John Martin Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Below is an image and a link to my smithy pictures. It's not much, but it's home and it works.http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5021&cat=&size=medium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Do you use the axe as a hot cut by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 Exactly. Works like a charm, I'm gonna try making a hardie this weekend for hot and cold cutting. The head weight helps cut through the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 I have a feeling that most modern factory made heads are tempered all over, so the poll would be hard too. Be careful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 What do you mean poll hard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 He means the back, hammer like face, of the axe. It may chip dangerously as any hammer on hammer action might. If you remove the handle you can shine up then heat the pol of the axe head. Let the color run to purple blue and quench in water. Take it easy on your vise, it isn't an anvil, it just looks kind of like one. They're cast iron and will not stand much hammering at all. If you have a store of RR spikes you can make all kinds of useful stakes and use the track plate as a holder. You'll need to upset a shoulder so they stop on the plate. That's a good thing, every smith needs to learn why it's called "Upsetting," the sooner the better. All in all it looks like a decent set up to start. Good for you Brother-M Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mithral Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 A splitting maul makes a decent cold-cut as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 1, 2007 Author Share Posted November 1, 2007 I don't understand the upsetting thing frosty, please explain. I only use the vise for the horn to bend with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easilyconfused Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 I'd suggest looking through the blueprints and maybe borrowing a book on blacksmithing from the library. There are lots of beginner books that will teach you the different techniques and their common names. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 Okay, will check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinD Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Several books free to download at this link.Ocmulgee Blacksmith Guild :: Links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing > Reference material LB0008 Reference material LB0008.0001 Reference material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 I don't understand the upsetting thing frosty, please explain. I only use the vise for the horn to bend with. Upsetting is driving the iron back into itself to make it thicker and it's probably the hardest smithing process to do well. Hence upsetting is upsetting. (to the smith) :mad: Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 Amen!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRon_FOrgerI22 Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Thats so funny i have the same exact anvil. One question does it work pretty well since i have never used it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 Lol, it's upsetting to the smith. I like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Yeah. . . Wait till you try it Brother M. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 I tried it, and my pieces kept bending, but i did push some of it back into itself. Either way, it was a loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 I am currently making some tools for putting pipe under sidewalks. I am using 1" sucker rod and upsetting 6" to 1 1/8" on one end and 1 1/2" to 2" on the other. I have tried welding up what I want but by the time I grind it back and I find it is just as fast and far more gratifying to do the upsetting. I does try your patience though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I tried it, and my pieces kept bending, but i did push some of it back into itself. Either way, it was a loss. Upsetting, isn't it? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 Yes, I got so mad that I clamped it onto my makeshift anvil and took a 4lb hand sledge to it as hard as I could I ended up with a really bent up 7/16 6 in long piece of metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 When upsetting keep the length of the upset area to about 3 times the thinnest place in the area. If you are upsetting 1x 3/16 material then the length to try to upset would be 3*3/16=9/16 about a half to 3/4s inch at a time. When it thickens up you would be able to take a larger bite. use water to isolate the area to be upset. strike heavy well placed blows. It requires a lot more finesse than drawing out does. It is good to see you are hammering and moving forward. Keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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