Yes you are right other solution is to use concrete and lift shop a bit, i don't know i will see what i can do, and yes of course other too is to cut stump a little bit, but i will be moving shop so i don't se reason for that.

 

First thing is to find the proper height for the anvil.  Start with the anvil face where the break of the wrist meets the arm.  Put a piece of wood on the anvil face and hit it 3 times with your hammer.  If there is a crescent moon at 12 o'clock the anvil is too low,  it the crescent is at 6 o'clock, the anvil is too high.  You are looking for a round impression where the hammer hits the wood.

If the anvil is too high, stand on a pallet, a 2x4 or other wood to raise the height of the blacksmith.  Hit the wood on the anvil face again until you get the nice round impression.  You may need a pallet and some additional wood, you will have to experiment until you get it right.

Use that height for the anvil face for a while to see if you like it and if it needs small adjustments.

Measure the distance (height) from the bottom of your feet to the face of the anvil.  Write it down so you will have it when needed.

This distance (height) may change as the thickness of the metal you are working with changes.  Thin tin and sheet metal will be different from 2 inch thick stock.  You may be surprised that the same distance (height) can be used for one inch thick stock or less, as you adapt to that small of metal thickness.

Be careful when working on a platform as you are not used to the taller position and moving up and down can create a trip hazard.

Once you have the height you like, you can use that height as a reference for the anvil face for other anvils.  It is always putting you at the correct height for swinging your hammer.

thank god for this forum! this wil save so mutch time bilding a beginer shop

Good morning all.  A little late to the party, I realize.   But I wanted to offer a slightly different take that I didn't see mentioned yet.

Because I work alone, my main working anvil height is such that when holding my work piece between my legs, the piece lies flat on the anvil face.  It just so happens that my body proportions also make this the right height for the flat hammer blows as mentioned above.  This could be a natural thing, or it could be that it was close enough that I was able to adjust to this over the past 15+ years of smithing. 

As an ex-physical therapist who focused on body mechanics, my take on the back pain some experience is that while it could be from incorrect anvil height, it could also be from improper postures/body mechanics with the correct anvil height.  

Same for me Billy, the height is close enough to adjust without noticing. The only issue with holding the stock between my legs is it puts me too close for a full power blow unless Its a long piece. 

Yes, posture and ergonomics of working at the anvil IS the source of backaches, not counting folks who strain themselves lifting and moving heavy stuff and that's largely posture too.

You can't use good posture and strike a uniform blow if the anvil is too low. You must either bend over or bend your knees to keep the hammer from toeing into the stock. By toeing or healing, the toe of the hammer face is away from you and the heal is closest. Rolling right or left is improper grip.

Frosty The Lucky.

40 minutes ago, billyO said:

an ex-physical therapist who focused on body mechanics

It really is amazing the extent to which improper alignment or technique in one part of the body can have negative impacts elsewhere.