Scrambler82 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Purchased a 45kg/100 lb. Vulcan Anvil. Looks good and great size for the newbie. Needs the blue removed and then I can see what is underneath. Read about electrolysis for cleaning, interesting. For a Stand, I will be making one similar to Daniel.85's 2x12 stand, a great design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Paint remover should work fine. Work outdoor with rubber gloves and goggles. Use are directed. Then wire wheel the anvil with an offhand grinder and wire wheel. Do not go crazy with it. When finished, apply some kind of surface oil to protect from rust(like boiled linseed oil). This Vulcan is in great shape. Just be careful on the edges. They are know for chipping. Only hammer 'hot' metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrambler82 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Checked out the Hardie Hole. Measure 3/4" with a chamfered top edge, minimal chamfer but it is there. Hole doesn't look clean or straight all the way through. Any ideas on straightening and cleaning up, I was thinking a small head hand grinder inside the hole but not sure how to square up the corners of it is necessary. Should the hole be the same size all the way through ? Didn't look at the Pritchett (sp) Hole, funny tend to be single minded, but thinking it must be the same... not clean all the way; can a drill be used to clean it up ? Thks for any info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 That blue paint has protected the anvil from the time it was applied clear up to the time you bought the anvil. As to the prichel hole, why not wait until you use it before you do something to remove metal. I would suggest that you use the anvil as is for 6 months to a year before making any changes or modifications to it. You need to know what the anvil can do, as is, before you do anything that can not be undone later. If in a years time you actually USE the prichel hole, you will know what to do to change to make it to work for you. If you never use it, then why worry. If you remove the patina on an anvil that took 100 years to achieve, you will NOT be able to replace it in YOUR life time. Paint is much the same. Is there a reason to remove the paint? How are you going to apply a new finish that will be as good as or better than what is there now? And how many paint have you known that actually live up to their rated life expectancy? IF it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrambler82 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Glenn, The paint looks like it was put on by the seller for the anvil to look good. I don't believe it is original. Was thinking just stripping the paint with either a wire brush or some light duty paint stripper, still up on the air on it. Just want no paint... just me. Ok on the pritchel hole and the spelling, what about the Hardie Hole, anything to look for or any special way to approach the reworking of it. I was thinking attempting to measure the depth of the straightest part, then determine what the acceptable length of the shank of the tool should be. If what I have is acceptable, thinking maybe I should cut the tools accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrous Beuler Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 That Vulcan looks like it has never been used, very sharp all over. Heck, leave the paint. It isn't on the work surfaces anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Nice looking Vulcan. Paint doesn't do anything for or to the function of an anvil, lots came from the factory or vendor painted. You can true up the hardy hole with files if you really need to, cast bodies often didn't have clean cores to make clean hardy holes. A little chamfer is good, sharp corners are more vulnerable to chipping, sort of sloppy self chamfering. If the prichel isn't large enough use a bolster plate, trying to enlarge the one in the anvil isn't going to be easy nor much improvement. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 As it's a vulcan it should be easy to file the hardy and you do NOT want to do heavy work out at the pritchel!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrambler82 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Thks for the info. This Vulcan Anvil came from a Pawn Shop. Was thinking it was in someone's estate that got pawned, maybe a hide away and was never used. Looks good and hoping for the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrambler82 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Back to ID'g this Anvil. There is a "10" under the horn which I have read indicates it is 100 lb unit. Under the heel is what I am having trouble with, the casted numbers are hard to read, paint and other thing are muting the characters. It appears to be a 61, a 6?, not sure, a sixty something. Is there a special way to clean up cast in numbering or emblems ? The rest of the anvil is in great condition but the area with the date and the emblem is muted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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