tiny hole plugs up with waxes and tar build up from the  propane...

So, what do we do then? You order a bit of piano wire online, and use it to poke the junk back out of that tiny hole.

1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said:

So, what do we do then? You order a bit of piano wire online, and use it to poke the junk back out of that tiny hole.

OR you can soak the jet in a solution of water and liquid bleach. Unfortunately the orifice might be small enough the solution doesn't flow easily. Warm the tip and drop it in the solution and let capilarity get the solution to penetrate but it's still going to take time to dissolve the gunk. Better to have a spare so you can keep working while one cleans out.

You could try solvents but I haven't and can't offer my observations. If you're going to give them a try might I suggest you start with the least aggressive, say: alcohol, turpentine, thinner, acetone,  before you move to gasoline, ether (be VERY careful with ether it's explosively flammable to make gasoline seem like a fire retardant) Lastly using proper PPE I'm betting tolulene or scarier yet, xylene might do the job.

Water and bleach works if more slowly, going fast has consequences you know.

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty,

Good alternative. I know these jets are standard parts, but not where to look for them; it would be nice to have that information. since I'm seeing them on more air-fuel torches all the time; any clue?

So, what can we do to tweak burner performance from a shorter tip? Try taking the gas pipe down to your local hardware store, and finding plastic tube that can be inserted in it, to improve laminar flow between pipe and gas jet, in order to get the same effect that Larry Zoeller did by switching from schedule #40 (about 14" I.D.) to schedule #80  (about 3/16" I.D.)1/8" pipe.

plastic tube which will withstand the heat it may get

Certainly, if you want to insert a metal tube, I wouldn't discourage it, but if that part gets hot enough to melt plastic, despite being cooled by the incoming propane, than you have a lot bigger problems to deal with!