Just got hold of these and I was wondering what would be the best way of putting a point on them



They are just over 1m long and 150mm in diameter, worn out breaker points from a quarry a mate works at.

I'm actually going to donate them to the Artist Blacksmith Association of South Australia for use as permanently mounted outside anvils. By the time they are concreted in I don't think anyone will be able to put them in their back pocket and walk away with them.

Andrew

I saw a video of someone forging this once. they heated it with an oxypropane torch and with 6 guys beat it into the shape of an anvil horn (bick for you britspeakers) with 18# sledges. they made short work of it.

I guess you're not close enough to Moony or Forgemaster? They have hammers that can do that.

It will Take a bit of BEER and a trip to MOONYS  should do it LOL

should be no prob there :)

why not just mount them into concrete and use them as post anvils?

I'd  love to have one of those for an anvil.  Hand-hammering, even with strikers, would be a job of work!

 

Personally, I'd stand them upright in a bit of cement and use them as-is.  They are awesome post anvil and will allow the students to do just about anything they could imagine. 

 ye    they make a ok post anvil ,   i rather re point them an send them back to work ,  and re point them again in a few moths  , and over again  you get about 180 dollars to re point eazy money 

You can do them fairly sucessfully with a 5cwt massey, we used to.  Now we use a 450 ton press and a manipulator, 5 pushes with the press with a set of taper tools, cut the chisel blade right on the end with the oxy and put it on the ground, next day you grind them up and heat treat them.  99% of these moils will be as chisels, not a lot are sharpened as points.

When new these moils will cost about $3500.00 or more each.  Big bucks for a piece of steel with a chisel on one end and some machined flats on the other.

 

Phil

If their days are truly over as breakers, then, as others have already said, plant them just as they are.

 

That spherical profile ought to really move the metal!

 

I have a post anvil about 76 mm in diameter with a flat profile on top.  My Idea is to make close-fitting Drop-On Sleeved Bicks for it. as long as the sleeve is not too loose or too thin-walled, there should be a good transfer of energy into the post,

 

I wonder If I should forge out the eye of one of my pickaxe heads? (Actually, I already have one picked out)

 

Your Association could store the slip-ons indoors, so no worries about walk-aways.