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Hey guys. Looking at buying a set of cheap letter/number stamps from harbor freight. I see I have 2 options. Use them on annealed metal, or use while hot. Which do you think would have them last longer? Also and this isn't necessarily the right forum, but what kind of coating or wrap can I use to do lettering with etching? I just need to do some acid resistant wrap I can cut out what I need out and apply it. Any advice on that?

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The HF sets will work OK for light, occasional use on annealed steels. Don't know how long they, or any properly heat treated quality stamp set or touch mark would hold up on hot steel. I think that you would draw the temper pretty quick.

 

I am sure that the answers that you need for etchings and resists could be better found in the knifemaking section.

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Letter stamps are likely to last longer stamping hot metal than cold ... keeping the stamp temperature below 350 degrees to avoid further tempering would be be advisable.

For etched letters, touch marks etc I would recommend a stencil based electric etch process rather than a do-it-yourself process. There ar many sources of information and suggestions on the knife making web sites. (as well as advice for the DIY processes.)

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getting the stamps hot would ruin them quickly

an etch resist can be painted on, depends on what you are etching with what acid, you can also do photo resist by painting on a light sensitive coating and then covering it with a clear film with your design on and exposing it to UV like PCBs are done

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I think there's a difference in getting a hardened stamp "hot" to where it will reduce the hardness, and using a cold stamp quickly on hot metal. I have a large stamp with a lot of surface area, and for results I like best, I stamp at just the right color heat. A quality stamp which has held up fine thus far with a couple hundred stampings.....

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If I can minimize contact time I was thinking it would last ok. Stainless seems like it would last really well because is still so firm when heated. I got a piece of stainless barstock one time and decided from then on I'm more of a medium alloy/carbon steel guy. I wonder how much a machine shop would charge me for a stainless touchmark.

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Posted · Hidden July 31, 2014 - multipost
Hidden July 31, 2014 - multipost

If I can minimize contact time I was thinking it would last ok. Stainless seems like it would last really well because is still so firm when heated. I got a piece of stainless barstock one time and decided from then on I'm more of a medium alloy/carbon steel guy. I wonder how much a machine shop would charge me for a stainless touchmark.

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Posted · Hidden July 31, 2014 - multipost
Hidden July 31, 2014 - multipost

If I can minimize contact time I was thinking it would last ok. Stainless seems like it would last really well because is still so firm when heated. I got a piece of stainless barstock one time and decided from then on I'm more of a medium alloy/carbon steel guy. I wonder how much a machine shop would charge me for a stainless touchmark.

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In my experience with letter punches, I've run through a number of them when using cold they hold up for a while (thus Mr McPherson's light and occasional comments).  I've used them on hot metal many more times.   I'd suggest not dilly-dallying with the punch on the hot metal, but quick use should allow for sufficient cooling to avoid ruining the temper.

 

BTW - Black Frog, I was wondering how hot your metal has to be for that stamp.  My last one was large, but not as detailed as yours and had to make sure I was at least red to get a good stamp.  (full disclosure....a former FIB if that means anything to you ;) )

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For those unaware, FIB is a loving term us Cheeseheads use for those unfortunate enough to come from, or be located in, Illinois.
Friendly Illinois Bretheren? ;)

For a stamp as large as the one I had made of the frog skeleton (9/16" high), and with that much internal detail and surface area I found that if the metal is too hot it doesn't leave as sharp and defined impressions as I like. If the metal is too cold it doesn't get the impression deep enough as I like. I'll take the piece to be stamped out of the forge hotter than needed so as it cools I can catch the right amount of color for stamping that touchmark. Not a lot of color, but not black heat either.  And it does take a decent whack with my forging hammer to get it right.  Regular letter character stamping (like names or dates) I do at a black heat or colder....

post-25745-0-35012300-1406812719_thumb.j

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