NathanSmith Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 G'day blokes, Sorry for sounding like a worry wart, but I've made a Frosty "T" burner (holy hotter then satan's butt), and it works really good. But Im just a bit worried about my gas line. I'm using what you yanks would call a 20 lb bbq propane bottle. I don't have a regulator. and just a ball cock valve neat the mig tip (about 10 inches away from it. I am guessing this is a tad unsafe? May I ask what would the best thing to use to make it safe. I do intend to get a regulator before I turn it on again/ Thanks in advance for any advice :) Cheers mates *(I'm from Oz) **(I'm new to gas burners) ***(I've only done a 6 second burn to see if it ignites). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 If your asking, you already know the answer, lol. But as your still alive to post it was safe enugh, lol. Sorce a regulator, and a proper rubber propane rated line. My rig (comertial) goes, tank, tank fiting, regulator, rubber hose, gas valve and then burner. Either sorce a 100# bottle or a statinary home delivery tank (rubber line not required for the home dillivery tank) I dont want my mate in Ferndale emailing me because he saw on the telly that some fool blew him self up with a forge, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 My shut off valve is at the top of the 1/8" nipple going into the tee burner. It has a plastic handle and doesn't get hot. My regulator with plastic gauge is above this. No problems. I do run the propane hose up before running over to the manifold mounted to the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 now if you are worried about dropping a hot piece of metal on the gas line, they do make flexible metal pipe that can go over it. However in over 15 years using gassers that has never been a problem for me so I don't armour the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 My gas shut off is at the end of my gas tube. (Basically, at the burner) only gets hot if I leave the burner in the forge after shut off (chimney affect) So, I made my burner attachment to simply telescope into the forge via a close fitting collar. When I shut it down, I can simply slide the burner out. The burner is cool to the touch except the very end that sits in the forge. I.E. the business end ;) This is academic on a multi-burner forge as it probably isn't practical to remove all the burners on shut down or even remove the ones not in use, but both my forges are single burner and share the same gas tube (Not at the same time of course). I know this might not seem practical to some, even on a single burner, but it works for me quite well as I have to stow the forge in a place that makes leaving the burner attached impractical (I would post a pic but that doesn't seem to be allowed currently) :( Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Said before, get a regulator. Makes adjusting the gas pressure to tune the burner a breeze. I get worried about gas leaks and before I start with the gas forge, I open the tank valve with the ball valve at the burner closed, and I keep a little squirt bottle of diluted dish soap on hand, to put a little squirt on all the connections between the tank and the burner. With pressure on the system, any leaks will show up as a little wreath of bubbles around the fitting. I do the same with the fittings past the ball valve, though I'm pretty sure the gas pressure at the cap on the lamp tube is minimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I put the 1/4 turn ball valves back from the forge so I can shut a burner down if something goes wrong and it's engulfed in flame. Yes, it's happened a couple times, the one that rally sands out in my memory was the time an "experienced" smith who was visiting wadded up a piece of paper and put it in the air intake of the burner. The gasser I use now is a multiple burner forge, the rubber hose runs between the regulator at the tank to a pipe manifold and through 1/8" copper tubing to the burners. The 1/4 turn ball valves are at the manifold. The rubber hose is about 18" from the forge shell at it's closest and I don't care if the copper lines, fittings or burners get hot. If A copper tube melts outside the forge, I have bigger problems. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Said before, get a regulator. Makes adjusting the gas pressure to tune the burner a breeze. I get worried about gas leaks and before I start with the gas forge, I open the tank valve with the ball valve at the burner closed, and I keep a little squirt bottle of diluted dish soap on hand, to put a little squirt on all the connections between the tank and the burner. With pressure on the system, any leaks will show up as a little wreath of bubbles around the fitting. I do the same with the fittings past the ball valve, though I'm pretty sure the gas pressure at the cap on the lamp tube is minimal. Don't do the same soap trick to test for leaks on a high pressure cylinder or system, especially oxygen. …plain water or the commercial leak testing products only... Alan According to CGA guidance and industry standards, using soap and water solutions to leak test are not recommended and may even prove dangerous. Soap contains animal fats (lard) which burns easily and explosively in oxygen. Synthetic soap such as dish washing soap (Dawn, Joy, etc.) contain petroleum (oil). Some soaps contain both. These solutions leave residues on the valve which, when they come in contact with high pressure oxygen, can ignite and cause a fire. Additionally, these residues can contain ammonia and may corrode or otherwise damage the valve, rendering the valve unuseable. British Oxygen Company:- oil based solutions, or those containing fatty acids, can ignite if they come in contact with oxygen. For this reason soapy water or washing up liquid must not be used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NathanSmith Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 WoW! Thank you all for the advice. The wealth of knowledge here shows my that I'm in the right place. You all have made me feel safer, just to do something as simple as getting a good regulator. Going to get a copper manifold done as well. Cheers mates! When ya in Oz next Ill buy you a carton of beer :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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