? for any woodworkers out there....

[SpankySmith]

I make a LOT of crosses, from Frederich's to very large crosses that I typically mount on wood.  I'm sure this is an age-old question when working with wood, but I just don't know the solution.....

When cutting a piece of wood that I intend to stain, after sanding and shaping and such when I go to stain it the ends (the exposed grain ends) absorb a stain more deeply, resulting in dark edges on the ends of the cross, significantly darker than the body of the cross.  Sometimes that look is actually okay, other times I'd rather it be more in line with the body/face of the cross.  I'm certain there's a solution for this problem, I just don't know what it is?   Anyone out there hammer wood in addition to steel and can help me out here? 

 

Thanks!

[DSW]

One option would be to miter and trim the ends so that there is no end grain showing, sort of like banding the edge of a Formica counter top. Down side is it can add a lot of time/effort.

[SpankySmith]

I typically router the edges all the way around the cross, then sand - it reduces the end grain SOME but not enough, I still end up with that noticeably different color/depth to the stain on the grain ends.  I'm thinking a loooong time ago I saw some kind of woodworking show or something that mentioned pre-treating the grain ends with...something...to reduce this issue, but I have no idea what.   You wouldn't want to SEAL the edges because then it won't accept the stain at all.   hmmm.... gotta be a solution out there somewhere.  

Edited August 24, 2015 by SpankySmith

[ianinsa]

My suggestion would be one coat acrylic sealer on end grain light sand then stain, it'll reduce absorption. You can play using water as a thinner as wood type and moisture content will greatly effect stain absorption rates?

[SpankySmith]

I've read that gel stains typically do not absorb deeply into the open grains like a liquid stain does.  I'm using a liquid stain that is probably at least 40 years old?  I got it out of my dad's shop years and years ago, it has been my favorite, go-to stain since.  I will have to sit down and cry for a bit when I reach the bottom of the can (thankfully still have half the can left).  But the end grain thing might force my hand to locate a similar color gel.  I will have to do some experimenting with sealer on the ends, too.  

[Culver Creek Hunt Club]

In a pinch I have used a solution made with a water based wood glue and water. about 80-90% diluted. brush on, allow to dry and lightly scuff with sand paper. It basically seals up all the "straws" that make up the end grain and the stain will have a more even appearance.

[Charles R. Stevens]

One can also use oil stain base to seal the ends. Originaly this was linsead oil and thinner, with out the pigments It pits one coat of oil into the ends, dramaticly reducing the absorbtion of the "second" tinted coat. 

[SpankySmith]

Looks like I'm going to have to cut some test pieces and start experimenting with all these options.  Thanks, guys!

[LawnJockey]

What type of wood are you using?

[SpankySmith]

It varies greatly, I have some antique/salvaged wood, some plain ole pine, oak, hickory, pecan .... my shop wood pile has a little bit of everything in it.  

[Culver Creek Hunt Club]

Basically wood is nothing but a bundle of straws. taking in much larger quantities of the stain as compared to the face grain is what gives it the darker appearance.  Any option that lets you seal up the ends of the straws so they don't take the stain up will probably work for you. I think experimenting is the way to go. you will get a different result among species and even in dryness and age of wood. Good luck.

[Charles R. Stevens]

Another option ia to use the scratch hiding crayons to seal and tint the end grain and thenstain to mach i have also used boot past wax on unfinished furniture

Edited August 24, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens

[Kozzy]

You need to use a sanding sealer.  This would not only be true for end grain but also for some woods like Cherry and Alder which take stain unevenly.  The sealer plugs the pores so that things like end grain or uneven side grain don't act as a vacuum for the stain.

They also tend to have a secondary benefit:  The act as a grain raiser.  The grain of the wood surface gets compressed in the process of cutting, planing, and saning.  If you just sand and put a finish on, the compressed areas will expand when moistened and all that sanding which you thought was perfect will suddenly be rough again.  Normal procedure is to sand, wipe the surface down with alcohol or a similar quick drying agent which will cause the compressed areas to expand, THEN do a final sanding.  That's one of the steps that is required for a perfect surface.  Test this by taking a perfectly-sanded piece of wood and writing your name on it in water:  When you see (feel) what happens, you'll never skip the grain raising step again.

With a sanding sealer, the grain is raised and the wood fibers basically encapsulated.  You apply, let dry, do a finish sanding job.  In the stone age, the sanding sealer was just thinned shellac (which is alcohol based BTW).

One other step that can be important to a perfect finish is grain filler.  Some woods have very large pores.  You can NEVER get that glass finish without filling these up.  Grain filler is basically like the sanding sealer mentioned with but with some solids (often talc) that fill these pores.  It's like filling in a million tiny potholes.  You fill and then do your final sanding procedure.  Sounds like a lot of work but on woods like ash and oak, it's the difference between rough and glass-smooth.

Oh...and then you get into the advanced class of scraping instead of sanding on large flat surfaces.  That's too much to go into here but is what's needed to take the wood to the next level of perfection for the customers with really deep wallets.

[SpankySmith]

I think sanding sealer may be what my head had stored away that I'd seen mentioned somewhere many years ago.  Is that something easily available like in an HD or Lowes?  Any brand recommendation?  

[DSW]

Sanding sealer should be easily available at Lowes/Depot or any paint place. I don't use it enough to suggest a brand, though Minwax products have always been good to me.

[SpankySmith]

Yup, found it listed for both HD and Lowes locally, Minwax and Cabot seem to be all both carry.  Will give it a shot along with the other experiments mentioned here.  Thanks again, guys. 

[JHCC]

Here's a thought for you: why not just use a wood that's closer to the final color you want? Walnut gives a lovely chocolate brown, maple is a nice blonde color (and sometimes you can find pieces with attractive grain patters, like tiger, fiddleback, and birdseye), and cherry darkens in time to a really nice warm reddish-brown. Sand or scrape the wood smooth, give it a clear finish, and be done.

Another option is to do a "fire finish", which is to take a piece of wood (preferably one with a distinct pattern of growth rings, like oak or yellow pine), lightly char the outside over an open flame (got any open flames handy? ), and then brush off the charred surface with a stiff brush or a wire brush. With a little care, you get a terrific grain pattern and a nice color, and it's quite appropriate for forged work. Your bits of antique wood could do well.

[VaughnT]

Sanding sealer is the way to go.  You can make your own by thinning out varnish, say 4:1.

The key is to block some of the tubes in the end grain so they can't suck up the stain.  On pine, I find it's best to coat the entire wood in a thinned down sealer and then give it a light sanding.  This prevents the stain from going on blotchy or really darkening the growth rings of the tree.

[Forging Carver]

You have a few options to go with. You can try to just keep adding multiple coats to everything but the ends although this is not ideal. You can make a design with a router like some guys have said. You should also  make sure that you sand every part of the piece of wood very well. Make sure that you sand everywhere equally or else there will be color variation. Make sure you go up to 120 grit at least. Hope this helps